Tempature of pc

vbimport

#1

This is a real noob question…Im asking because i just built the one i am on now and it is the first pc i have had with a lcd tempature display and was wanting to know what are good temps suppose to be?

For system spec see signature

thanks rfjr23


#2

Mine hangs around 30-40°C, up around 50 when I’m playing games, etc. In the summer it’s about 10-20° higher for both.


#3

Around 50C or lower is an acceptable temp, over 60C can slow the system down considerably and may be trouble. Most pentiums I’ve had have never gone much over 40C unless overclocked. I went for an AMD Thornton CPU as its rated to 90C critical temp, great for overclocking, but you always want to stay 20C below your critical temp. Go to the Intel website and see if you can find what your critical temp is, and work from there. By the way what does your readout say?


#4

reading as typing

cpu 28
hdd = 29
mb = 29

lol my mb is hotter than my cpu

if ur cpu is colder than ur mboard ur loookin good:)

my system is a p4 3.0 gb

with no water cooling crap… just normal p4 cooler and with 2 fans sucking air at the back and 2 fans at front blowing air
just normal case fans
is it a cold day today however jumps to bout 50 at full temperature peak when working its balls off


#5

with no water cooling crap
Right On, if your havin heat probs: copper heatsink, big assed fan on the sink, case fans, and clean the dust out once in a while. If your really desperate a passive intake straight to the CPU fan works well, and a case fan on top of your box between to P/Supply and ROM because the P/Supply makes lots a heat and hot air rises. I knocked 22C off my system average this way.


#6

critical temperature for a p4 is about 70C but it will underclock itself before it gets there. Mine (a 2.4B) has been hovering about 55C load for two years and shows no sign of trouble. HD temps should be kept as low as possible to extend life of the drive. GPU’s tend to be able to cope with a lot of heat. the gf6 throttles down at 127C so you should be fine. under 100


#7

Temperatures
Motherboard 25 °C (77 °F)
CPU 38 °C (100 °F)
Aux 25 °C (77 °F)
WDC WD1200JD-00GBB0 43 °C (109 °F)
WDC WD1200JD-00GBB0 45 °C (113 °F)


#8

ok thanks for the help everyone. i think im gonna add a couple more fans the only thing i have right now are 2 smaller fans that came with the case and on the front of the case it shows the temp on the inside of the case as 93.9°F.

Ill check more later headed out of town for the week

thanks again


#9

Thats great advice. A few more points. Get a good performance (which doesn’t have to be the most expensive) all copper heatsink. Performance can actually vary quite a bit with heatsinks so do a little research. Use a high performance heatsink compound (like artic silver 5). If you are going to get a high power cpu fan, consider a variable speed one cause they can be loud. That way you can crank it up when you are really loading your computer. They make ones that automatically do that via a sensor but I havent seen any I like (they let it get too hot before they crank up the fan). Also get a thermometer (I have a nifty digital one but something from the local hardware store works fine) so you know the ambient room tempature around your computer. If the temp inside your case isn’t much higher than the room tempature you probably have adaquate air flow through your case (though how the air flows, directions of fans etc. can effect how much air flow certain components in your system get). If you live in a hot climate and don’t crank the air conditioning all the time, it sucks if you keep fighting to get case temps down and don’t realize its almost that hot in the room.


#10

make sure u got the air flow direction correctly
what i mean is
make suer fans at the back of the case r throwing air outside the case NOT in i put it on the wrong way once n got 10 degress hotter
theres arrows on the fans make sure there pushing air out (if on the back of case) basically it does the exact same thing a powersupply fan does… think of it as helping the powersupply

fans at the front push air in
so think of it as a flow
air comes in from front… air comes out of back in

like us… we eat from top n shit out from the bottom


#11

I have done it a little diffrently on my main rig with the air blowing in from the back and side and blowing out the front. I kind of had to do it that way because I am running dual power supplys with the second power supply in the front botom. If the front fans blew in, they would be sucking the hot air from the second power supply right back in. Since there are more fans blowing in than out I get pretty good preasure blowing out the front. I can feel air coming out around the rail slots and cracks on my 5 1/4" bays.
I think I might have to try something creative (actually it’s not my idea, someone else on another forum said it worked great). I would be doing it with slightly diffrent parts (a diffrent heat sink anyway). It would be something along the lines of taking the fan off of this


and mounting it on my thermal take 11 copper heatsink with the fan aiming front to back. I would then take the volcano11 fan from the coper heatsink and mount it in the back of my case, blowing directlly into the intake on the cooler master fan. It looks like they would line up pretty well. If they don’t, I could just fashion som sor of a duct.Is it just me or is that a pretty weird setup?
Maybe if that works, I’ll rig this setup with it and two stacked 45 watt peltiers?
http://www.pbase.com/richardh/image/31156375
http://www.pbase.com/richardh/image/31156493
With a fan and shroud on the external heatsink thats not in the picture.
With only one 45 watt peltier (and a fan but no shroud to move the heat away) that setup was able to cool the entire case temp by 1-2 degrees c. I wonder what two peltiers and the shroud with the air blowing right into the cpu fan intake would do?
Ok fine, so I’m a little insane and cannot afford any really good mods so I do stuff like this with spare and or cheap parts sometimes, it might work?
I just though I would share my crazy little plan that I just thought of. :slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile: :slight_smile:


#12

I’ve been lazy with cleaning the air filters out of my water cooling kit and adding more water and coolant to it. Right now it’s at 35C on an AMD Athlon XP 3200+, once I get the motivation to do the aformentioned they’ll be back around the 27.5-30C range.

Maybe when I get my new case I’ll do the mantenience. btw, anyone know where to get some good coolant that is UV reactive??


#13

Here is some blue dye (blue is the coolest).
http://www.xoxide.com/blueuvdye.html
Here are some more dyes
http://www.cool-cases-usa.com/additives.htm
I think a lot of people just use uv reactive dye. As far as a uv reactive coolant, swift tech hydrix is green uv reactive and is anti-corosive/anti algae. I’m not sure the best place to get it though.
I havent tried any though. Water cooling is a little too expensive for me at the moment and I am still a little scared of leeks if I did have the money (I have heard of people frying shit really bad because of a small leek). I know it is rare if you set it up carfully but its still scarry.
What do you think of my crazy idea? If it doesn’t work I’m only out 20$ for the cooler master fan and heatsink (and I’m not really out it because i’ll still have the fan and heat sink). I already have the rest of the stuff laying around.
As far as uv for me, I have uv round cables and all the wires wrapped in blue and orange uv spiral wrap (actually most of the wires, I redid some things and got lazy and never finished).


#14

Mmmmmmm…UV Reactive Dye…Argh… Thanks!


#15

Uv kicks ass (especially blue uv)!!! It looks really cool to have all the shit in your computer glowing!!!
FYI, that cooler master cpu cooler is on sale at compusa for 20$. I am not going to say it is good or bad as when I researched it there were mixed opinions. The ones everybody talked about had a copper plate with welded aluminum fins. The newest model that I got is all copper. I couldn’t find any info on it online. It looks like the coper fins are bonded on (not the strangest thing, my thermal take has bonded fins too). Just in case anyone is interested.


#16

Hey Howd u get so many drives in their it must be 200 degrees how did u fit them


#17

This thread is over two years old mate, and if you wanted to get that amount of drives in, you would have to get a case that could fit all of them, a large power supply, a few more fans, a more powerful processer, and a bit more ram :wink:


#18

Here is a case that can take 11 opticals.
http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/Products.aspx?pid=1134
I’m installing this motherboard in one of my computers tonignt and it has 3 ide channels for 6 drives. A cheap pci controler card will add another 2 channels for 4 drives.



fyi I’m not sure if that is a good card for optical, I just picked that one for an example.
I wouldn’t think that they would give off that much heat unless you have several actually operating at the same time. If you did you would need some pretty good cooling. That case has 2 120mm fans in the back which should do pretty good. you could always cut holes and add 1 or 2 120mm in the top and cool just about anything.


#19

That is the case I have:) Plus 4 hard drive internally and 1 externally, no more space! :bigsmile:


#20

Mine only has 4 full size bays and I may have to sacrafice the top bay to uv lights tommorow (new motherboard and cpu so I’m upgrading my lighting while I’m at it). Lukilly I have a second computer right next to it with 4 more bays (kvm switch) and an external so I’m good. Each case also takes 6 hard drives so no problem there either.