Will HTL discs last as longer as LTH if I keep them away from sunlight/UV light?


A lot of my earlier backups were made on HTL because 1) I didn’t know the difference back then and 2) I got dozens of discs for free (verbatim).


HTL should always last longer than LTH. The LTH discs were invented to be cheaper than HTL only, and are like DVD-Rs and CD-Rs based on organic dye recording layer. Studies which compared HTL and LTH discs found LTH discs of worse quality and degrading faster than HTL. LTH discs also have compatibility issues, 'cause older drives won’t have firmware support for LTH discs.


Hope my LTH will last longer than my HTL-Ritek :rolleyes:


Oops, sorry. Forgot to mention to stay away from RiCrap. My bad. :smiley:



Should be mentioned because Ritek is to get everywhere and with many brand names


Why Ritek is a bad manufacturer?, please give an explanation, solid arguments are welcome :wink:

Kind regards


Hope this is solid enough …


One thing is for certain: They will last the coming years, but if you want to feel safer, have another redundant backup.

Optical discs never fail unexpectedly, and thanks to error scanning (not available in all optical drives, unfortunately), traces of data loss can be predicted a long time before actual data gets loss (sufficient damage to beat error correction).

We still have CDs that are - I guess - more than 15 years old, with perfect readability to date.

My RiTech DVDs are actually very, very reliable.
Not sure about their BluRay discs.


Thanks for your answer mate, but it’s not solid enough for me :wink:

  1. I don’t fully understand the images you post, but I get the most important. Burning at 6X is not the best way . . .

  2. As I told in a different post, it’s important to pay attention to the brand and manufacturer of a disc, same brand can use different manufacturers, and same manufacturer can produce different quality for different brands. Let me explain it with an example:

BRAND: Mediarange (MR508)
MANUFACTURER: Mitsubishi Kagaku Media
EAN: 4260057128980
SPINDLE: 25 discs

BRAND: Verbatim
MANUFACTURER: Mitsubishi Kagaku Media
SPINDLE: 20 discs

Possible writing speeds:

LG BHN16NS40 -> 4x, 6X, 8X (both) , burning Mediarange you nearly always get a coaster, burning Verbatim nearly always is successful (burning both at 4X, that is minimum speed available)

Pioneer BDR-209DBK -> 2X, 4X, 6X, 8X (both) , burning Mediarange usually is successful at 2X if we try 4X you get a coaster for sure, burning Verbatim at 2X or 4X is nearly always successful

I always verify what I burn

Apparently both discs are the same, different brand but same manufacturer and MID, but obviously are not the same quality, Mediarange process of production must be different . . .

So, it’s no the same Kentucky Fried Chicken than three fuckin’ in the kitchen ROFL

Kind regards


It is true that different brands offer different quality media even if they buy it from the same manufacturer. In this case Media Range bought some 2nd or 3rd class VERBAT-IMf-000 that didn’t quite fit the Verbatim current standards for quality and CMC magentics found way to get rid of them. Nothing new in the industry.

Early batches of Ritek BD-R have really bad track record of being fully unreadable in very short period of 1 to 2 years. I’ve read somewhere that they corrected their manufacturing process and degradation is no longer a problem. Here we return to the previous problem: different brands offer different quality media. We never can be sure if we are buying the freshly manufactured stuff or we are buying the old problematic stock that some brands got it for very low price. For now Ritek BD-R is a gamble that can cost you time and money (and lost data). I won’t experiment with their BD if I don’t own drive that can offer quality control/scanning and I don’t have time to do quality checks every 3-6 months.

Verifying is not a guarantee for good burn that will last for years - it just confirms that the data is there and it is readable in that given moment. If you do another verification month later and it fails it is already too late. The biggest strength/advantage of the optical media is the possibility to do degradation inspection (the diagrams Tester 1 (and everyone else) is uploading). No other storage media can give you such information.

As TL7 mentioned Ritek DVD are very good especially those made with Fujifilm dye (Ritek F1 and F16). I have burned 100s of them in the last 10 years and I never had problem with degradation.


For me it´s sold enough :bigsmile:

Every scan of me shows the brand-name and mediacode

I scan em after burning and after 2,5-3,5 years. You can see the degradation. From OK-good it get to unreadable; even the good error-correction of BD will not help after some years.

Other media also degrade, but are much more reliable than Ritek.

I verify also every burn and scan em because it´s always possible to get a bad blank media or the burner have a bad day :wink:

It´s a shame for Ritek to produce those crap, I still have very good DVD and CD-media from Ritek, but the BD-R are awful.

Not to mention RITEKBO1 LTH-media, I don´t had one successful burn with my large list of BD-writers…


Important data I store always on more than one medium :wink:

I have many burned discs, to re-scan all after 1-2 years costs to much time. My RITEKBR2/3 will not last 5 years, that´s sure


Surprisingly, all my CD-R’s easily passed 10 years.


I can say something similar, I tested a couple of CDs burnt thirteen (13) years ago with ‘VSO Inspector’ and they were still readable, hard to read some sectors but it was succesful after several retries. Even more, the brands of these CDs are not well known ones.

I don’t know RITEK in other brands, but at least for me it’s hard to believe that PRIMEON ones are bad quality. However I can’t prove it, anybody is able to prove they are good or bad?

Kind regards

PS: Thanks for your advice @Tester_1, I’m aware of that :wink:


I have CD-R-media since 2000, most of them is still readable, my Verbatim Metal Azo 12x are mostly in best condition.

Bad experience I have with unlabled media from “BurnMe” and some Ritek-made Cyanine-media. Media with pure silver on the lable-surface were mostly problematic. Media with same ATIP which have a better coating works much better than the blank ones.

Ritek with Phthalocyanin were good


My first CD-R media were written around 2000 too and they still work fine. I had however some discs (of well known brands) that failed after a few years of storing.