I have Philips, hp, fuji media, all seem to work well, and are dvd- which seem to work in most dvd players. The + dvd media do not seem to work in a lot of players. I also bought windata media and it did not work in some burners. I have read some of the posts and now am concerned that the media works fine now but what happens in a year or two will they still play. What cdr media works well with backing up computer software is + or - better.
Personally, I don’t care about the format (+ can be booktyped to DVD-ROM, i.e. appear like a pressed DVD). What matters is the quality of the product. I buy Verbatim 16x and Taiyo Yudens only now, as I consider them to be two of the best availible.
Verbatim, Taiyo Yuden, some brands of MBI media work well for me also (TDK and Imation).
Edit: guess I’d better mention proper, Made in Japan Maxells, too
MIJ Sony should be at least acceptable quality too.
In general almost any MIJ media on the market should be good.
Fuji Made in Japan could be TY so that’s always a good choice.
Taiyo YudenTaiyo YudenTaiyo YudenTaiyo YudenTaiyo YudenTaiyo YudenTaiyo YudenTaiyo YudenTaiyo YudenTaiyo YudenTaiyo YudenTaiyo YudenTaiyo YudenTaiyo YudenTaiyo YudenTaiyo YudenTaiyo Yuden
sorry I just could not stop myself
Oh i see you’ve catched the Yuden virus, but i haven’t seen anything today in my morning newspapers.
This seems to have been missed by replies. CD-Rs only come in one format CD-R there is no CD+R. Therefore some clarification please are you talking about DVDs, CDs or both?
Where DVDs are concerned some players are just plain picky and some will play anything, some will recognise booktype -ROMs and some won’t. It’s trial and error or looking on videohlp to see if they have info on the players in question.
Longevity is multifacited and includes a number of things, a good initial burn reliant on firmware, disc and drive combination, storage, and handling.
As to the “Windata” dvds not much use to us we need the MID code for the discs to see what they are reporting themselves as.
thanks for all your posts. how do I find the MID code. CD’s only come in minus a slip on my part. To my other question do the dvd’s become unreadable after a year or two.
You need to use software like Nero CD/DVD Speed http://club.cdfreaks.com/showthread.php?t=96285
As I said longevity is reliant on many things and so no one can actually give you a definative answer to that one. Good quality discs stored correctly should last a long time.
Not missed, but a bit of assumption on my part - I assumed the CD-R part was a typo, with the mention of + and - in the same post.
What do you think of RiDATA DVDs, are they good/bad? What DVD do you recommmend.
I would recommend Taiyo Yuden discs, Verbatim (except the Pearl Whites)…I’d say Made in Japan Maxell discs too, but you have to look really hard to find them and make sure they’re MIJ. Made in India (Moser Baer) TDK discs have been good for my LG burners, too.
And you know my opinion of the discs you mentioned. Beware.
What is the worst that could happen with a DVD messing up?
This isnt a sarcastic or rheotical question.
Not saying your RiDATA discs will end up the same way, but some Ritek G05 discs (for example), have burned beautifully, then been completely unreadable in months, or even weeks in some cases.
As I say, your RiDATA discs could be fine, who knows…I’m just wary.
Are Datawrite Titanium 8x DVD-r’s any good? Could you post me some scans to see if they are good or bad discs.
Try to insert “Datawrite Titanium” in search function: there are many and many threads already posted regarding these media
Ritek have had problems with quality and as Arachne said basically you could loose everything you put on a RiData disc (this is a Ritek branded disc).
I don’t have any, there is just a good deal if I get them, is there a place where I can get them cheap?
I would recommend Verbatim 16x and Taiyo Yuden. It isn’t worth risking Ritek DVD’s as you may end up with a bad batch.