VERY fussy home DVD Player - Should I be bothered?

In our lounge we have a Toshiba SD150E DVD player.

The thing is, it’s INCREDIBLY fussy when it comes to reading DVD’s but in a odd way.

DVD’s I create generally play fine on our other DVD players, and our friends player too. But our little Toshiba is always a problem.

What I’m wondering (and I’m poss thinking in the wrong way) is that I’d like to burn DVD’s that this can read, as if the Toshiba can read it, then anything will read it.

The disks the Toshiba reads fine are:

My old Verbatims I bought a few years ago:
Manufacturer Name : [Mitsubishi Chemical Corp.]
Manufacturer ID : [MCC 01RG20 ]

And also (Strangly enough) some new Tesco DVD-R disks I bought 3 off to see what they were like:
Manufacturer Name : [Ume Disc Manufacturing Ltd.]
Manufacturer ID : [UME01]

It refuses to play the following (won’t even recognise the disks)

Brand new 16x Verbatims (Taiyo Yuden TYG03 dye)
Brand new 16x TDK (TDK 003 Dye)

And struggles with other types I’ve tried too.

I’m wondering if I’m making a mistake even bothering about it, as the Verbatim (TYG03) disks burn the best I’ve had.

Toshiba’s DVD Players are really low-end, the SD260E’s here in Europe have severe issues with pressed Disney DVDs not to mention burned DVDs. Grab a decent Pioneer DVD player instead…

Thanks, yeah, I fully accept that.
It’s not changing the player I’m concerned about as they are cheap enough now.

what I’m kinda saying is:

For maximum compatibility, if other drives/players can cope with many disks, then for ultimate compatibility, if you find something that plays on the Toshiba, then perhaps it will play on pretty much everything else also?

Then again, perhaps not!

Say, you burned a home movie, and wanted to lend it to all your friends and family, then the most compatible disk (that even played on fussy/poor Toshiba’s) would be good.


I was told that new “Verbatim MCC 03RG20” disks would be the closest NEW thing to my old “Verbatim MCC 01RG20” disks I bought a few years ago.

I think I’ll get some to complement my Verbatim TYG03 disks I currently find are the best.

Perhaps the MCC disks will be excellent also AND play in the Toshiba.

What you think?

I would try Verbatim 16x -R discs, yes. They are commonly found, good discs, and often on sale.

I wouldn’t say Toshiba players are bad, older players in general are often picky with dye-based DVD media, that’s all. Some of the least picky of players are the cheapo generic players, that doesn’t make them better players though. If a disc plays in a very picky player then yes, it is obviously a good sign for compatibility. But it’s still not a guarantee that the disc will play in another player that’s less picky.

I would agree. A picky player doesn’t necessarily have to have top quality burns for a disk to play, but rather just needs a good burn on a disk type that it gets along with. It just might not like certain media. For instance, say the Toshiba likes brand a disks and plays them fine, but not brand b. another picky player might be just the opposite, liking brand b disks but not brand a. It can sometimes boil down to compatibility, and what type of disks that particular player likes, rather than the absolute quality of the disk or the burn.

Thanks for the replies.

Yeah, I know it’s not an easy one.

We all (I guess) would like a disk thats the “Most Compatible” there is, but as you say, what’s compatible with one, may not be compatible with another.

I have a upscaling OPPO DVD player, which seems to play everything no matter how bad it is.

A Xbox 360 which is almost as good at playing anything.

Girlfriend has a cheap DVD player which play’s (almost) anthing.

And out Toshiba which is as fussy as hell…

I would think for best compatibility, use good quality media that has a good reputation, use bitset +r disks, and learn to scan your disks for errors to ensure that the media is getting along with the burner/firmware. Its just my opinion, but scanning can be even more important now than it ever has been in the past, as the selection of good 16x media is not near as good as the selection of good 8x and 4x media that we had in the past. Compatibility between various drives seems to be a bit worse too.

Interesting thread - I have quite a few collected DVD players I use for testing, one of them is an APEX AD1200 (fussy player) and a Toshiba SD3990, excellent quality player but fussy too. The toshibas seem to like the -R better than the +R, even when bitset for some reason. Example, I have some old FUJI DVD+R 8x (RITEKR03) and they barely get detected and all I get are green and purple cubes and pausing constantly, even with bitset discs. Contrary to what I thought, burning speed seems to affect playability on some players - to me it’s still a data disc and it should be burnt at its rated speed on a quality disc. Nonetheless, I burn from now on all my discs at 8x, and use unbranded Taiyo Yuden +R discs and they are played fine by my fussy players and all players. I don’t know why some people don’t like Toshiba - My Toshiba SD3990 produces excellent quality video and audio, and it has a variable brightness and detail control, something you don’t see in other players or only see ON/OFF, this one has about 20 steps control, it plays DivX, MPEG ISO (CD and DVD), PAL VCD/SVCD/DVD, Mp3, you name it…and well built.

Some players are going to like -r better though overall bitset +r are the most compatible. If +r are not bitset though, they are less compatible than -r.

Again, Thanks for all the interesting feedback.

I wonder if anyone know the technical (not too technical!) reason why some players are more fussy than others?

I mean, what it it about a home burned DVD that is SO VERY DIFFERENT from a shop bought DVD?

Might is simply be the reflectivity/colour of the actual surface?
Or the accuracy of the burned/distorted pits on the discs surfaces?

There must be something going on, when ANY “Real” dvd plays perfect, yet a burned DVD won’t even re recognised, even if they both contain exactly the same data.

Some players were/are never designed to read -/+r disks, so when they identify themselves as such, the player says to itself, unsupported disk (particularly with older players). -r has been around longer so it makes sense that more players would support it over +r. Bitset +r disks lie and identify themselves as dvd-rom disk so any player will try to read them (the reason that bitset +r is the most compatible). One thing that I learned when researching multiformat players is that most manufactures just buy one of the handfull of major chipsets and build a player around it. The chipset controls what can be played, so even on a recent model player, if the original design date of the chipset is older, it might play less formats (or play less formats well).

Another reason that I have heard people say is that cheaper players can actually do a better job as they do not do error correction etc. (or something along those lines) as well, which actually makes them blow past errors and problems (and probably skip in the video), but not freeze up on the spot. I think that is why early on the cheap apex players got such a good reputation for playing anything.
My cheapest no name (jsi, 30$) player will play anything including many formats it is not supposed to like nero digital and it rarely freezes up on a disk. y much more expensive philips player is not near as forgiving, both for what format or for the condition of the disk etc.

I would imagine that there are technical reasons beyond that such as certain players just liking the reflective nature of certain dyes on certain brands, or more forgiving with variations in how accurately the disk is burned (not only errors but accuracy of the locations of the pits), but I really don’t have the technical understanding to know about that for sure.


On our Toshiba (the fussy player) It’s obviously a technical issue than any logical “quality” issue.

It will play + and - my old Verbatim disks (an oldish dye)
It would not play -r brand new Maxells
It wil not play +r new TDK

Yet, it happily perfectly plays Tesco own brand -r

Funny isn’t it.

They are all recorded with Nero, and being +r or -r does not seem to be THE issue.
So, can only assume it’s the dye and/or reflectivness (possibly)

Such is life :slight_smile:

The manual for my Tosh says use +Rs. Mine will play any half decent quality +Rs but struggles at the end of most -Rs.