SONY CRX-120E bad firmware flash


My name is SONY CRX120E, I’m a 4x4x24 CD recorder and I was working well until the day my stupid owner’s friend decided to flash my firmware with the HP 9300 thinking that after I will do my job faster…
That stupid guy used the SONY CRX-100E flasher program with the bios of the HP 9300, the flasher indicated “FLASHED WITH SUCCESS” and then after rebooting the computer, nor the BIOS nor WINDOWS XP detected me and the only thing I am able to do now is to show up my orange LED when the computer is booting.
And that’s all.

OK ok, I have been trying to be funny, but it’s really not, damn, I really don’t want to buy a new burner for my friend.
I have tried the MKFLASH program, but it seems that it freeze just after the start.
I have heard about PFLASH, I just downloaded it now, but I think it won’t do anything since the burner is not recognized anymore by the computer’s BIOS.

I have seen a lot of tricks like moving the jumpers or something so, but all are only for the LITE ON burners, I already opened the burner, and there is absolutly no jumpers inside nor outside.

There were a few guys on this forum talking about a webpage (which is broken) where we can find pictures to how fix that damn thing, but they don’t reply to my email and all the link are dead.

I am in deep shit eek: , please, give me a hand to pull me out !

See ya

:o :o :

You’re fucked.

I think so since 1: mtkflash do not work with oak chipset(it’s in the sony) and I’ve never seen such a program for oak chipsets.

Sorry, I don’t think there is anything to do…

At least not that I know of.

Tell me if you finds a way to fix it since I want to know if there is a way.

You (OC FREAK) said, you never seen a program able to flash burner with Oak chipset. :confused:

Yes, there is one, the official one from sony :stuck_out_tongue:
I’m thinking, maybe someone can Hack it to make it possible to flash dead drive and overpass the message “CD BURNER IS BUSY”
maybe, I don’t know …

OK, don’t blame me if what I say is crazy, I just wake up …

Again, if anyone can help, would be nice .

see ya

Have to agree with OC-Freak.
There is no way that you can even attempt a flash of a device that the bios does not see.

Originally posted by pokouze
[B]You (OC FREAK) said, you never seen a program able to flash burner with Oak chipset. :confused:

Yes, there is one, the official one from sony :stuck_out_tongue:
I’m thinking, maybe someone can Hack it to make it possible to flash dead drive and overpass the message “CD BURNER IS BUSY”
maybe, I don’t know …

OK, don’t blame me if what I say is crazy, I just wake up …

Again, if anyone can help, would be nice .

see ya [/B]

Which would be this program therefore badly has a HP8200i and an inoperative LG8080B for update of sucessido flash?


I too experienced the RED light always on after the flash indicated it had
been successful. I searched the WEB, looking for anyone who had
experienced the resurrection of the pooched HP8520i, but found no one
who had been able to restore it to health only others with the same problem.
I looked for EEPROM informationbut found very little useful info. After 24 hours
of searching and chastising myself for trying to flash the CDRW, I started to theorize that
the ‘BUSY’ message(RED light), I was experiencing was that the CDRW was
trying to do something with the hardware, and likely the EEPROM could be
flashed again, by removing the connections between the EEPROM and the drive
mechanics for the unit. I also figured that HP had to use the IDE
connection to flash the EEPROM when they received it from SONY. Since I had
an older computer without any hardware but memory, floppy drive and monitor
card, I figured I had nothing to lose, and about $150.00 to gain. I used my
old Pentium computer since it was easier for me to test my theory without a
lot of changes to the newer computer. I have documented my instructions for
the process of separating the Circuit Board from the drive mechanism,
flashing the CB with the 9300_10C.BIN file, reassembling and testing.
Before you start.

  1. You will need about 2 hours of uninterrupted time.
  2. Make sure that you have a set of Phillips head screw drivers.
  3. If you are not familiar with component assembly and disassembly ask
    someone to help who is familiar.
  4. Have a DOS boot floppy disk( I used a WIN95 recovery disk) to start the
    computer, and the Flash program and BIN file on another diskette if there
    is not enough space on the Startup floppy diskette.
  5. Check the BIOS, I have tried to eliminate as much as possible any
    setting that may cause a problem. Because I used an old computer with very
    little hardware I set both the primary and secondary IDE controller to
    NONE in the BIOS but you will only need to set the secondary to NONE.
    The computer’s BIOS setting can be restored, just keep track if they haven’t already been changed.
  6. Proceed with caution. Try to visualize what I have done before
    attempting it yourself. To prevent static electricity ground yourself.

My Instruction for Disassembling the HP8250i.(None of this information came
from HP or SONY.)

  1. Disconnect the IDE and Power cables from the CDRW unit.

  2. Remove screws holding it in the rack, and slide the CD unit out of the

  3. Remove the 4 screws holding the base to the sides of the unit. One screw
    is under the WARRANTY SEAL. The faceplate has a plastic clip that can be
    depressed enough to allow the metal base to be removed from the chassis
    unit, exposing the Circuit Boards(CB). On my unit there were two CB’s
    joined with a black felt-like tape. If you need to, the faceplate can be
    moved away from the chassis by inserting a piece of metal, such as a large
    paper clip that has been straighten, into the small hole on the right side
    of the slide-out tray. There is a release mechanism within the unit that
    will allow the tray to release and be pulled out, permitting the outer
    faceplate to slide forward after the three clips that hold it onto the
    chassis have been depressed in order to release it.

  4. The main CB is about 2/3 to 3/4 of the length of the overall unit. This
    CB has three ribbon cables attached which must be removed to allow the CB
    to be removed from the chassis. The connections also have the black
    felt-like tape which must be removed. Peel the tape back from the beige
    connector, and slide the black plastic cover that protects the ribbon cable
    away from the beige connector, enough to expose the ribbon cable.

  5. With a soft tipped felt pen, preferably water colour based, mark the
    ribbon cable just where it enters the beige connector to help identify how
    far into the connector it must slide when you replace it. If you don’t have this kind of
    marker, just leave it unmarked, but note how far the ribbon cable must be pushed into
    the connector.

  6. Locate the beige connector’s locks. These are ‘L’ shaped black plastic
    slides located on each side of the connector, that need to be pushed
    parallel to the ribbon cable, and in the direction that you will need to
    pull the ribbon cable out of the beige connector. Use a magnifying glass if
    you are having trouble seeing these locks. Be very careful, try to use only
    a piece of plastic if you need something besides your fingernail to push on
    these locks. You do not want to scratch the CB or the cable. Once the ‘L’ shaped locks
    have been slid back, the ribbon cable will easily slide out of the beige
    connector. Repeat the process for each one of the three connectors. One of
    my connectors did not have the plastic slider protecting the ribbon cable
    and connector but all three connectors had black tape and the ‘L’ shaped
    locks. Be careful with the removal of the ribbon cable, do not use anything
    that may puncture the cable.

  7. Once all the connectors have been separated from the ribbon cable,
    remove any extra tape holding the two CBs together.

  8. Now remove the two screws holding the large CB to the chassis. There is
    another ribbon cable inside holding the CB to the chassis. On my unit the connector
    did not have the locks, it was just a tight fit. Raise the CB away from the chassis and
    separate the ribbon cable from the CB. Again, be careful. The CB should now
    be free from the chassis.

  9. In order to use the computer to reprogram the EEPROM, make the jumper on
    the CB to be the Master if it wasn’t already. This CB must be the only
    connection on the secondary IDE channel. The CDRW on my computer was set as
    the slave and may be a reason the flash failed. In order to protect the
    CB from possible grounding to the computer chassis, after you connect the
    IDE and Power cables, insulate the CB from contacting anything but these
    cables. This is very important.

  10. You should be ready to start up the computer in DOS mode support from a
    floppy. As the boot process continues, do not select CD support if it is
    offered, as I think this is may be another reason that the Flash seems to work for
    some and not others.

  11. Once the A: prompt is displayed, insert the floppy with the flash
    program and bin file. Type the command(shown in bold) at the A: prompt
    A:>UPDCRX21 9300_10C.BIN /AT /2 /M
    UPDCRX21 which is the name of the program that does the flashing of the file
    9300_10C.BIN is the file that updates the EEPROM. If you have a different BIN file,
    verify it will work with your unit. I had downloaded the program separate from the BIN, but
    both were in ZIP files, at WWW.CDRINFO.COM/tips/hardware_oc.shtml
    /AT since this is an AT compatible device
    /2 since you are on the secondary IDE channel
    /M since you have set the jumper for MASTER.
    The display will identify your current version and level of the flashed
    It will then prompt for you to update by pressing ‘Y’

  12. When the process starts do not touch anything until the message is
    displayed indicating the update is complete, just like it did before. Only
    this time instead of a Red light, we hope it will be a green light.

  13. Shut the computer down.

  14. Remove the connections from the CB.

  15. Reverse the disassemble instructions.

  16. Put the CD unit into the computer and connect the IDE and Power cables.

  17. Insert the DOS startup disk and restart the computer. Even though CD
    support is not enabled, the GREEN light should be flashing. If it is still
    RED, then the unit is likely unable to be restored to health.
    With a GREEN light, remove the Floppy, set the BIOS correctly for your
    devices on the IDE secondary channel, and reboot to Windows.

  18. You should now have a functioning HP9300 CDRW unit. Windows now reports it
    can write at 10X. I tested it by writing an Audio CD without errors.

I made everything that you says!



I experienced these same symptons you described. My procedure worked for my unit. In your description
you identify it as a CRX120E. But you identify using the HP9300 firmware to flash. Do you have an HP
CDRW of at least an HP8200 model? My understanding is the flash program and update file will only
work with the HP8200 or the HP8250.
Are you certain that your unit is a SONY and not the Phillips unit?
Did you check the description provided at the CDRINFO site?
HP packaged both Phillips and SONY as the HP82xx series CDRW.
There should be 4 open 12 mm long by 2 mm wide slots below the slide out tray on a SONY.
I also found that the CHIPs on the Circuit Board were made by SONY. My serial number indicated
that my unit is a SONY and can use the 9300_10C.BIN flash. There is a flash available for the Phillips
model but you will need to search some of the sites to locate it.
When do you receive the “drive busy” message? I am assuming this occurs when you try to
flash the separated Circuit Board. Since I cannot see your setup, make sure that the IDE cable is
correctly orientated with the Red stripe on the cable attached to the number one pin on the CB
On my board, the number one pin is adjacent to the power connection. The red power cable is attached
to the power connection and is adjacent to the number one pin on the IDE connection,
so both red wires should be side by side.
The only way that I can imagine that this is still showing busy is that the cables are not connected correctly,
or that there has been internal damage to the board, and it is shorted, causing the circuit to think it is busy.
IF it is shorted, then the unit is damaged and must be replaced.


nice try and very nice detailed explanation, but …
I have done all the things you said and it still shows the BUSY DRIVE message when I try to flash it.

Thanks anyway :slight_smile:

ps: again, if anyone can, safe my drive, safe me 150 bucks!