Strange result of firing with LiteOn LH-20A1L

LiteOn LH-20A1L firmware BL06
It scans well,
easily burn CDs and DVDs,
erases CD-RWs.
When you write a LightScribe CD.
He failed Despite use of Brand CD-Rs!
What could that be?
Can an optimized firmware solve the problem?

Has anybody an idea from the pros?

Are the discs physically scratched?

Is the lightscribe encoder ok? Have you tried to burn LS label on DVD? Which error exactly it reports?

The problem is only with the LH 20A1L.
The blanks are physically 100% ok.
The same CD-Rohling is with BenQ 1655 and Plextor PX-880SA
and Lightsribe o.k.

Has the laser too much energy?
PS.Can an optimized firmware solve the problem?

I don’t think anything can solve that. A long time ago, at least two people had the same issue:

It seems you cannot trust the LiteOn to make a good LightScribe label.

Thank you Albert.
This information is very interesting for me.
I have a other native language than English.
Therefore, my search in the Forum is also not so easy.
Thank you.

Sorry for misunderstanding the first post, I’ve read the forums from mobile phone and haven’t seen images.

I’ve never seen that strange labeling defect. Maybe it’s not even the firmware issue and 100% it’s not the fault of the laser head. Maybe it’s the fault of LS encoder? It reads the data from the positioning code near the center of disc and controls the exact disc position.

I have tested:
On a Z77 and a P67 Motherboard,the same problem.
LS encoder?
Can I change that?

LightScribe encoder is the small ensor located next to spindle motor in the drive and connected to main board of the drive with flat cable. Maybe this sensor is dusty or dirty, or just malfunctioning (never really seen it malfunctioning) - anyway, you need to disassembly the drive to clean this encoder (or replace it - but unfortunately it could be taken only from another (for example dead) drive with compatible encoder)…

Thanks for the tip.
This is an interesting idea.

Hi oldburny,
Few weeks ago I bought one DH-201L. I thought at that moment that I’ve been bought LH-20A1L, and not DH version.
Anyway, when I saw your trouble I decided to make a test.
So … because it was possible, I crossflashed DH-20A1L to LH-20A1L and used BL06 firmware.
Lightscribe software version used is
Lightscribing software is SureThing 4 SE (it was free some years ago)
I had no issues and the lightscribing was perfect.
The lightscribing process took about 25 minutes. I’ve heard some sounds at some moments … and I thought that I will reproduce your bug … but my disc is just perfect.
I used the same type of disc that you used: Verbatim DVD-R 16x MCC 03RG20.
It might be possible that you have some hardware issue and maybe you need to clean the lightscribing hardware component, or is just some bad lot.

… one more thign to add:
I did not use “green type” Lightscribe DVDs
I used the classic type. I’m not sure if it makes a difference

Hi Vasy.
I think now, it’s a special laser problem
with my LiteOn-LH 20A1L model.

Have you ever performed a laser cleaning by hand?

Hi oldburny,
On LiteON 20x family I only performed laser cleaning on LH-20A1H (LH-20A1L brother on PATA). I did this because one of my 20A1H had issues with recognizing DVD-R written discs. I did not resolve the issue, but as I remember I was able to make proper Lightscribe discs.
I also made laser cleanup on many other models: Plextor, Yamaha CD-RW, Pioneer, LG … etc.
If you are not sure how to do this, I would recommend these:

  1. Use cotton swabs
  2. Use isopropylic alcohol
  3. After you have the cotton swab with some alcohol on it’s head, just clean the laser smoothly and easy … in order not to put to many alcohol and also make the proper cleaning. Wait a minute or two after cleaning and then pack the unit.

Hope it helps

I don’t recommend isopropylic alcohol for lens cleaning - it can cause some “blurring” on its surface… Very soft and dry cotton swab is enough in most cases.

Oldburny, it’s 100% not the laser problem.

I think a good “buffing” with the cotton swab would clean the “film” sometimes left by isopropyl alcohol. Just let the alcohol dry completely before “buffing”.

Also the higher percent alcohol is better.
Instead of the usual 70% use the 92% . I haven’t seen it but even 100% might be available.

I’ve tried 99,7% Isopropylic alcohol (widely available here in Russia) - in 3 of 20+ cases usage of the Isopropylic alcohol slightly reduced the quality of burning and reading, so I don’t use it anymore.

I suppose any alcohol could damage certain plastics . So if a lens was made from one of those I can see how it would cause the problem you posted.
Maybe distilled water would be better. It would just take longer to dry.
The alcohol would only be necessary if there was some “grease” or other substance on the lens water wouldn’t remove.
It is also possible there is an aerosol lens or electronics cleaner that isn’t supposed to damage plastic.
If the lens is glass then alcohol shouldn’t cause a problem.
Does anyone know what the laser lenses are made of ?

Well, at least I know that lenses in CD and DVD drives were made of glass very long ago… AFAIK, even the most expensive Blu-Ray drives use non-glass lenses.