I’m looking for archival DVD media DVD-R or DVD+R any is fine since i’m burning data.
Using a DVR-107D pioneer.
I’m planning to buy from this website www.pcx.com.au
They display TYG02 in OEM and Master versions, saying that
OEM TY = 0.3 average PI
TY Master = 0.16 average PI
http://www.pcx.com.au/products/buyers_Taiyo.asp?i=1079&p=1079&g=416
How accurate is this and is this just a sales gimmick? There is quite a price difference on this website.
I think the OEM vs master thing could be what is in being talked about in this CD Freaks thread, but I could not find the price and listing when I looked at that web site, could you give a link to the disks ?
If you are just using these for archiving data IMO it would be best for you to use DVD +R as this has a better error correction over -R, I only use -R over +R for older DVD players and they can work in a wider range of players (in my experience) for pure data there no need to factor this in.
[B]Narbe[/B], any of the TY media you list should be fine. The differences in average PIE will probably have no influence on the longevity of the discs.
If you’re worried about your archived DVDs going bad, I suggest you burn your data to two (or more) different brands and types of DVD media. This will reduce the risk of losing data due to a bad batch of media.
What “better error correction” are you referring to?
DVD-R and DVD+R use the same PI/PO Error Correcting Code.
Maybe this? 
Not only are the pre-pits more error prone than phase modulation, but data they carry are also less protected. In one ECC block pre-pits carry 192 bits of information (one pre-pit block). Out of these 192 bits, 48 are not protected by any error correction mechanism, 24 bits are protected by 24 bits of parity (A parity), and the last 56 bits are also protected by 24 bits of parity (B parity). All in all, this strange heterogeneous structure finally gives a pretty weak protection to the information bits carried by pre-pits.
On the other hand the corresponding DVD+R(W) structure is 4 times smaller : one ADIP word is 52 bits large, consisting of 1 sync bit, 31 data bits and 20 parity bits (which protect all data bits). One ECC block contains 4 ADIP words, so 204 bits of information in total. Also each ADIP word contains the full ECC block address, while 4 times this size are needed in the - technology to extract this address : this gives significant speedups when seeking uses this method.
source: http://www.cdfreaks.com/article/113
In real-world, though, I doubt it makes any difference, as drive manufacturers obviously found solid workarounds.
EDIT [totally off-topic] - so the “pirate look” is the new trend? 
Yep, that is better than I could have said, I was given a link to a page some time ago when I asked ‘what is better’ (I will dig it out) that said basically that +R are better, but there is not much in it, and its only as I have said, I save pure data via +R (no problem with players bulking at it) and I can see from my own stuff that the PIE are lower (not by much) on +R on the same media.
But at the end of the day good media is just that no matter if + or -R, and if the stuff is important do as you said… back it up, my old man says ‘back up or die’ if it is important dont rely on a single copy.
I’m currently using G04 at the moment and I’ve burnt around 100-150 of them in the past 2years. It is because of recent reflectivity and degradation issues that’s I’ve seen brought up in the forums I would like to transfer these to a quality media, upon reading the information here it seems TY is a quality brand.
As to either its DVD-R or DVD+R , i was originally thinking of getting DVD-R because its hard to get DVD+R 8x , only DVD+R 16x exists in the online AUS shops i’ve looked at.
This is a better shop with better prices however still the same deal, OEM vs branded TY discs?
I hesitate to get 16x TY discs because I’ve heard of certain issues on this forum and plus they are much more expensive for me. 8X still seems to be the best choice and inkjet printable for less scratches on the surface.
Also what exactly is branded TY discs, i take it outsourcing ?
Here’s a scan of my G04
Wow, that’s lots of PIE! That’s worse than my TTH02 
Recent RITEKG04 is crappy, yes. 
TY is a Japanese company (Taiyo Yuden) making those discs, and no, they don’t outsource the actual disc manufacturing which is done in Japan. Relabeling and packaging is done in Taiwanese and Chinese plants, I’ve heard.
Unless you have a drive which is known to be compatible with 16x TY media (like newer LGs) get the 8x (YUDEN000 T02 (+R) or maybe TYG02 (-R)).
I have noticed no bigger differences between different brands than usual between different batches with 8x media, but on the other hand this could be because I’ve hardly got my hands on some 8x media.
But other users have experienced differences (Fuji behaving more like value line media and having short serials (8x), TDK media being worse than Plextor media (16x))…
That’s a Pioneer 107D scan. PIE reporting of these are as just as atypic as NEC reporting. On its own (without scans of different discs), this scan means about… nothing. 
[B]@narbe[/B]: Mentioning where you live would help others in helping you.
In the USA, Rima seems to be considered on this forum as the best source for unbranded TY. In Europe, the shop with the best reputation (still on this forum) is SVP.
About G04, the degrading behaviour is unpredictable. It happens with some discs and not others, even if they’re from the very same spindle. It’s a wise decision to transfer everything to more trustable media. Personally, rather than TYG02, I’d suggest Verbatim-branded MCC004, made in Taiwan rather than made in India.
EDIT:I have a DVR-107D, PX716A
Are MCC 02RG20 and MCC 003 comparable to TYG02’s if I use those burners?
And would I need a special burner to do scan tests on these ?
Would there be any difference in 8x and 16x media at the moment ?
Would you be so kind to reformulate this, as I don’t understand your question…???
PX716A should be able to provide some scans with the right tools.
