A lot of my earlier backups were made on HTL because 1) I didn’t know the difference back then and 2) I got dozens of discs for free (verbatim).
HTL should always last longer than LTH. The LTH discs were invented to be cheaper than HTL only, and are like DVD-Rs and CD-Rs based on organic dye recording layer. Studies which compared HTL and LTH discs found LTH discs of worse quality and degrading faster than HTL. LTH discs also have compatibility issues, 'cause older drives won’t have firmware support for LTH discs.
Hope my LTH will last longer than my HTL-Ritek
Oops, sorry. Forgot to mention to stay away from RiCrap. My bad.
Should be mentioned because Ritek is to get everywhere and with many brand names
Why Ritek is a bad manufacturer?, please give an explanation, solid arguments are welcome
Hope this is solid enough …
One thing is for certain: They will last the coming years, but if you want to feel safer, have another redundant backup.
Optical discs never fail unexpectedly, and thanks to error scanning (not available in all optical drives, unfortunately), traces of data loss can be predicted a long time before actual data gets loss (sufficient damage to beat error correction).
We still have CDs that are - I guess - more than 15 years old, with perfect readability to date.
My RiTech DVDs are actually very, very reliable.
Not sure about their BluRay discs.
Thanks for your answer mate, but it’s not solid enough for me
I don’t fully understand the images you post, but I get the most important. Burning at 6X is not the best way . . .
As I told in a different post, it’s important to pay attention to the brand and manufacturer of a disc, same brand can use different manufacturers, and same manufacturer can produce different quality for different brands. Let me explain it with an example:
BRAND: Mediarange (MR508)
MANUFACTURER: Mitsubishi Kagaku Media
CAPACITY: 50 GB
SPINDLE: 25 discs
MANUFACTURER: Mitsubishi Kagaku Media
CAPACITY: 50 GB
SPINDLE: 20 discs
Possible writing speeds:
LG BHN16NS40 -> 4x, 6X, 8X (both) , burning Mediarange you nearly always get a coaster, burning Verbatim nearly always is successful (burning both at 4X, that is minimum speed available)
Pioneer BDR-209DBK -> 2X, 4X, 6X, 8X (both) , burning Mediarange usually is successful at 2X if we try 4X you get a coaster for sure, burning Verbatim at 2X or 4X is nearly always successful
I always verify what I burn
Apparently both discs are the same, different brand but same manufacturer and MID, but obviously are not the same quality, Mediarange process of production must be different . . .
So, it’s no the same Kentucky Fried Chicken than three fuckin’ in the kitchen ROFL
It is true that different brands offer different quality media even if they buy it from the same manufacturer. In this case Media Range bought some 2nd or 3rd class VERBAT-IMf-000 that didn’t quite fit the Verbatim current standards for quality and CMC magentics found way to get rid of them. Nothing new in the industry.
Early batches of Ritek BD-R have really bad track record of being fully unreadable in very short period of 1 to 2 years. I’ve read somewhere that they corrected their manufacturing process and degradation is no longer a problem. Here we return to the previous problem: different brands offer different quality media. We never can be sure if we are buying the freshly manufactured stuff or we are buying the old problematic stock that some brands got it for very low price. For now Ritek BD-R is a gamble that can cost you time and money (and lost data). I won’t experiment with their BD if I don’t own drive that can offer quality control/scanning and I don’t have time to do quality checks every 3-6 months.
Verifying is not a guarantee for good burn that will last for years - it just confirms that the data is there and it is readable in that given moment. If you do another verification month later and it fails it is already too late. The biggest strength/advantage of the optical media is the possibility to do degradation inspection (the diagrams Tester 1 (and everyone else) is uploading). No other storage media can give you such information.
As TL7 mentioned Ritek DVD are very good especially those made with Fujifilm dye (Ritek F1 and F16). I have burned 100s of them in the last 10 years and I never had problem with degradation.
For me it´s sold enough
Every scan of me shows the brand-name and mediacode
I scan em after burning and after 2,5-3,5 years. You can see the degradation. From OK-good it get to unreadable; even the good error-correction of BD will not help after some years.
Other media also degrade, but are much more reliable than Ritek.
I verify also every burn and scan em because it´s always possible to get a bad blank media or the burner have a bad day
It´s a shame for Ritek to produce those crap, I still have very good DVD and CD-media from Ritek, but the BD-R are awful.
Not to mention RITEKBO1 LTH-media, I don´t had one successful burn with my large list of BD-writers…
Important data I store always on more than one medium
I have many burned discs, to re-scan all after 1-2 years costs to much time. My RITEKBR2/3 will not last 5 years, that´s sure
Surprisingly, all my CD-R’s easily passed 10 years.
I can say something similar, I tested a couple of CDs burnt thirteen (13) years ago with ‘VSO Inspector’ and they were still readable, hard to read some sectors but it was succesful after several retries. Even more, the brands of these CDs are not well known ones.
I don’t know RITEK in other brands, but at least for me it’s hard to believe that PRIMEON ones are bad quality. However I can’t prove it, anybody is able to prove they are good or bad?
PS: Thanks for your advice @Tester_1, I’m aware of that
I have CD-R-media since 2000, most of them is still readable, my Verbatim Metal Azo 12x are mostly in best condition.
Bad experience I have with unlabled media from “BurnMe” and some Ritek-made Cyanine-media. Media with pure silver on the lable-surface were mostly problematic. Media with same ATIP which have a better coating works much better than the blank ones.
Ritek with Phthalocyanin were good
My first CD-R media were written around 2000 too and they still work fine. I had however some discs (of well known brands) that failed after a few years of storing.
I had no discs that failed solely due to aging so far.
At home, there is even an audio CD from the 90s, where playback quality is unaffected.
There was just one sudden failure of a DataLife CD-R being perfectly readable one day but the next day suddenly with unreadable file system header for unknown reasons. Zero physical damage. Maybe, the optical drive I put it in supported SmartErase/E-Hammer technology that was triggered by malware, but that is unlikely, yet the only plausible explaination that comes to my mind.
Usually, optical media never suddenly fails out of nowhere.
A HDD could break down prematurely due to a manufacturing error after 500 operation hours. (although I never had HDD failure myself. My father had just one failure.)
I also already had USB flash drives and SD cards with data corruption and damaged FAT32 header and main file table out of nowhere.
But optical discs just keep data. They can be trusted if from a high quality brand.
I´ve had HDDs and SSDs which fail <10 hours
But I also had optical media which burned unreadable or almost unreadable because of quality problems.
Also some CD-Rs from early 2000 which become unreadable after some years.
But my good CD-R-media from 2000 works still fine.
If you check the media after burning and the burn quality is OK you´re right, backup on optical media can be a sure thing for many years.
And WORM-media is read only, which also can be good. Had some HDDs and SSDs which were in best condition, but after plugged again in Windows showed an unformatted status. One time I copied data on external SSD and while copying the PC shows an unplug and after relly unplugged and plugged it again it shows also unformatted status.
Won´t happen with optical media
- What models of HDDs and SSDs were they?
- Which internal defect possibly caused the failure?
My MX300 525GB had thousands of defect sectors after copying some hundred GB on it. A Sandisk X110 were defect after power it off to do a Secure Erase. A Corsair XT become unwritable/uneraseable <100 hours.
A WD3200JB came out of the box with defect sectors (long time ago), 3 of 3 Toshiba 2,5" 250GB (Dunno the type because it was some years ago) failed <100 hours. A Seagate ST1000DM003 also had many defect sectors <100 hours.
That´s the reason why I check every new HDD with a complete read test with HDTune and use h2testw to write it full and read the data back.
All SSDs I also write/read completely full before using it for data
SMART-values will also be checked frequently
Backups will be always done for important data
My experience is: Every HDD/SSD can fail, even some hundred thousands of these drives works good.
A backup will be the best way.