single small spikes can sometimes be ignored (they can be caused when the drive is scanning the disk) but you have several spikes close together and they are very, very high!!! Further, you have large areas on the top graph that go very high. Ignoring the spikes, the burn is marginal at best. Taking the spikes into account, the burn is far beyond horrible. The limit for what is considered acceptable errors is 280 for the top graph and 4 for the bottom graph. The top graph represents errors that could be corected and the bottom represents errors that could not be corected.
here is more info on interpreting these scans
My guess is that your dvd player is managing to read past the spikes (I’m guessing it might skip or momentarilly freeze when it hits those points). Stand alone dvd players treat it as a video signal and can sometimes skip past small bad spots.
I’m not sure if you have been using the same kind of disks or diffrent disks but these particular disks are not burning well at all. Thier are basically two approaches you can take to corect the problem.
The first of course is try diffrent media.
The second would be try diffrent firmware. Changing your firmware can make a big diffrence. While newer versions of firmwares tend to be overall improved over older versions, sometimes they are not the best with a particular disk. You may find an older firmware that burns these disks good. Further, there is a lot you can do with liteon firmware. First the standard disclaimer. Useing official liton firmwares will not void your waranty. Using modified firmware will. their is a risk that you can kill your drive with a bad firmware flash (the risk is very small but it does happen). If the power momentarilly goes out or you power supply fluctuates or drops out momentarilly during the flash etc. it will probably kill the drive. You will have to decide if you want to take the risk (the risk is pretty small). You can kill your drive flashing official firmware in the same manner (but that is generally covered by waranty).
With that said you can stick with official firmware and try diffrent versions to see if it improves the burns or you can use some of the firmware tools for liteons (like omnipatcher). Thier are three major things you can do beyond official firmware.
The first is omnipatcher.
I highly recomend use of this tool. It will work with diffrent firmware versions so you cn try diffrent things andit is pretty easy to use. Defanatlly use the apply recomended media tweaks if you use this tool.
The second would be stratagy swaping using omni patcher.
I personally haven’t done this (the recomended tweaks and other settings with omnipatcher seem to do just fine for me). Lots of people seem to have done it with good results though.
Thei third is the eprom utility.
To me, this seems a little more dangerious thing to mess with as far as killing your drive but people seem to be using it safely. Read the thread and decide for yourself. If you chose the modified firmware approach, I would sugest just starting with the basic functions of omnipatcher for now (recomended tweaks, the check boxes and perhaps some speed improvments if you like).
One last thing (maybe I should have said this first). Many media companies do not make thier own media. Start thinking in terms of media codes like cmcmagae1, not brands. The media code identifies the true manufacture and model of the disk and it is the only way you can ensure getting good media. You can go to this website and type in a particular brand, speed and format of dvd to find out what media codes it might be (companies sometimes change the media they use but the info on this site is pretty accurate).
I know it all seems like a lot to absorb but with a little learning it gets easy, just take it one step at a time. You are already reading the media codes off your disks and scanning your disks for errors to see the burn quality afterall (and with a little reading you will be able to read the scans). In general the top graph should be substantially below the 280 limit (it is perfecty resonable to get burns that don’t go over 30) but dont consider it crap just because one little area goes up to 50 or 60 (it’s still way under limits).
On the bottom graph, if it stays under 4 its a good burn though a few single spikes that go a little higher (not mega high like yours) are ok too.
Fyi, you dont really need to worry about this now but at some point chech out the cdspeed transfer rate test. I didn’t mean to imply that cdspeed was bad (it has some great tools). I just meant to imply that kprobe is beter for the error scan since you have a liteon (you can do a cdspeed disk quality check and compare it to the kprobe if you like but I wouldn’t worry about that right away as they do basically the same thing).
Hope that helps some.