This is one tough one to Burn: RealFlight Deluxe R/C Simulator CD - HELP!

To Dupe or Not To Dupe!!! I need help on duping this fucking 3D flight simulator called RealFlight Deluxe R/C Simulator which is distributed by GreatPlanes & made for them by Knife Edge Software. I’m into radio controlled planes & helicopters & this what we in this hobby use for training when it’s freezing or raining outside. This fucking thing cost $325 which most of us don’t seem to have these days. This Sim game uses the SafeDisc protection. I’ve tried to copy this fucking thing using CDRWIN 3.8a, Nero (my version which shipped with my 6424 burner as well as the full blown version which I downloaded), ADAPTEC’s CD CREATOR 4.0, Between myself & three other friends we’ve made about 30 drink coasters all together using all the helpful, yet useless hints related to SAFEDISC copying technics that I found here & over at GAMECOPYWORLD’s site. We’ve used the HP7010, JVC XR2010, Yamaha 4416 & the CREATIVE LABS 6426 (which I own) CDRW WriterS. They copy without errors, but when I tried to play it said something like: “Insert CD” or “Insert the original RealFlight Deluxe R/C Simulator CD in drive H:”. Then, I downloaded the Generic patch of C-Dilla versions 1.0, 2.0, 3.02 & 3.1 from gamecopyworld, but that didn’t work either. I tried this because someone somewhere on the forums told me that if make a copy without any errors genereated during the burning process I should be able to run this Sim with C-Dilla. This didn’t work! Can anyone please help??


If anybody knows the answer, I would like to have a copy too. I know someone who is desperately looking for it.
(Hey, I placed the Topic on top again!)

That’s if… so far this tends to be impossible which means we’re in trouble.
PS: Even if it were possible I’d still need a crack or a serial number to install it. Can’t use my original copies serial number. That would be stupid of me to do so.

I’m in the same boat folks, I’d appreciate if anyone can figure this one out. I aasume you still need the Controller, even if you get the cd’s to copy. I was thinking about buying one of the older version off ebay or something to get the controller, and then burning copies of the software from a friend. I also, have access to the Add ON Volumes 1 and 2, but they won’t copy either.

its an easy one, just use clone cd and the yamaha burner, yamaha 4416 can copy safedisc.
Hope it works for you

Don’t know about real flight deluxe but i know a cd dealer who has it so copying must be possible :wink:

If its real flight g2 this uses safedisc 2 protection so a compatable writer is needed.

The only other solution is using Daemon-tools i can comfirm that this works, I have a Ricoh 7040a burner flashed to a 7060a(not SD2 Compatable) with the lastest firmware, I used Clone CD to make the image,however you will have to keep the cd image on your hard drive. Check out It rocks !!!

I was able to copy the cd with CloneCD.


See my other post bellow!

If this cd is protected with Safedisc2, you need a compatible writer. Check the homepage of CloneCD and read the sticky threads in the CloneCD forum. With the proper writer you should have no trouble in copying this cd.

Let me rephrase.

I was able to burn an image of the Real Flight G2 CD, although, when trying to burn this image to CDR, all looks ok. But if you try to install from the CDR, it comes up and says, “There was an error with the file setup.exe”.

Don’t know if that’s because by CDRW is probebly not capable of 1:1 copy or something else. My CDRW is a Mitsumi CR-4802. I’m planning on going to buy the Lite-On 40125S and see if that one will make a good burn to cdr.

Anyway, with the 772Mb image on my HDD, I can load this image with Daemon-tools and it will install and run fine. The I need to Manualy install the 2.00.550 update and i’m off flying.


For backing up safedisc protected cds, the writing of the weak sectors is the problem. Only some writers are able to write a working image, for example the LiteOn you mention.

So your telling me that the image I created is GOOD although, when trying to burn it back to a CDR on my CR-4802 it will not work. But, if I purchase the Lite-On 40125S it will work?

Could you confirm that burning an image on a Non “wsa” CDRW drive will burn a good image, but I would need to get the Lite-ON since that drive is capable or writing “WSA”?

So this means that WSA is only relevant to Writing and image to CD or copy CD to CD but NOT relevant to Creating an image from a SafeDisk2 CD (Game)?



All this applies to Realflight G2. I have not worked with Realflight Classic or Deluxe.

I was able to back up my Realflight G2 original CD using CloneCD. It used SD2 protection.

Make the image with Fast Error Skip enabled. There will be many errors in the first 10,000 sectors or so. That is normal. It will give you a good image. I am able to use that image with DaemonTools to run Realflight G2. When Realflight G2 checks for the original CD in the CDROM drive, it sees the image and it works. NOTE: You need to install Realflight from the mounted image to make this work. Realflight goes as far as checking to see if the drive letters match. So if you install from the original, and then put that CD away for safekeeping, and use the image created with CloneCD as a virtual CD with DaemonTools (as a different drive letter), Realflight will caugh and hack at you.

To make backup copies of Realflight G2, you need to have Amplify Weak Sectors enabled. See other sections of the forum to make that work. Your CD burner must be compatible for that to work. Some burners (Lite-On and Plextor) don’t require the AWS enabled, as they handle the EFM encoding correctly by themselves. Most other burners must have AWS turned on.

As far the controller, you can make your own controller or buy the USB controller upgrade from Realflight. Here is a link to make that controller from a Futaba trainer box. The Futaba trainer boxes can be bought on eBay for about $25.

The hard part is finding the correct size potentiometers (pots) to replace the standard 5k pots in the Futaba controller. The joystick interface on computers call for 100k linear taper pots. A 500k pot will work as you are only using about 20% (~100k) of the pots complete turning ability. Radio Shack sells 1M (linear) pots which will work if you add ~200k resistor in parallel with the center and end poles. The 100k pots that Radio Shack sells do not give enough range to work accurately. WARNING: Radio Shack pots are very cheap also, and tend to jump around. If you can find a reliable source for high quality 500k pots, please post it. Also, the pots need to have very little physical resistance to turning. Most pots are designed to be turned with a large knob and have quite a bit of physical resistance to turning. Look for one that is easy to turn, or the springs in the Futaba controller will have a hard time recentering the joystick.

More than you ever wanted to know, right?

Good luck.

i have the Lite-On 40125S, and i was able to save off an image of G2 using Clone CD, and mount the image w/Daemon Tools, emulate SafeDisc, and then copy that off a virtual drive onto a CD with Cone CD. At first when copying the image to your drive, it will go extremely slow, but after about 5-10 minutes it should pick up.

any idea where to find the iso on the net?

plasma, perhaps you should have a read at the third bullet here.