I’ve been reading about overclocking Liteon drives, from Z-CLV to P-CAV, but what will be the improvements?

Will P-CAV produce higher quality CDs as there’s no need to utilise the BurnProof when it changes speed?

As far as i know the P-CAV is faster than the Z-CLV. May be about 3.5x faster


P-CAV is faster, but since the writer must cope with a constantly inceasing writing speed and therefore continuously adjust laser power a.s.o, its very difficult to implement.

LiteOn really made it and can produce very good cds with P-CAV,
but they are not better than their z-clv-cds yet, the only exception is taiyo yuden, where even zs0d-firmware makes better cds than in Z-CLV-mode.

what, a taiyo yuden cd writer or media?


better with pcav? wonder why…

I think the higher angular velocity at the point where the Z-CLV-version switches to 40x (i think @53min) causes serious trouble.
The p-cav writer reaches 40x only at about 70min.

Tests at www.cdrinfo.com showed a c1-error rate of 1.7 for 40x z-clv and 0.2 for 40x p-cav, with 24x certified taiyo yuden media (btw: no other drives they tested ever made it below 0.2).

I have this drive for review now and I could say that in most cases Z-CLV produces better discs.

The only two discs that works better with P-CAV is Prodisc and Taiyo Yuden so far.

I have a lite-on 40125s.

Should I or should I not upgrade to zs0a unoffical firmware.

Cans omeonepoint me to a good faq regarding z-clv p-cav. I’m confused.

Basicily i’m backing up PSX and making SVCDS.

> Should I or should I not upgrade to zs0a unoffical firmware

There is no unofficial zs0a.
You’re speaking of unofficial zs0g…

It’s simple: If you can get some Taiyo Yuden discs at a reasonable price, then upgrade to zs0g.

But Prodisc is interesting: I made c2-errors with Prodisc and zs0g…

Maybe I should be starting with the newbie forum.

I’m not familiar with Taiyo Yuden Discs, or Pro Disc. I’m assumin you are talking about different types of media.

I know factory made cd’s use a press or stamp of sort and the laser bounces of the bumps. I know with CDR they burn a layer of dye and the lazer then reflects differntly on it.

Whre I am getting on all this in my questions is, I have burnt out a lazer eye on my ps2, the guy at the factory was very matter of fact that the laser has to turn up the intesity to make it through the dye on the cdr.

This is why I am asking about firmware upgrades, will this help burn a better cd. And is there cd’s that use a more subtle or near white dye that wont require the laser to burn so bright and burn out.

Also on this firmware upgrade, I’m curious because they always do non iso-standard things to these cd’s and my ultimate goal is to not only have “the latest greatest thing” but have a good drive and frimware that can adapt to these non standard writes “dilberately written errors” etc.

When I was I kid we had APPLE ][ computers and commodore 64’s. We used to have these “NIBBLE COPIERS” that litteraly took a tracks byte by byte rather than sector by sector. Do those exists for cdr? Probably a whole bunch of question for a bunch of different forums. I’m new to this, please indulge me with your patience and any information you may have!

Best Regards,
Portland, Oregon