What I've learned

Due to this site I now have learned…
Now I have a higher quality with MCC004. Now I know to buy DVD+R so I can bitset to DVD-ROM… so they can play in anything. Now I know I need to burn at 8x not 16x to get better burns. It just adds five more mins to your overall backup time. I know India = bad Taiwan (however you spell it?) = good
I know the font on the top of the package matters. Fancy is good, not as fancy is not as good, but has it batches. (That’s what I got)
I know a little about the CDspeed program, the disc quality part anyway.

Is there anything else I need to know? :eek:

Yep, you’ll almost never go wrong with that combination. :iagree:

I know India = bad Taiwan (however you spell it?) = good
Made in Taiwan seems to be more consistent than Made in India, but the MII Verbatims are still very good most of the time.

Is there anything else I need to know? :eek:
Next on your agenda:

  • What are the Lottery numbers for next week?
  • Where is Jimmy Hoffa?
  • Who killed JFK?
  • Who framed Roger Rabbit?

:smiley:

Taiyo Yuden makes good media too. Just harder to get locally.

Encoders are generally superior to transcoders for reducing the size of your dvds (especially on large dvds)

Golf is the hardest game in the history of the world to master.

Never mess with cats with spiderlike names. Hint: she wears a particularly evil looking hat in her avatar.

Hey! I saw/heard that :bigsmile:

@theplunger - I’d say you’ve pretty much got it licked, except I’ve had rather good luck with my Made in India Verbies :wink:

Edit: Oooh, one more thing: NEC drives make good drives for Transfer Rate Tests IMO (well, the two I’ve used do anyway).

Transfer Rate Tests? Is that the thing I do in CDspeed under the quality tab? What is it?
Also…
What do you mean by this statement?
“Encoders are generally superior to transcoders for reducing the size of your dvds (especially on large dvds)”

Keeping quality along with shoving all the tv episodes I can on a DVD5 is a major issue.
I hate that freezing near the end of a dvd due to over compression. Well I think it’s due to over compression. The DVD’s that do that were made back when I used DVD-R verb’s @ 16x.

Another sucky thing is after I flash my HP (rebadge LG) drive to a GSA-H20L 1.02,
It doesn’t work with CDspeed. Also my Lite-On don’t show me a gitter reading in CDspeed.

With the Benchmark tab open, click the “Run Test” menu, and select “Transfer Rate Test”.

Shows you how well a drive reads a disc (ideally at up to 16x if your drive will read burned media at that speed. LG’s are slower readers AFAIK, LiteOn will read at 16x, but some tend to be too good at reading and miss errors)).

A nice smooth upward curve is what you want. If the drive has trouble reading the disc, you’ll see speed drops. I suggested NEC because the ones I’ve used are a bit picky. :slight_smile:

This is really what you want.

MIS = Made in Singapore
MIJ = Made in Japan

These are questionable

MII = Made in India
MIT = Made in Taiwan

:cool: :cool:

Transcoders like DVDShrink, ReJig and Nero Recode reduce the size of the dvd video in a slightly inferior manner to that of an encoder. An encoder will take into consideration all the parts of the video to be reworked and recalculate it entirely, and if you use variable bit rate encoding, more emphasis will be placed in parts of the video that need it, like action scenes. I use DVDRebuilder combined with Procoder for most of my compression needs in dvds. You can get the free edition of DVDRebuilder and use the HC encoder that is included and have excellent results also. Encoders are much slower to use though, so I usually do reencoding at night when I go to bed. Batch jobs are possible in DVDRebuilder if you want to do several videos overnight.

DVDRebuilder doesn’t break encryption, so you have to do that before using it on commercial dvds.

What format are you using to capture your tv episodes? The freezing problem near the end of your dvds sounds more like a media or burning issue—and you’ve slowed down your burns to deal with that.

I hate that freezing near the end of a dvd due to over compression. Well I think it’s due to over compression. The DVD’s that do that were made back when I used DVD-R verb’s @ 16x.

This could also be the fact that you were burning to close to the edge of the disc. If you find this happening again & you use Dvd Shrink, cut back from 4464 to Custom 4400.

Another sucky thing is after I flash my HP (rebadge LG) drive to a GSA-H20L 1.02,

LGs will not do the Disc Quality scan.

Also my Lite-On don’t show me a gitter reading in CDspeed.

For the LiteON, when you are in Disc Quality, click Advanced & check the box that has Jitter (Dvd).

OK…

Do they have a…

MIS = Made in Singapore
MIJ = Made in Japan

for the verbie DVD+R?

or another affordable dvd brand.

Here’s a scan of a dvd.



Verbatim brand made in Taiwan is good. I sincerely doubt you’ll find MIS Verbatim single layer disks if you live in the US. When I first started burning disks, they were what I used, but they are rare anymore.

I’d choose the Verbatim brand MIT over the Maxell MIJ most of the time, so MIJ isn’t always the way to go. Always exceptions to general rules of thumb.

If you ever see Sony Dvd+R 1X-8X, 50 pack spindles with an octagonal spacer that say made in Japan, snap them up because they will most probably be YUDENT02 (Taiyo Yuden). Made in Singapore is what you want your Verbatim Dvd+R DLs to say.

Remember I did not refer to any brand names. Just got to know what you are looking for.

:cool: :cool: