Test Sony, Verbatim, Fortis-TYG02, Imation

Well your burner seems to write those sony16D1 fairly well. If they are cheap you can use more of them.

The optodisc in my opinion are also not too bad at all. They might have high PIE but the PIF is quite low.

Which is it the maximum value that you recommend for being sure of a good scanning?

I like total to be below 2000. As long as the PIF errors are spread out evenly, it shouldn’t matter too much.

That scan with 8000PIF is a bad result in my opinion. Too many PIF and they all seem very close together and bunched up. It may not work in some DVD players.

A few days ago I lost photographs with Verbatim DVD-r.
Where my advice to be more careful in displaying the PIF or PIE?
How does it have to be in order not to risk?

The Imation disc is well within specifications, you shouldn’t have any problems with it. Your Verbatim disc probably failed because it is not very compatible with your burner (which you can tell from the high PIE, not the PIF). Putting a maximum value on the number of PIF only is meaningless.

Best thing to do is check the media and scan it regularly (every month if it’s quite important) and make sure the errors aren’t rising from the previous scans. So long as the errors are not increasing with time, the disc will continue to be readable.

The errors may increase even if you do not use the DVD?

Yes, discs can deteriorate over time, even if not used. But there’s no reason to panic, it’s not a very common problem. Next time you buy blank media, try some Verbatim DVD+R, they should be more compatible with your burner and last a very long time.

Trying to put things into perspective and to show that it takes more than a couple PIF’s to make a bad disc, I have tested one and the same disc in 4 different drives. This rewriteable disc contains a TV-recording recently made with a standalone (living room type) recorder (for the initiated, yes, the last ~200MB are a remnant from a previous burn in a PC drive). The disc is recognized immediately and plays back without issues in several drives/players I have tried. Just to show that you can’t come to an absolute conclusion based on a single scan result. Also, the Transfer Rate Test (last image below) is needed to confirm whether your disc is readable and all data can be retieved from it.





Are the authentic Taiyo Yuden TYGO2 disks good?

Non sapevo che avrei potuto utilizzare il DVD +.R
I have not yet tried to make scanning a CD, also applies to them this tolerance?

PIE should not be higher than 280 per 8 ECC blocks
PIF should not be higher than 4 per 1 ECC block

CD scans must be interpreted differently than DVD scans.

I can see that you have a BenQ DW1620 which is a very good CD scanner if you use the Advanced Disc Quality scanning tab.

C1=BLER should be no higher than 220 per second. Lower is better.
Any E32 are unacceptable.
Any E22 are undesirable.
E32 (three or more errors detected but not corrected by C2 layer) means that a block has failed C1 and C2 error correction.
E22 (two error deteced and corrected by C2 layer) means that a block has passed C2 error correction but is one error away from failing.

If you use the Disc Quality tab instead of the Advanced Disc Quality tab, the BenQ DW1620 will report C2=E32 which is less useful than the detailed reporting available in ADQ scans.

EDIT: Doh! I was looking at Cressida’s BenQ DW1620 scans. :doh:

The LiteOn SOHW-1673S is not a good CD scanner because it only reports C1 failures (instead of all C1 errors) and C2 failures.

If your standalone player can’t handle DVD+R, you can use the “BookType Utility” to burn them as DVD-ROM: http://www.liteonit.com/global/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=153

If I had to replace the LITE-ON what would you suggest?
What must make good scans DVD and CD.

Not happy with fake media in general, but I have to say that Optodisc actually was able to make some decent media when abussing the TY code. Actually I’ve seen some cases were the optodisc fake TYG02 performed as good as the real thing. :eek:

As explained in my previous post with scanning examples, there is no single drive and single scan result which will guarantee the quality of your burned discs. All the scans you posted at the beginning of this thread are within specification (except for the Verbatim’s PIE) and should be good usable discs, but you must realize that 100% certainty can not be obtained with consumer scanning drives. Of course the lower PIE/PIF you get, the better.

Just keep using your Lite-On to test DVD’s (Disc Quality scan [U]and[/U] Transfer Rate Test) to find a brand/type of discs which gives you the best test results and plays without problems in all drives/players available to you. CD’s are much less critical than DVD’s, provided you use good quality media and burn at medium speeds.

As explained in my previous post with scanning examples, there is no single drive and single scan result which will guarantee the quality of your burned discs. All the scans you posted at the beginning of this thread are within specification (except for the Verbatim’s PIE) and should be good usable discs, but you must realize that 100% certainty can not be obtained with consumer scanning drives. Of course the lower PIE/PIF you get, the better.

Just keep using your Lite-On to test DVD’s (Disc Quality scan [U]and[/U] Transfer Rate Test) to find a brand/type of discs which gives you the best test results and plays without problems in all drives/players available to you. CD’s are much less critical than DVD’s, provided you use good quality media and burn at medium speeds.

Are the authentic TYG02’s good?

I did a new test.
DVD-R Sony Made Japan, seem me very good.


Yes, it’s very good :slight_smile:

If I should buy a DVD Burners that advised me?
I would put it to the place of the reader.