Yep, they just dont make them like they used to

After many years of procrastination, I finally decided to clean my cupboard. I came accross my old CD wallet. Opening it was like going down nostalgia lane.

I came accross an OLD Kodak CD. I recall buying it 9 years ago on the sunny streets of Dubai for 200 dirhams (55$)… it was filled with pirated software.

Just for the sake of it, I decided to test the CD in my brand new LiteOnSOHR 5238s, I was expecting the CD to be unreadbale. So, I was a bit surprised when the Autorun worked… nevertheless, the results of Kprobe simply stunned me.

Shame… shame shame … those brand new Plasmon and Imation CDs I burned the other day had more errors, the Plasmons had nearly a 100 C2 errors too.
heck! even some of the Taiyo Yuden’s I have in collection dont give such good results, and they are hardly a year old.

Sad. Sad… I dont get it, if we had the technology to make such fantastically durable CDs 9 years ago; why cant we make the same now. Or are CD manufacturers taking the easy route? (i.e. low costs, mass produce… crap)
And worst of all, Kodak isnt even making CDs anymore.

You’re right. I almost threw out 170 blank Kodak CDR’s that I had laying around in favour of newer, faster, higher capacity CDRs, but then last minute, salvaged them out of the garbage. I tested them at 32X, (rated at 8x) and they burned with no problems, so I will keep my 170 Kodaks. I’ll pass on the new mass produced dogs that are out there. :bigsmile:

LOL :smiley:

I’ve still got like 300 assorted Kodak CD-Rs, new and sealed. I have the Gold Ultimas (matte gold, white inkjet, and gold branded), Ultima 74s (silver branded), an unopened Ultima 74 12x silver matte 100-pack spindle, Ultima 80s that are rated at 24x (silver branded), several 10-packs of Kodak 74min shiny CD-RWs (made by Mitsubishi), Digital Audio Gold 74s, and even oldies such as the Digital Science and Digital Science Audio 74s!


Let me join you proud owners of the last batches of Kodak CD-Rs. I bought 6 spindles online during their last sale a few years ago. They were $15 instead of $39 or $49 i think. I only burn my best edided tiffs and photoshop projects that are a few hundred megs each on these. Or any other rare stuff i might come across. I usually burn a Fuji (Taiyo) and a Kodak Ultima (12x) of something that i really want to keep…

I just hope Taiyo will not dissapoint in DVD-r/+r since i am mainly using them for DVD backups. Still using a plextor for the CD-rs.

Good night all

whats up with your scan i see a big block of C2 errors? why arnt they reporting? and i have some recent riteks and they have a 10th of the C1 errors you have, and no c2s. So id say quality is still there just have to be more careful of what you buy.

Those green lines are not C2 errors… C2 errors are shown in red. I dunno what those green lines represent.

They are “read errors”, either caused by PUH slippage or by unreadable sectors. I’d suggest doing a CDSpeed Scandisc test on this disc to confirm possible reading problems.

Good idea.

Well, ignoring that last bit at the end I’d say the CD is nearly perfect.

BTW, actually thats kinda weird. I surface scanned like 5 CDs and they all gave me unreadable error on the very last segment (similar to the above picture). Any ideas why is that?

heres a ritek i bought 6 months ago and burned then…id say quality on cds is still very good :wink:

I wonder, though, if that’s a function of the reader… I tend to get a lower error count when scanning CDs with my DVD burner than with my combo. But in either case, the errors are so low that I find them hard to believe! Maybe it’s because I use TYs and they burn nicely with Liteys… but, well, as I said, they seem a bit too low sometimes. I wish I had a LiteOn CD burner to check with, as I heard that the DVD drives report fewer errors.

the 812 always has low error rates because its such a good reader but that scan is consistent with my liteon 4816h dvd combo rom drive too. i have a 523252 liteon at home ill scan one of these when i get home and see what it says.

The red sector at the end of a Scandisc scan is due to an open disc.

You are forgetting a few things. I paid over US$100 per disk in 92. Not 92 cents… And they burnt @ 1X barely… Lost 5 disks for each burn unless you had a dedicated cd burner. What is even more surprising is my original pinnacle ricoh burner (scsi) still works. Or at least it comes up and burns a few mins just fine. Paid over $1500 at JDR on a fire sale because it was an open box. No burn proof and such nonsence… Remember, those special stuff they do now for high speed burns create a lot of errors on the disk which should not be noticable by the reader. The Disks burnt then still seems to work fine too. Even have some cheap ones from a few year later and those still work as well. On a few of them, the top enamel has come off and they look transparent, but seems to read fine on many readers.

I thought those were the bad days when things took an entire day to burn 1 single good cd. That is until I just got a DVD burner, the liteon 812S… The good old days… They were great… I wish things were only as bad as then.