Its quite simple to burn games. First of all you need a program called Protection-ID. You can get it at www.gameburnworld.com/cdridentifyingtools.htm Then click v5 it should right in front of you i think its a zip file. What it does is scans your file or files for protection such as securom, safedisk, and lots more. Just hit scan, browse for a file in explorer, and then it will tell you if you have any or not. If you don’t. Then theres many ways to burn disks. If its safedisk 2.7 or higher you’ll have to load the trial or real version of alchohol 120%. Insert the real game(loaded first) and get to any main screen where it says quit. quit the game. Keep the disc in d or E drive(whatever drive) go back into alcohol. Go into options/general section. In a little white box on the left it will have emulation at the bottom and then extra below that. Go into extra emulation and check of BAD sectors(remmeber its bad sectors for safedisk the other 2 boxes can be in the same situation) Then go into the Image Making Wizard. In there you can leave anything except the datatype at bottom of window. change it to safedisk whatever 2 or 3)(it doesn’t have to be safedisk its just what i’m posting about) Then hit next. Now go back to options in the data type setting box. theres should be 2 tabs in that window. in the recording options tabe uncheck the window with efm or whatever. It has ef_ in it i can’t remeber. Go back to the burning thing and hit start(remember to make datatype 2/3) Just wait for that to get done. Make sure you remmeber where you put the image before you started the making wizard (mine went to an alcohol 120% folder with *.mds and *.mdf) Now once thats done go into the recording option and set the buffer memory to 74mb(if the physical ram is really hight it may be 100 or so) 256 is 74 500 or around there is 100 mb of memory buffer I forgot you have to do these otpions before you ope nthe wizards or you’ll have to close them again. Go back and do everything agains and burn the image onto the disk. Make sure the datatype is set to safedisk2/3 AGAIN! Once its done just click finish and the game will work without and bull shit clone disks or 2 sheep burner crap. You guys make things so complicated. Please reply with any problems. You sholdn’t have any unless my dirrections aren’t clear enough.–DrXfactr undefined :)I hope you know that you stick a blank in that has 700mb when you do the image burning wizard. The real cd for the making one lol
Might I suggest breaking that down into paragraphs?
Yes, you’ve decribed how to burn a safedisc 2.7 disc that will work with your burner. What you fail to realise is that copy protections have got a lot more advanced than sd 2.7 and the latest version (sd 3.2) cannot just be backed up by any burner. Have you tried backing up a safedisc 3.2 game…it’s very difficult unless you are lucky enough to have the correct hardware.
lol actually i have lol. You don’t need a certain hardware you just have to know your program. splinter cell has 3.2 and yes it works with my technique. I know this is dumb but you can also just delete the safedisk files in the game. Its difficult to find them. there are some other posts out here about 3.2 and how to bypass. I hate to tell anybody who works for safedisk but you won’t be able to stop us. Its unstopable. I know i sound like a dumbass but 3.2 is simple. i have sony cd-rw crx215e1 and an atap dvd rom 16x i copied both. If anyone has any ideas because i’m having problems with sims 2 i think it has 3.2 Does anyone know how to burn ANYTHING WITH 3.2 BESIDES MY TECHNIQUE. i"M FREE FOR IDEAS BECAUSE this way might not work when 3.4 comes out in march
Your sony burner happens to be good enough for safedisc 3.2 whilst most other drives are not. If there was a simple way to do it, we’d all be using that method - but there is no quick fix solution.
You shouldn’t have any problems with sims 2 (cd edition) with alcohol if you were able to copy splintercell 2 ok. Might be a bad burn; try it again and see.
I jsut played it like 3 minutes ago. Hey CD everyone is using my method their just not posting it lol. I know some others who know this. Splinter cell :pandor definetly works. so i’m pretty sure this will work out. if you have erros doing this then o well. What you have to do is turn off all protection programs like nortons and spware and spy sweeper in order for 3.2 to not catch the drive. They messed up on using the protection as an iad. It may not seem like protection is on but you atleast have 1 if 3.2 won’t go with my technique. If you ahve any further questions just reply.-Drxfactr Its intersting they should just stop making these programs because thers always atleast 1 person who knows how to burn 3.2 or higher even lol
The condensed, easy-to-follow version.
PS. the only thing that’s different to what most people do is that you load the game first before making the image. Count yourself lucky that you have a drive capable of backing up this protection; most people don’t.
I don’t know where to start here. Most of the points have been covered but I think a sum up will be handy.
You have writtena gudie on how to use Alcohol. Well done. Unfortuntaly some of the infomation that you have posted is inaccurate at best.
It does make a difference what type of burner you have. This has been proven by more knowledgeable people then you or me. The reason your copies are working are two fold. You have a capable drive and you have turned on emulation. Both of these make a HUGE difference. However if you ahve the right drive then emulation is not always needed. If I have a Plextor Premium drive then I will use BlindWrite to copy all of my SecuROM games. Why bother with emulation in that case. The drive and the program can do it without any.
Why load up the game. Nothing is kept. The secret way the copy protection works isn’t left stored nice and simply on your hard drive. There is no reason to other than to make sure the original works on your machine. It makes no difference to the copying of the disk.
I am also pretty sure you can’t just delete the safedisc files. Why? Well one reason would be that you would violate the copyright of the disc and therefore be committing a crime. I guess that one is for you to decide on but if you did delete the safedisc files then the game would fail to load, install or generally work without 3rd party (you all know what I mean here) interference.
Whats this about Norton, Spy Sweeper and the rest. Why should I turn it off. It does nothing to interact with the copy protection or copying programs.
Its great that you have had success with this method. However as previously stated you have the drive and emulation. Also I don’t think that you can say this is going to work on all drives. How many drives have you copied games on. Just your Sony? Thats one drive that it works on. Will it work on my Plextor 12A or my brothers Acer drive? I seriously doubt it because they can’t cope with the protection. The emulation may help out there but it may also not.
For me your sentance of “i’M FREE FOR IDEAS BECAUSE this way might not work when 3.4 comes out in march” is the most inspiring because one it shows that you are at least intrested in learning and second that you seem to know when the newer copy protection is coming out. I take it you have a source for this as untill the new copy protections arrive normally we don’t know anything about them.
I see your very knowledgable on this junk. I’l probably listen to you about everything except the loading and the nortons . I’m pretty in the know on that. but you know more then me. except you seem to already have done this. Have you gotten 3.2 to work. If so then i’ll totally listen to you
Starting and quitting the game before the backup process helps to accelerate the reading of the bad sectors of the CD (about 900-10000) tremendously. Instead of struggling around at a speed of about 0,1 - 0,4 x which takes about 7-8 minute, the defective sectors are inserted automatically from alcohol 120 in a few seconds.
Thats an official “trick” which is also posted on the alcohol website.
But thats one of the only true intelligent things drxfactr is talking about. sorry, dont want to offend, but the fact that you were able to make a backup which works for you doesnt mean that this is a general rule. Or do you think we are all idiots? I spent already several whole days with this protection and tested all my drives as reader/writer (LiteOn 163, Liteon 811S, LiteOn 832S, Liteon 52327S, Liteon 52246S, Philips 885K, Pioneer A-05, Yamaha F1, Noname) without success. As discussed here and elsewhere, it is not possible to make a 1:1 backup of safedisc 3.20.022. Its only possible do make backuos which sometimes work, sometimes not (talking about non emulated backups).
Take time and read this thread:
TschensBrems summed it all up
I have no great expectations of making you understand this, but believe me hardware is essential for this process to have any chance to succeed, and the fact that you made it happen means absolutely nothing for others.
Just my contri to this great thread
To give him credit, his guide (along with a “few” adjustments) is the proceedure people should follow when trying to backup safedisc 3. It just so happens that a number of other people can also use the image/burning wizard correctly and so “know their program…”
I see what you are all saying. But why do you choose not to use emulation. Is it illegal. If it is then i just committed a crime lol. It sux if it is. They also make an emulation program far more advanced then clone cd gamesxcopy and alcohol. I don’t have it though but its from france lol
Nope it isn’t illegal, it’s just that we here at CD Freaks like to make non-emulated copies of our software
Yes, we are quite obsessive!!!
Wow! You just re-invented the wheel!
Why dont I also make a big post of lets say backing up securom 4.x?
yes, that is very true. i have never and probably will never make an emulated backup. i like non-emulated backups
I managed to do the Sims 2 last night from my Original Disc and the copy plays no problems. I think thats safedisk 3???
SafeDisc 3.20.022 to be exact:)