Reduced the vibration and got a bonus!



Inspired by Bichi’s pictures here and here :flower: I decided to pull apart a high vibration 16W1P drive to see what I could do. It had the later spindle motor, like the November model, and just the two spindle bracket suspension screws, like in bichi’s picture of the September model.

I ended up fitting a ruffly 0.5mm thick pressed washer under the head of each of the two mounting screws. The washers were a larger size than the head of the screw and covered the entire top of the silicone mount.

The drive now has noticeably less vibration when used at the 16x RPM, however what I wasn’t expecting was a noticeable improvement in the drives quality. :eek: :smiley: I can only put it down to not having so much vibration, with the stiffer spindle suspension, allowing the drive to burn and/or read better. The leadin time seems to be slightly faster by a few seconds as well, but this may have just been the discs I have tried so far, or perhaps the drive can lock on to the media better, with less vibration.

I’ve attached the first two burns after fitting the washers. The MCC004 only had 128 PIF errors before the slight defect at the outside of the disc, which is amazing for this batch of media.

Note: Please don’t try this at home :p, unless you are very competent at carrying out this sort of thing. There are things that can be broken and things that shouldn’t be touched inside an optical drive and of course, you will void your warranty. You have been warned. :iagree:

Also see this post below:


Wow great job!!

I hope you made a video of the whole process :wink:


Interesting approach. Looks like you got good results. I have seen a mix of these spindle motors being used in these drives. I have 2 November units sitting here with each type motor. It’s likely a case of whatever one they have on hand during assembly.


Great results, maybe you can show us some pictures. I didn’t know 16W1P drives used KL05 firmware? he he…


Ouch! Three burns, scans (quality and 16x read) later the drive failed. Appears to be the spindle motor drive chip. The tray is reluctant to eject or load (green light comes on but nothing happens). When it does load the disc, the laser lights, but the disc doesn’t spin up at all.

I’m doubtful that the spindle suspension mod caused this but you never know, so be warned. I also didn’t take any static precautions, because I’m at home, so this is a possibility as well, but I’m pretty sure I never touched any circuitry.

During the short time I’ve had this drive, a few times the tray has ejected with the disc still spinning in the tray. :eek: So I’m more suspicious that there has been a problem all along with the spindle control chip and this was an indication that the spindle motor was not braking properly.

RIP 16W1P #1 :sad:

EDIT: After trying the washers in another drive I can now conclude, after lots of burns and reads, that the cause of this drive dying, was as I suspected, nothing to do with having the washers fitted.


Man that sucks, and you were getting better burns with it…



Sorry to hear about your dead drive, C0deKing! :frowning: :flower:


Sorry about your drive. Maybe need to rename title of this thread.


Codeking: Would you mind taking a picture of your mod or mark the screws on bichis picture where you added the washers?


Sorry about your loss C0deKing. :sad:

My add to this action; don’t even think about it.
Why? Simply because this is not a good idea from a technical point of view. Those two brown washers (at front) are actually two soft rubber vibration damphers, very soft, and ABS (Auto Balancer Spindle) needs these to work propperly and to minimize eventual unbalance from badly balanced disc.

The few “good scans” C0deKing got and “less vibrations” can’t be in all related to this “mod”. :disagree:

Sorry guys, I don’t think it’s a good idea to post any more pictures about this. rolling56 already suggested altered thread topic and I would also like a warning added. :wink:


I think it should’ve been good experience, after doing so many softmods it’s time to move onto hardmods :smiley:

And then OEM DVD writers have gotten so dirt cheap, makes it affordable to “pimp our drive”


I don’t see any need for a title change and I will be carrying out this same mod on the replacement drive if it has a vibration problem. A clear warning is already posted.

pinto2, I think you are over reacting. The washer just made the suspension slightly firmer and cut down on the amount of orbiting the spindle could do, and in return cut down on the overall vibration. I have no reason to lie about this. Using the same batches of media the vibration was significantly reduced. I’m not suggesting everyone try this but this is a technical forum and I’m reporting my findings.

The washers were fitted under the head of the two large screws at the very bottom of bichi’s pictures here. I think the thickness of the washer could be quite important here so I will check their thickness with the vernier tomorrow when I am back at work and report back. I’ll also show some pictures of the washers and where they are fitted.

I’ve also found out something else which may not have helped with the failure. The external enclosure power pack is putting out 14V on the 12V line. Might not of helped with the eventual failure of the motor control IC.


So you can still RMA it?

Where did you buy the washers BTW?


Sorry if my post above was kinda negative C0deKing, but I had no intention to criticize your work or your findings (positive or negative).
It’s from a general vibration phenomena perspective above post should be read. Stiffing up the damping material we are talking about here will not bring anything good in the long run. VASR (Vibration Absorber System) and ABS (Auto Balancer Spindle) are there for good reason.

I’ll take an example to illustrate the problem.
A friend has an older car with unbalanced front wheel that causes worn out stearing joint and now vibrations are felt all the way to steering wheel. He is not fully aware what causes vibrations but finds steering rod connected to wheel having big tolerance and he starts to tighten the nut on bolt for steering joint. “Sweet” he say to his wife when riding next day; “I feel almost no vibrations”.
He drives for some weeks and the vibrations are back at same level as before. He tries once again to tighten the nut on joint but now the joint even has bigger tolerance then before and he also finds that the nut already is at bottom of bolt thread and the joint completely worn out. Pitty he says to his wife; I thought I fixed “the problem”.

Now you maybe think “what in h**l” I’m trying to tell you with this example. Well, something very simple and a few of you have already figured it out. [B]If we want to diminish vibrations/unbalance, the source of vibrations has to be adressed, not the effects ie. vibrations per se.[/B] Wrong action here will make the unbalance even worse.

I know nothing about rotating mechanical parts in Lite-On drives, even less about what calculations, testing and adjustments Lite-On engineers have put down when designing latest “ultraspeed” writers, but I’m sure they are the best one (and have the best knowledge) how to adress this kind of issues.
Dismantling the drive and fixing with it by your own might look simple but there is a big risk the drive will be damaged out of any chances for repair.
Better just post a suggestion to Lite-On engineers.


Interesting discussion, though I think I’ll leave the modding to the braver for now. :stuck_out_tongue:

I often swap out several different burners externally in an open USB ‘enclosure’ with the drives exposed and basically just sitting outside of any real enclosure at all. Of all of my burners under these conditions, my 165P6S vibrates the most by far, though it doesn’t seem to perform out of the ordinary for this drive from what I can tell. Adding weight to the drive, bracing it, etc. and it still wants to vibrate quite a bit. The vibrations naturally vary depending on the speed that discs are spinning, but the amount of vibration that I can feel from it seems unusually high at times so I’m all for finding a solution to it, assuming it does not create additional strain on the drive.


I could but I won’t. I purchased an 18A1P (Nov 2006, MIC) today to replace it. It’s very quiet and has minimal vibration.

It was a set of pressed/punched washers that I’ve had for years. I’ll post some pictures and dimensions, hopefully tomorrow.

pinto2, I’ve been involved in the electronic design business for many years, both hardware and software. My observations were that the suspension was too light, as the disc would vibrate when changing frequencies and at certain frequencies. This is a classic sign of something being under damped (under controlled). Since in this case the source of the vibration could not be corrected the only option was to change the suspension. As it appeared to be under damped I decided to stiffen the suspension, which did significantly improve the problem.

I agree that this may load other components in the mechanism. The most likely would be the spindle bearing. Like crossflashing and using patched firmware, people will have to weight up if they want to take this risk or not, but that should be their choice. :wink:


Right! This ist cdrFREAKS, not cdrCAUTIOUS :wink:


I could have swore i saw C0deKing post he had no idea how to crossflash these 16X/18X drives to 20X drives :bigsmile:

I can see drives going back to Lite-On in pieces now and not just bad flashes :stuck_out_tongue:


he got a tip from… himself maybe :wink:


Hehe, if you’re referring to this post, I think you should read it again. :wink: