Which drive for burning YUDEN000 T02?

vbimport

#1

Hi everyone;

As avid readers of this forum will know, I’m primarily using Taiyo Yuden 8x DVD+R for home DVD burns, at the moment I am using an NEC/Optiarc 7203A to burn them, because my Sammy started coastering discs and the LG H55N is a @#%&ing useless piece of equipment.

In the mail, however, is a Plextor PX-740A, a rebadged BenQ DW1640, one of which I had to have simply for curiousity and also because I like adding functionality to my rig (hence every USB port, and most PCI slots, and ATA channels are maxed out).

I’ve read that in addition to being a very useful scanner (I’ve seen the Jitter and PO reporting they do on here) they’re also very good burners.
But then again, so is my Optiarc.

In between now and next week when I expect to obtain my new drive, I have a couple of video and photo archiving jobs to attend to, however they’re not time critical and can wait. I’d like to get a rough guesstimate on how both drives handle high quality Taiyo Yuden discs - YUDEN000 T02 DVD+Rs and CDs as well.

Is either drive likely to give me a better burn?


#2

Yuden000 T02 burns well on virtually anything…going all the way back to my old NEC 1300a. You’ll just have to make a few test burns and decide for yourself which works better. Individual burners vary slightly, and just because someone else gets great burns with a particular combination doesn’t guarantee you anything.


#3

Yeah T02’s are drive whores, they’ll take any drive any time.


#4

Even old LiteOns do well with T02. What do you ask for? :stuck_out_tongue:

OK, if you want to enter the hair-splitting area, the lowest jitter with T02 would be achieved with Pioneer burners I guess. Among the burners you cite, I’d use the 1640 with BSLB, SB OFF, even WOPC OFF if the results are consistent.


#5

[QUOTE=cd pirate;2135459]Yeah T02’s are drive whores, they’ll take any drive any time.[/QUOTE]

LOOOOOOOOOL :bigsmile: - hilarious, but true :wink:


#6

[QUOTE=Francksoy;2135519]OK, if you want to enter the hair-splitting area[/quote]Yep, that’s precisely what I want to do :iagree:

Among the burners you cite, I’d use the 1640 with BSLB, SB OFF, even WOPC OFF if the results are consistent.
From reading the BenQ pages, I’m guessing BSLB is a firmware, SB = Solid Burn? and the last acronym (WOPC) I’m afraid you’ll have to enlighten me.


#7

[QUOTE=SeanW;2135532]Yep, that’s precisely what I want to do :iagree:[/quote]OK then. :bigsmile: - then I’d say you should buy a Pioneer burner… :stuck_out_tongue:

From reading the BenQ pages, I’m guessing BSLB is a firmware, SB = Solid Burn?
Correct. :iagree:
and the last acronym (WOPC) I’m afraid you’ll have to enlighten me.
I’ll try. :slight_smile:

The acronym stands for Walking Optimum Power Calibration. All burners have a similar feature, except some LiteOn burners I think. Most manufacturers call it OPC but recent LiteOns call it HyperTuning ( :rolleyes: ). So what is it? Well, it’s the system which performs regular checks and re-adjustments during a burn, so that the laser calibration is better suited to the media being burnt. If all discs of a given MID were 100% consistent with its initial PC parameters (power calibration), OPC wouldn’t be necessary. But this variation is, sadly, a reality, even more so nowadays.

So with most media and burners, OPC makes a great improvement in burning quality. The Pioneer and Nexperia-Benq (1620, 1640, 1650/55) burners are OPC intensive and this shows big time, specially with lower-end or variable media. These burners, in return, have longer burning times since OPC makes the burner stop and resume more often.

In some cases, i.e. with pristine, premium, very consistent media, OPC is not really necessary, and setting it OFF may actually even improve the end burning quality, since each OPC point tends to add some PIF (a very small amount) at this point. So you can lower PIF counts by setting OPC off. That’s what I’m calling hair-splitting, but hey, we’re CDFreaks. :stuck_out_tongue:
Premium T02 is extremely consistent media, so many Benq users (including me) have tried WOPC OFF with T02 with great results. My couple of hall-of-fame T02 burns (PIF total < 5 :eek: ) were performed this way. Don’t expect this bring any real-world improvement, though. :bigsmile:

In most cases, though, setting WOPC OFF is a very bad idea. So you’ll have to check if the burns really look better without it on your T02s. It’s highly probable, but not certain.


#8

Even my old Samsung SH-S182D loves them YUDENS.


#9

[QUOTE=beef barley;2135554]Even my old Samsung SH-S182D loves them YUDENS.[/QUOTE]It’s still a very good burner IMO. :slight_smile:


#10

[QUOTE=Francksoy;2135556]It’s still a very good burner IMO. :)[/QUOTE]

If you burn +R media :cool:, but like that drive more as a reader;).


#11

[QUOTE=vroom;2135559]If you burn +R media :cool:[/quote]Correct, forgot about that :doh: :o

but like that drive more as a reader;).
Yes, the Sammies are really great readers. :bow:


#12

[QUOTE=beef barley;2135554]Even my old Samsung SH-S182D loves them YUDENS.[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Francksoy;2135556]It’s still a very good burner IMO. :)[/QUOTE]

Agree with Franck - still a great drive! I love mine so much I bought a spare :o (and no, my Sammy seems to have escaped the infamous -R problem - I burn -R movie backups on it all the time ;))


#13

[QUOTE=Arachne;2135693]Agree with Franck - still a great drive! I love mine so much I bought a spare :o (and no, my Sammy seems to have escaped the infamous -R problem - I burn -R movie backups on it all the time ;))[/QUOTE]

Mine needed the CDF firmware :wink: but know is transformed into a Philips drive (that doesnt have the -R issue).


#14

[QUOTE=Francksoy;2135519]Among the burners you cite, I’d use the 1640 with BSLB…[/QUOTE]

…or BEFB, the DMA4 equivalent. :bigsmile:

And as far as the settings go, just leave the drive at the defaults. You don’t need to go tweaking things so much when using good media.

As for the Samsung SH-S182D, it probably works better as a firmware updated TS-H652D or SPD2412T.


#15

[QUOTE=negritude;2135760]And as far as the settings go, just leave the drive at the defaults. You don’t need to go tweaking things so much when using good media.[/quote]I certainly agree, but did you notice that SeanW decided to enter the splitting-hair area? :wink:
BTW SB OFF is the default. So only the WOPC off setting is “tweaking”.

I had no idea of the existence of this DMA4 firmware. Where have I been. :doh:


#16

Hehe. My 1640’s had the BEFB firmware on it for ages. Though I can’t say I use the drive much to be honest :eek:

It’s pretty handy though, since when I do use the 1640, it’s in an enclosure :slight_smile:


#17

May I repeat myself? Where have I been. :doh: :doh: (but I don’t have any 1640 left since january 2006…)


#18

I can’t believe there’s something that I knew about, but Francksoy didn’t. Forget about the state of the U.S. economy, this is the real sign that the world is coming to an end. :bigsmile:


#19

[OT][QUOTE=negritude;2135945]I can’t believe there’s something that I knew about, but Francksoy didn’t. [/QUOTE]You’re kidding/teasing, right? :bigsmile: - I learn everyday. And about firmwares, well, I know about only what I actually use. So I’m not a firmware expert in the least. :disagree:
[/OT]


#20

[QUOTE=Francksoy;2135802]May I repeat myself? Where have I been. :doh: :doh: (but I don’t have any 1640 left since january 2006…)[/QUOTE]

Sorry, my remark was more me thinking out loud, since I haven’t pulled the 1640 out for so long. Wasn’t directed at anyone in particular.