Which DVDRs have better printable coating than Ritek?

I’ve always used Ritek G04 and G05 printables and printed them using my Epson R210 printer (same as R200).

The prints look great but over time they blur badly. I am in Thailand and the humidity is high here.

I always spray the discs with a couple of thin coats of clear acrylic lacquer but they still blur over time.

How does the coating of other discs compare to the Ritek coating. In particular is the Taiyo Yuden or Verbatim coating better. Would I even be able to get away without lacquering the discs?


Probably not, humid climates are not good for discs PERIOD. Keep them tucked away as best as possible when not in use. I would say that Verbatim (MCC) or Taiyo Yuden would be subject to less bubbling.

I’ve always heard that for as great as Taiyo Yuden is, their printing surface is pretty horrible.

Thanks for the replies guys.

I’m not sure what you mean by “bubbling”. Really I’m just looking for discs that exhibit less bleeding/blurring of the ink over time. Some of the text on my design is fine white on a dark background and it almost disappears on the Riteks after a few months.

So would Verbatim’s printable surface be better than Taiyo Yuden?


Well in such high humidities it’s more than likely your printed surface will outlast the disc integrity itself :smiley: particularly Ritek.

Ritek uses a semi gloss, smooth coating it’s slippery to the touch and provides excellent results - HOWEVER those seem to be much more sensitive to light and humidity.

Coatings on other discs are rougher to the touch however they better absorb ink and last longer - with getting used to it and tweaking your printer settings you can get excellent results.

Your EPSON R210 uses a dye based ink, these inks are NOT water proof. If you touch/rub the printed area with wet hands it will smudge off, with any dye based ink regardless of the surface so you can imagine what high humidity can do in time. There are more expensive printers that use pigment based inks, printers like the EPSON R800 which uses durabright inks and provides much better protection. The most expensive solution is to laminate the surface but those units run well over $3500. Before applying the acrylic be sure to let the ink settle and DRY on your surface - 24 to 48 hours should do - you DON’T want to TRAP wet ink / humidity. Keep your discs stored in jewel cases, away from sun light and use a good dehumidifer in your room. Keep relative humidity below 60%, ideally between 40-50.

I use Taiyo Yuden discs and I thought the same at first - it is not as silk smooth as Ritek but it takes used to - it’s not that bad… After a few test prints I have adjusted my software and print settings. My prints come out excellent looking, sure you will notice a slight visible difference in hue between media surfaces, but you can always adjust/compensate this in software.

Eventhough TY and other brands uses a rough print surface, it is much better at absorbing ink and dries better, imo… I’d rather have a lesser print surface but excellent media than premium printing surface on class C media :smiley: