The Taiyo Yuden FAQ

vbimport

#301

[I]In Europe[/I], Verbatim is often the cheapest of the “big” name brands (Maxell, Sony, TDK, Fuji…) and can often be considered as “pleasantly mid priced”. :cool:

The general idea of your advice still stands, though. :slight_smile:


#302

Hi, i bought 10 “that’s” dvd-r today (they are genuine btw), however at the store i saw taiyo yuden dvd-r without the that’s brand on it. So i was wondering which one of those 2 is better? Also they were blue ones and also gold ones! I am a little confused which ty dvd-r is better and what are the differences between the four.

p.s. I think that all of them they were genuine ty because the ones i bought they were (i did all the necessary tests as this helpful faq says, lol they were indeed smelled like peaches!) and also this store cooperates with discimpex.


#303

It shouldn’t make much of a difference, the blueness or goldness is entirely a matter of personal preference, I assume. :slight_smile:


#304

So the only difference the blue/gold one’s have is the color? And what about the that’s ty? Should i prefer the ones that have that’s printed on it or the ones that don’t?


#305

Hi there. I recently bought my very first Taiyo Yuden DVD-Rs ever! I got them from JPL Displays in Australia. (http://www.jpldisplays.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=217)

Since all I really knew about TYs before I made the purchase was that TY is an excellent brand of blank media, I at first thought nothing of the fact that when I got my tape wrapped 100 discs the next day, the Manufacturer ID of the first disc I used was TYG03.

However, further research has revealed that many believe the TYG02 discs to be vastly superior to the TYG03 discs. Is it just me, or have I been screwed over and been sent inferior discs to the ones I ought to have received (since TYG02 was the given Media Code on JPL’s product page)?

What confuses me even more is that the Taiyo Yuden sticker has the Media Code TYG02 printed on it. Because I got bored and decided to go through the 100 to see if any TYG02s made it in, I found 52 DVD-Rs with the batch code GH000186, and 48 with the batch code GH000172.

Any advice as to whether I have any right/reason to complain, or whether it is worth pursuing the issue or not, would be appreciated. Please let me know if you need more details. Thanks in advance for helping a newbie!


#306

Yo, all GHs are TYG03 (16x DVD-R). They are less popular but should nevertheless be great discs.

However, as you ordered TYG02 (and these don’t say value line either), you’re supposed to get TYG02. TYG02 is more compatible with older drives and slightly more consistent :slight_smile:


#307

[QUOTE=masta_blasta;1938065]

Any advice as to whether I have any right/reason to complain, or whether it is worth pursuing the issue or not, would be appreciated. Please let me know if you need more details. Thanks in advance for helping a newbie![/QUOTE]

You have every right to complain, what you got is not what you paid for.


#308

Hi,
I got this TY that I believe is genuine, even though the disks were really cheap (0.22£ / 0.31€ per disk) - they were from SVP (which I ordered from Germany, btw, to relate to the discussion on the last page :)), sold as TY and seem to have the right batch code (TH000021).

Anyways, I’m a little confused by the scans I often get and I would like to know what to expect from this, especially concerning long-term storage. :confused:

What puzzles me is that the PIE are usually very low and alone would make me believe that this is an excellent burn (with a Benq DW1620, firmware B7W9). But the PIF are rather high, and it’s not only a short peak. Sometimes the PIF would go even higher (12-14), even though only for a short while. :frowning:

All DVDs copy fine so far, but as I said, I’m worried about getting the disks out in 3-4 years and realizing that I can’t use half of them anymore. :doh:

I have had more expensive TY and didn’t have problems with high PIF then. Is it a fake after all? Or a bad batch and that’s why it as so cheap?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this! :bigsmile:



#309

[QUOTE=Markstar;1945732]Hi,
I got this TY that I believe is genuine, even though the disks were really cheap (0.22£ / 0.31€ per disk) - they were from SVP (which I ordered from Germany, btw, to relate to the discussion on the last page :)), sold as TY and seem to have the right batch code (TH000021).

Anyways, I’m a little confused by the scans I often get and I would like to know what to expect from this, especially concerning long-term storage. :confused:

What puzzles me is that the PIE are usually very low and alone would make me believe that this is an excellent burn (with a Benq DW1620, firmware B7W9). But the PIF are rather high, and it’s not only a short peak. Sometimes the PIF would go even higher (12-14), even though only for a short while. :frowning:

All DVDs copy fine so far, but as I said, I’m worried about getting the disks out in 3-4 years and realizing that I can’t use half of them anymore. :doh:

I have had more expensive TY and didn’t have problems with high PIF then. Is it a fake after all? Or a bad batch and that’s why it as so cheap?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this! :bigsmile:[/QUOTE]

The scan is fine. YUDEN000 T03 most of the time don’t scan as prettily as say T02 anyway. Burn speed can make an impact as well. :wink:

They’re not fakes with that batch number :disagree:

Possibly if you had a newer drive and tried them you’d get quite a different-looking scan.

Besides, scans aren’t everything…if the disc passes a Transfer Rate Test (in CD-DVD Speed, go to the “Run Test” menu and select Transfer Rate Test, with the Benchmark tab open) then I’d definitely say it’s fine.


#310

Thank you! I feel much better now. :smiley:


#311

[QUOTE=Markstar;1945732]I’m a little confused by the scans I often get […] (burned ) with a Benq DW1620, firmware B7W9[/QUOTE]At what burning speed? The 1620 is an old burner now, it’s still very good for a lot of blanks, but don’t expect it to handle TYG03 as well as newer burners specially at higher speeds (@12X, @16X). Also, TYG03 won’t like @4X. You have basically no better choice than @8X with this combination.

I don’t think there’s anything really wrong with the scan posted, though I’m pretty sure it’s possible to achieve better burns with these blanks, if they are dust-free (see the PIF cluster @ ~2.3GB? Odds are very high that this is from a big speck of dust :wink: ) and you burn them @8X in the 1620.

Good luck :slight_smile:


#312

[QUOTE=Francksoy;1945923]At what burning speed? [/quote]16x - actually, the scans are worse at lower speeds. The optimal speed for the TYG02 I had before was 12x.

The 1620 is an old burner now, it’s still very good for a lot of blanks, but don’t expect it to handle TYG03 as well as newer burners specially at higher speeds (@12X, @16X). Also, TYG03 won’t like @4X. You have basically no better choice than @8X with this combination.
Hmm, I’m not really sure this is true. It is a 16x burner after all. Why would the burner be to old to handle 16x?

I don’t think there’s anything really wrong with the scan posted, though I’m pretty sure it’s possible to achieve better burns with these blanks, if they are dust-free (see the PIF cluster @ ~2.3GB? Odds are very high that this is from a big speck of dust :wink: ) and you burn them @8X in the 1620.
Nope, fresh from the box and, as mentioned before, @ 16x. :wink: There was definitely no dust involved. :disagree:

But thanks anyways, as long as there is no risk of this having any long-term effect I’m OK with the result. :cool:


#313

A 16X burner doesn’t necessarily burn better @16X, faaaaar from it. :disagree: - since when would the max speed of anything (a car, for example) be the best operating speed? :wink: Plus, TYG03 is [I]specifically[/I] not very easy to handle by many burners.

What do you mean by “the scans are worse at lower speeds” BTW? A couple of examples would be nice. :slight_smile:

There was definitely no dust involved. :disagree:
Have you actually cheked? Most dust particles or small defects due to dust during the burn (small dark unburnt spots) are not visible at all in ambient light and through casual examination. You need to check directly under a very stong lamp/spot and by looking very closely.

Many blanks are dusty straight out of the box and most people won’t ever take notice unless they specifically look for the particles. In my experience dust is the main isolated-PIF-clumps-maker.


#314

[QUOTE=Francksoy;1947592]A 16X burner doesn’t necessarily burn better @16X, faaaaar from it. :disagree: [/quote]Yeah, I know. It’s just that I never read here that 16x is a problem, at least not because the writer is “too old” (usually because of bad writing strategies at higher speeds).

Plus, TYG03 is [I]specifically[/I] not very easy to handle by many burners.
Yes, I’ve heard of that but I just couldn’t refuse to get the T03 at this price. :stuck_out_tongue:

What do you mean by “the scans are worse at lower speeds” BTW? A couple of examples would be nice. :slight_smile:
I mean that a burn at 8x looks worse than one at 12x or 16x (for the TYG02). I actually started a thread about this a while back. Strangely enough I can’t find those scans anymore. :frowning:

Have you actually cheked? Most dust particles or small defects due to dust during the burn (small dark unburnt spots) are not visible at all in ambient light and through casual examination. You need to check directly under a very stong lamp/spot and by looking very closely.
I just checked, no spots. I’m very anal about dust. Also an indication that it is not dust: Usually the spikes are longer, in this case it’s only single spikes.

Anyways, thanks for the reply! :slight_smile:


#315

Hi guys,

I am looking to buy the TY CD-R’s and I saw an ad on eBay for it but since there’s nothing written on the cakebox I don’t know if it’s “real” TY.

This is the information that the seller posted:

<table border=“0”><tbody><tr><td class=“AvenTable” width=“120”>[B]Manufacturer:[/B]</td> <td class=“AvenTable” width=“250”>Taiyo Yuden</td> </tr> <tr> <td class=“AvenTable”>[B]Manufacturer Part#: [/B]</td> <td class=“AvenTable”>CDR80WPP600SK (Made in Japan)</td></tr></tbody></table>

Is this genuine?

Then I saw another ad and this was the ad:

Taiyo Yuden 80m White Inkjet Hub Printable in Shrink Wrap(100)
Item #: TYD80WPH-100

This sounds more “genuine” to me. Can someone point me to somewhere that lists the correct codes for genuine TY CD-Rs?

Thanks in advance!


#316

well, i can’t really help in the part/item#, but if it says it’s “Made in Japan” then it should be genuine, hopefully someone could help you more on this!!


#317

This is my 1st pack of Taiyo Yuden I’ve ever purchased. :slight_smile:

Ordered from www.rima.com btw

I normally use Verbatim dvd-r, but after reading about these discs here on the forums I decided to give them a try.

This is a scan of the very 1st dvd on the spindle…burned @ 4x

Looks pretty good to me, but I’m certainly not an expert. Just thought I’d pass my scan along as general info.

Regards

MC :cool:

btw - my burner is a Lite-On as listed in the drive menue, but Nero is detecting it as a Sony. Is this normal? As in perhaps Sony built the drive but it just has a Lite-On lable? Just curious :wink:


#318

Hey all,

So I ordered the TY CD-R’s from RIMA and I finally got it today. It doesn’t say TY anywhere though. It doesn’t say “Made in Japan”. The only thing I was able to see was a stamp on inside of the disc that says “FF755DO143480”. How do I know if this is even TY media?? I just have to take RIMA’s word for it?

Oh, there’s an even smaller code stamped on the silver of the disc itself “80 pg7576”

Well, I answered my own question (but this info might help others). I put the CD in my drive and ran a NeroInfoTool and it came up as a blank CD and the manufacturer is TY.

THanks:)


#319

[QUOTE=MrCairo;1964563]This is my 1st pack of Taiyo Yuden I’ve ever purchased. :slight_smile:

Ordered from www.rima.com btw

I normally use Verbatim dvd-r, but after reading about these discs here on the forums I decided to give them a try.

This is a scan of the very 1st dvd on the spindle…burned @ 4x

Looks pretty good to me, but I’m certainly not an expert. Just thought I’d pass my scan along as general info.

Regards

MC :cool:

btw - my burner is a Lite-On as listed in the drive menue, but Nero is detecting it as a Sony. Is this normal? As in perhaps Sony built the drive but it just has a Lite-On label? Just curious ;)[/QUOTE]

btw these TY discs are 8x max speed media. This burn was done @ 4x…I tried to burn @8x and there was a big error spike at the beginning and the quality score dropped to zero. Though the rest of the scan looked fine, and the disc plays well with no visible tearing that I can find.

I guess I’ll play it safe and burn all these @ 4x :wink:


#320

[B]@MrCairo, [/B] did you crossflash your SONY into Lite-ON? or did it come like it is?! the burn isn’t as good as a TYG02 should be IIRC… and that 8X burn sounds weird cause TYG02 burn extremely well even when oversped to 12X!!! i dunno… i think if i were you i would try to re-flash my drive to the latest fw again and see if anything different happens… maybe should make a backup of the EEPROM before doing it, just in case… and maybe clearing the OPC history would do the trick… you have many options to start with so, start with the one you find fit :wink: