Suddenly my CDRW can't burn completely

Help! Out of the blue, my trusty Plextor CDRW 24/12/40 will no longer burn a full disk correctly. It appears to burn data disks, avis, etc to the end, but the disc is no longer readable by the Plextor or another CDRW drive. Thinking it was dying, I replaced the Plextor with a new Lite-on 48X CDRW. Same problem. I tried burning using both Nero and CDRWin (for bin/cues). The burned disks spin and the drives make funny sounds. WMP can’t recognize the avis.

Opening up the puter, I changed the secondary IDE cable, but the problem continues.

Both my CDRW and DVD drives are correctly being identified in the BIOS and in device manager.

The weird thing is that this started after a reboot in which I noticed the BIOS did not recognize the 2 devices attached to the secondary IDE controller, and stalled for awhile on this part of the boot. Rebooting led to correct recognition. Advanced properties remain set for DMA not PIO. Outside of removing Norton Antivirus and Utilities, then reinstalling it, no software or drivers have changed.

I’ve made about 10 coasters on the Plextor and the new Lite-on in a row now. Any help would be appreciated!

First you have to check if it’s not a faulty OS/driver thingy , so if it’s possible , reinstall your operating system , or use another harddisk and install some operating system there , preferably windows xp or 2000 (comes with much internal drivers).
make sure it’s updated.

if this still gives troubles , the hardware may be faulty , this can be anything , from a bad ide cable to a bad power supply , to a motherboard issue to whatever. It’s best to try to deduct the problem. This means you have to disable/remove all things possible and gradually add/reinstall them.

Try using the writer in safe mode and make sure that as less possible hardware and device drivers are running at the time.

Thank you for your suggestions! Looks like I’ve got some detective work to do!

No problemo , think of it as Cluedo (which thing killed which part at what time and where ?).

Please post your efforts , experiments and progress in this thread , it might benefit a lot of other people who might be dealing with the same problem in the future.

Try using the writer in safe mode

Or in DOS.

AHA! After trying all the above, and reinstalling Windows XP, it turns out most if not all of the 200 box of Khypermedia CDR I bought at OfficeMax were all bad! I brought them to a friend, and we burned coasters on them too!

Do NOT buy those blue bulk 200 boxes of this Khypermedia crap at Officemax! They even gave me a hard time when I returned them, and only did when I suggested they try burning one at the store!

CD burning is quite CPU intensive. One can do little or nothing on a computer while burning a CD. Perhaps you may have a CPU heat problem, as this type of problem is characteristic of the CPU overheating. Pull the heat sink off the CPU and clean it. Check and clean the CPU fan. Blow out the Computer case with a air compressor set at 30 Psi. Add new thernal grease before reinstalling the heat sink. Luck

I buy the cheapest CDs I can find, which most often are those with store rebates and always those silver in color. I have never had problems with the music quality of these cheap CDs. But then I never burn at the max speed of the Cd-platter or of the burner. I always prefer burning at 80% to account for variations in the CD-platter and CD-drive production line. I also avoid having light hit the burn-side of the Cd-platter less it destroy the dyes therein.

For the record, when CDs first came out, those with the Golden Ears protested that they sounded harsh. The problem was the extreme signal roll-off used above 20KHz. The harshness is caused by this roll-off. See following book and the author’s tests on partially deaf persons: Audio Quality: Requirements For High Quality Audio Equipment; Author: G. Slot 1971; Published: 1972 by Drake Publishers, Inc., 381 Park Avenue, New York, New York

The many claims that Blue CDs, Black CDs, Green CDs, or whatever color sound better than the silver CDs is pure myth than fact. There are no placebo tests to verify such. So, I don’t waste my time or money on such.

Luck with your next batch of CD-platters, but thinks twice about buying the colorful CD-platters. Retired acoustic engineer (plus a lot of other fields)

:bigsmile: :bigsmile: :bigsmile: OMFG, that’s the funniest thing I’ve heard all day. Burning CD is CPU intensive. :bigsmile: :bigsmile: :bigsmile: You should really check your data before dishing it out by perhaps reading the numerous CD writer reviews on the net. Last time I check, I had 5 programs running while burning some CDs, no lag.

The problem as said, is cheap media, a big no no if you want quality burns and backups that will last.

Originally posted by John375
CD burning is quite CPU intensive. One can do little or nothing on a computer while burning a CD. Perhaps you may have a CPU heat problem, as this type of problem is characteristic of the CPU overheating. Pull the heat sink off the CPU and clean it. Check and clean the CPU fan. Blow out the Computer case with a air compressor set at 30 Psi. Add new thernal grease before reinstalling the heat sink. Luck

CD burning should only be CPU intensive when:

  • installing the wrong chipset drives (or no drivers at all)
  • burning at high speeds without any DMA mode enabled
  • decoding data (e.g. MP3) on the fly
  • using a really old machine with a too fast burner (e.g. 486 with 48x burner ;))

Well, it the problem is solved and that what counts… :wink:

What on earth is meant by Quality Burns ? a) Is there some established criteria by which I can take two Burned CDs into a lab and examine them under a high quality microscope as to determine which burn is better. b) Or are you saying that the acoustic output of one Burned Cd is better than that of the other and, if that is the case, exactly what placebo listening tests did you do that would stand up to inspection. c) Or are you saying that one burned Cd is better than that of the other because it will last longer and, if this is the case, what simulated life tests did you do and how did you derive the simulated life tests (what formulas, that is). Without such clarification, your statement is without foundation. Suggest you read the referenced book on how to do good testing to make proper, sound judgments. It is a simple fun book to read, by an Audio Engineer that addresses what is Hi-Fi, how do you measure it, and what is needed to preserve it. If more references are needed, I can draw from some 2000 technical and graduate books in my personal library, though most can be quite difficult to read, understand, and master

As to Cheap Cd. Again what is the criteria ?. 1) Is the Cd cheap because of its cost and, if so, what is the established cost per platter of the so-called good Cds (that is, is it 10-cent, 30-cent, 80-cent per platter, etc). 2 ) Is it cheap because of the CD composition, that is the specific dye and substrate material used, and, if so, what are the good dyes, substrates, and the fabrication of such that have been established as being good by lab-test. 3) Is it cheap because somehow the Cd dyes and substrate laminates just fade and disintegrate over a short time and, if so, what specific lab tests where done to prove this and and how were the life-tests formulas derived. BTW, to understand the problem of finding durable and stable CD dyes, there are some furniture finishing books that address the search for stable, durable dyes over the last 150 years. (Best modern furniture stains, those most stable and durable under light, are Aniline dyes made from coal, yet none are perfect)

As to burning is CPU intensive. I have a Abit BH6 motherboard, a 450MHz Intel Cpu, a Sanyo burn-proof 24-10-40 CDRW-drive that will read-write just about anything and capable of a burn-proof gap of zero nano-seconds, and a partitioned 7200-RPM 40Gb Maxtor HD attached to the motherboard via an ATA-100 card. I use Nero, as well as other burning softwares as needed. When burning a Cd, any mouse movement across the screen is hesitant. Opening and-or running any other software while burning is likewise hesitant, and sometimes will even cause garbled Cds, in spite of the burn-proof. But for a good quantitative measure, set Nero to allow you to see the number of burn errors that were avoided by the burn-proof technology - - and then burn a Cd with and without other softwares running while tracking this number. BTW, the early versions of Nero before v5.5.9 had far fewer such errors, sometimes none at all, while recent versions of Nero have numbers like 100, 200, and above - - meaning that the recent Neros are totally dependent on burn-proof technology being present Some guy mentioned this long ago in another forum

Yes I read the CD-writer reviews. Years past, I also read the Car & Auto magazine reviews, the Hi-Fi-Stereo magazine equipment reviews, the Camera magazine reviews, and Consumer Reports on refrigerators, TV’s, washing machines, etceteras. I have fix all of these several times in the past, can diagnose any computerized car with a simple digital volt-ohm meter, and can tell you endless tales of the effects of acoustic standing waves. Moreover, I have spent years reading & approving Vendor reports on qualification of Military equipment, with many trashed. Perhaps, you and I just have different perspectives and experience on how to read test reviews.

I can have fun like this all day. Sort-of-like like arguing with someone in a bar about what the Government should do to correct the World’s problems Sure it gets boring