Strange Anamoly - anyone got an idea what's wrong?



have been burning for several years now…and doing dvds for the last year…recently…i have about 7 or 8 dvds that i burned that play fine in my dvd player…BUT…the SAME drive that burned them does not recognize them…everything shows the drive as being empty…i have never had this strange action occur before…so that is 7 or 8 dvds out of aroun 100 that i have burned all with the same hardware and software.

any suggs would be appreciated

thank you!!!


It could be that the burns were marignal in quality or the media was and your dvd writer isn’t a good reader. As the disk has gotten scratched and or degraded a little it has goten too bad for the drive to read. Your dvd player could be a beter reader than your burner.
It could be that your burner is starting to go (how old is it) but if that were the case I would think you would have more read problems than a few old disks.
What is the media code on the disks (use this free program to read the code)
Your best bet might be trying to find andother drive to use (friends computer or something) that can read it and burn a new copy on good media.
Another option would be to use something like isobuster
to read it and burn a new copy.
Check the media code on the disks first though. Knowing the quality of the media can tell you a lot.


thanks–i really appreciate the response…the discs i am referring to were just burned in the last week or so…not old or scratched or dirty…i used the identifier as you said but have no idea what all the ‘code’ info means at this time…my burner is a LiteOn DVDRW SOHW-812S and has the latest firmware update.

the dvds are CMC Magnetics AE1


For what it’s worth, I’ve got some of this media & in my NEC 2500a I get a very good quality burn so it’s likely it’s nothing to do with the media.
I have found with XP that I’ve experienced a similar issue but after a reboot the discs are recognised. If you can get your Liteon to recognise them I would suggest that you run Nero’s CD-Speed & do a quality check.Otherwise do you know someone with a liteon or Benq burner that can do this for you.


I would tend to agree. If it were 4x or slower cmc I would suspect the disk but 8x cmc media (cmcmage01/cmcmagae1) uses phillips dye and is pretty good. I have burned lots of the cmcmage01 with great results.
Don’t use cd speed for the disk quality test(unless you already have). You have a liteon so you might as well use kprobe. It was specificlly written for liteon drives and might be easier to use plus it can do ecc 8/1 error checking. Your media is good so now lets see if it burned well. Download kprobe (free)
Install it, start it, make sure that your liteon drive is selected at the top, make sure that one of the suspect disks that you have burned is in the drive. It should be automatically set for ecc1/8 4x. Don’t change these settings. Just click the little play arrow at the top. It will take the same amount of time as a 4x burn (about 14 minutes). Close the text window that pops up after it finishes (or save it if you like), click the little flopy disk icon at the top and save the scan as a png file. This scan will tell you how good the disk burned. click post reply on this thread (or go advanced by the quick reply window), make a post about what it is and click manage attacments below the window. add the scan that you saved to psot it so we can see how well the disk burned.


Hey ripit…

I’m surprised you’ve had any luck with the CMC Mags. I sure as hell haven’t and I still wouldn’t (at this point) rule out the media. Get ahold of some TY’s or other known quality media to verify FOR SURE that we’re not loking at this being the trbl. By the way rip, I’m almost a neighbor to ya now for 8 days. Came down to Scottsdale to get a little sun.:smiley: Anyway like I said, get another form of media and compare the two with KProbe. This will give us a better idea of whats up.



Yo Mark-

I can smell that fettid cigarette breath clear up here in Gods country-


btw - you forgott to tell 'em to get some good, reliable -R medias…


Pay backs a Bitch aint it. I don’t get mad, I get evener!!!:bigsmile: 78 and sunny in Scottsdale. :stuck_out_tongue:


By the way, you don’t know what Gods country is till you been to the land of 10,000 lakes.


Care to clue me in??? Was about to post and saw this!!!


I spend two hours drunkenly typing in a post to this thread (and a pm), and the you go and confuse me with your antics.
All I can say to the both of you, in the imortal words of monty python… I fart in your general direction!!!
I know, 30 min to edit and remove this post, beter sober up pretty quick!!!


Hey ripit…

I can’t explain that Goofball over there in the Bay area. Maybe it’s the Area or J.D. shipped him some Guiness. But it had nothing to do with you (this time:bigsmile: )


Yo ripit-

Just some crank in Scottsdale who comes from a frozen place near the Artic where they’re so dumb that they count potholes as lakes or something and send their kids to school with guns and stuff - and they go down to the local grocery store and buy Pacific salmond and take it home and tell their wife that they have been out fishing since 2am this morning - when really they were holed up at their girlfriends or out buying some crap +R media made in India- I don’t know ripit - it is all very confusing to me too…



Mike, its very confusing to me too but… I’m not sure I understand, are you anti-guns, anti salmon, anti+r…


Yo ripit-

Naw-Just having some fun at Sportsmells expense-



Just trying to clarify. You seemed so anti everything, it seemed very negative!!!
Sorry, just couldn’t resist that one!!!


Yo ripit-

See - that’s where everyone is just SO wrong-

It’s not Negative nor is it Minus - It is DASH as in -R

So that makes me DASHING - not Negative-


btw - are you taking over for Sportsmell while he is on vacation??


That wasn’t my intention and I’m not sure I’m up to the job but I’ll try to fill in, littleSatch7…


here is that scan, attached, as you had instructed me to do…as this was my first time doing this and not know ing the aspects of the software—i don’t know all about the results…BUT—even as dumb as i am in this area of the hobby…even i can see that the item stating there were 2871 errors ,eams something is bad somewhere!!!

and --somehow—i just KNEW that you folks would have one or more viable answers for me…these kinds of forums are fantastic for finding help anf gaining knowledge…so man very capable and knowledgeable people who spend so much time to assist others…again…from me—a BIG thank you and hoping i can return some faveor sometime for you all…

ps…nice to see you folks having fun in the thread, too!!!


single small spikes can sometimes be ignored (they can be caused when the drive is scanning the disk) but you have several spikes close together and they are very, very high!!! Further, you have large areas on the top graph that go very high. Ignoring the spikes, the burn is marginal at best. Taking the spikes into account, the burn is far beyond horrible. The limit for what is considered acceptable errors is 280 for the top graph and 4 for the bottom graph. The top graph represents errors that could be corected and the bottom represents errors that could not be corected.
here is more info on interpreting these scans
My guess is that your dvd player is managing to read past the spikes (I’m guessing it might skip or momentarilly freeze when it hits those points). Stand alone dvd players treat it as a video signal and can sometimes skip past small bad spots.
I’m not sure if you have been using the same kind of disks or diffrent disks but these particular disks are not burning well at all. Thier are basically two approaches you can take to corect the problem.
The first of course is try diffrent media.
The second would be try diffrent firmware. Changing your firmware can make a big diffrence. While newer versions of firmwares tend to be overall improved over older versions, sometimes they are not the best with a particular disk. You may find an older firmware that burns these disks good. Further, there is a lot you can do with liteon firmware. First the standard disclaimer. Useing official liton firmwares will not void your waranty. Using modified firmware will. their is a risk that you can kill your drive with a bad firmware flash (the risk is very small but it does happen). If the power momentarilly goes out or you power supply fluctuates or drops out momentarilly during the flash etc. it will probably kill the drive. You will have to decide if you want to take the risk (the risk is pretty small). You can kill your drive flashing official firmware in the same manner (but that is generally covered by waranty).
With that said you can stick with official firmware and try diffrent versions to see if it improves the burns or you can use some of the firmware tools for liteons (like omnipatcher). Thier are three major things you can do beyond official firmware.
The first is omnipatcher.
I highly recomend use of this tool. It will work with diffrent firmware versions so you cn try diffrent things andit is pretty easy to use. Defanatlly use the apply recomended media tweaks if you use this tool.
The second would be stratagy swaping using omni patcher.
I personally haven’t done this (the recomended tweaks and other settings with omnipatcher seem to do just fine for me). Lots of people seem to have done it with good results though.
Thei third is the eprom utility.
To me, this seems a little more dangerious thing to mess with as far as killing your drive but people seem to be using it safely. Read the thread and decide for yourself. If you chose the modified firmware approach, I would sugest just starting with the basic functions of omnipatcher for now (recomended tweaks, the check boxes and perhaps some speed improvments if you like).
One last thing (maybe I should have said this first). Many media companies do not make thier own media. Start thinking in terms of media codes like cmcmagae1, not brands. The media code identifies the true manufacture and model of the disk and it is the only way you can ensure getting good media. You can go to this website and type in a particular brand, speed and format of dvd to find out what media codes it might be (companies sometimes change the media they use but the info on this site is pretty accurate).
I know it all seems like a lot to absorb but with a little learning it gets easy, just take it one step at a time. You are already reading the media codes off your disks and scanning your disks for errors to see the burn quality afterall (and with a little reading you will be able to read the scans). In general the top graph should be substantially below the 280 limit (it is perfecty resonable to get burns that don’t go over 30) but dont consider it crap just because one little area goes up to 50 or 60 (it’s still way under limits).
On the bottom graph, if it stays under 4 its a good burn though a few single spikes that go a little higher (not mega high like yours) are ok too.
Fyi, you dont really need to worry about this now but at some point chech out the cdspeed transfer rate test. I didn’t mean to imply that cdspeed was bad (it has some great tools). I just meant to imply that kprobe is beter for the error scan since you have a liteon (you can do a cdspeed disk quality check and compare it to the kprobe if you like but I wouldn’t worry about that right away as they do basically the same thing).
Hope that helps some.