Recommend A DVD and Blu-Ray Burner

I am looking for buying advice on both a DVD burner and blu-ray burner. I have no use for a bd burner but see it as an possible future investment. However I am not sure I can splurge for a bad burner so I am also looking for DVD burner advice. I burn far more audio CDs then DVDs. My CDs use flac as the source almost exclusively. I tend to stick with good quality media like Verbatim and Sony.

Most of us like LG and especially Pioneer blu ray burners for quality of the burns with blu ray media. I’m personally looking at the Pioneer 207MBK at Newegg, but they seem to be less than eager to put the drive on sale even in this season.

I’d stay away from Lite-on blu ray burners and the Lite-on clones (Asus and Plextor) if you are burning cds primarily.

There aren’t many current dvd burners that are loved around here. Every time one of these threads comes up, older burners that are getting very hard to find are mentioned, like the Optiarc 7200s or the Samsung SH-S243N.

Verbatim used to be a good enough standard to recommend, but we generally advise people to avoid their “Life Series” discs and stick to those with the AZO designation. Sony isn’t what it used to be as far as quality of discs. I recently had to purchase some when I needed a cakebox of discs in a hurry. Those turned out to be Ritek F16-01 mid code, and only one of my four drives could write to them well (that drive was my old LG blu ray burner).

Don’t you love the how the one thing you really need in the x-mas season is the one thing that doesn’t go on sale? :stuck_out_tongue: I was holding out for a WD 3TB Caviar Green but no luck with NewEgg,TD, or Amazon. :frowning:

When it comes to the Sony AD-7280S-0B in some places it sports the Optiarc name and in others it doesn’t. Is this a concern? Either way it was super easy to find. All the major retailers have it in stock.

One thing I forgot to mention that annoys me with my current burner, sometimes when I rip indy content, which comes on any number of brand of media, it always seems to come out that scenes(might just be fast moving scenes) have fuzzy edges around people. It is not motion blur because it does not appear in the source material. Is it possible to say if this is something that would be present on the 7280S mentioned above? If memory serves me right, my previous burner, a trusty Pioneer 114(or something like that, last model they made before making some sort of transition).

I have no experience with this drive, but judging from the shear number of reviews, most of which are positive, for a DVD burner I’d go with the ASUS DRW-24B1ST.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204

And you’re right about older Pioneer DVD-RW drives. I own a 115, a 116 and a 117.

For a Blu-ray burner, the last one I’ve bought is a Pioneer BDR-205 and it’s been very trusty, but from what I’ve read here the more recent ones like the BDR-207MBK seem trusty as well.

[QUOTE=Some Random Guy;2670677]I have no experience with this drive, but judging from the shear number of reviews, most of which are positive, for a DVD burner I’d go with the ASUS DRW-24B1ST.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204

And you’re right about older Pioneer DVD-RW drives. I own a 115, a 116 and a 117.
[/QUOTE]
I see that is a super popular and very well rated drive, but I am not sure I can convince myself to go ASUS unless this is a rebranded/rebadged drive from a quality chip maker/OEM. I just do not trust/like ASUS from personnel experience. Heck I won’t even go with MSI after getting 2 or 3 DOA mobos in a row earlier this year, but MSI is not in the burner market, so I won’t rant on that here. :stuck_out_tongue:

As for Pioneer, wasnt the 114 or 115 the last drive before the quality suffered due to a chipset(?) change?

At this point, I am pretty certain I will not splurge for a blu-ray burner. It’s twice the cost for basically no advantage in my case.

I think the 117 was the last Pioneer dvd burner before they went to QSI as their manufacturer. The models produced since then have been decidedly mediocre. What little effort Pioneer has been putting into optical drives recently has been concentrated on their blu ray burners instead.

Sony owned Optiarc entirely there at the end, so if you are looking to buy the 7280s, it doesn’t matter about the name on it. Sony is getting out of the retail optical drive business though, so the ones out now are the last we’ll see from Optiarc. The 7280s is an ok drive…just not outstanding in any way.

Edit:

Fuzzy edges around people

When you say rip, do you mean a straight transfer of the existing video, or are you converting to another format? Re-encoding will always lose a bit of quality, but it is hard to see if the encoding is done well. You may simply be using too little bitrate for the video…trying to compress too much. Could be something else of course…I’m shooting in the dark a bit here.

[QUOTE=Kerry56;2670789]
When you say rip, do you mean a straight transfer of the existing video, or are you converting to another format? Re-encoding will always lose a bit of quality, but it is hard to see if the encoding is done well. You may simply be using too little bitrate for the video…trying to compress too much. Could be something else of course…I’m shooting in the dark a bit here.[/QUOTE]

I am ripping DVD->MKV using Handbrake. I don’t believe it is bitrate related because I have tried playing the the presets, and no matter what the end result is the same. I am well aware of the technical aspects of encoding, compression, bitrate, etc. I blamed it on poor quality media not playing nice with my drive because the same disc ripped fine on my Pioneer, but I may have been using AutoGK and xvid back then. Come to think of it though, if memory serves me right - and my lite on is officially dead in the watter so I can not test, but the ripping application played some role. If I ripped via imgburn, it did not appear in the ISO rip. If I used something like DVD Rebuilder Pro and CCE on low settings the effect was there in an ISO rip. In thei nstance of Handbrake I can not recall for sure if I was ripping DVD->ISO->MKV or DVD->MKV directly through handbrake.

Another interesting thing, I don’t understand with this Lite On burner. I took some AAC files, that were demuxed from youtube videos(because there is no official release to media for the content and may never be, and in some cases the older stuff, the artist himself isn’t sure how to find it at this point) and burned them to some cheapo memorex cd-rs(They were on sale so I figured I would role with the punches this time around as it was theo nly brand in stock). In my 2003 Trailblazer with OEM head unit, some of the tracks(edited using free audio dub) would cut off and jump to the next song. The thing is, the jump wasn’t even happening at a place where I had cut audio. Well I picked up a pack of Verbatims after getting a bunch of coasters out of the Memorex, and burned the exact same files to a Verbatim CD-R. The disc plays back fine in my Trailblazer. Is this a burner problem, software problem(burned with l3b in linux), disc problem or head unit problem?

As for the Sony…let me put it this way, how does it compare to the Lite On in my sig? What about a Lite On iHAS424? If either can atleast break even if not excel beyond the iHAS324, I will live through it and maybe I will pick up a blu-ray burner next year about this time.

Ripping from a disc to an ISO or files on the hard drive should not give a different output from one application to another. The files are digital and you either get all of it or you don’t. Moving the data from one medium to another does not affect it adversely, unless the rip is incomplete. (Decryption issues not counted in this of course; if the decrypter is not up to the task, then all bets are off on what all gets transferred)

Any differences you see in output after compression or conversion to another format is due to that process, rather than the rip itself. And there are many ways of introducing artifacts into the output. CCE was notorious for mosquito noise added to mpeg2. At low bitrates, I’d take HCenc any day.

If you are doing conversion to H264 in Handbrake and using High Profile and CQ settings, drop the value from default of RF 20 down to 18 or less. Expect longer encoding times. Or switch to 2 pass encoding.

Your cd problem sounds like poor media since you solved it entirely using different discs.

Can’t compare the Sony to the Lite-on I’m afraid. I am not a Lite-on fan and simply don’t keep up with their drives at all.

[QUOTE=Xplorer4x4;2670784]I see that is a super popular and very well rated drive, but I am not sure I can convince myself to go ASUS unless this is a rebranded/rebadged drive from a quality chip maker/OEM. I just do not trust/like ASUS from personnel experience. [/QUOTE]
The ASUS DRW-24B1ST drive is a rebadged iHAS324 ;). Either an A or B drive. Probably a B drive from what stock is left.

Crossflashed to a LO, its my favorite ripper. Burns well, too.

I’ve experienced similar CD problems, solved with better quality media.

I have a distinct preference for the ASUS/Lite-on over Optiarc 7240 or 5280/7280 for burning or ripping.

Are any of your BluRay burner recommendations compatible with M-Disc? I just read about that product for the first time today…

Also, OT (so I’ll accept the recommendation to begin a new thread or read a previous discussion link if suggested): Does anyone have a recommendation for a facility to transfer 8MM videotape, 35MM slides, and printed photographs to BluRay? I located www.just8mm.com for the videotape transfers, haven’t asked if they provide the other two types of services yet.

@AlvinM
The LG WH14NS40K is a blu ray burner with M-disc compatibility. Should be a good choice as a burner, as the LG blu ray drives have been pretty consistent. Can’t comment on the M-discs however, as I have no experience with them.

You should probably start a new thread for your transfer question. The Newbie Forum would be fine for that.

[QUOTE=AlvinM;2670907]Are any of your BluRay burner recommendations compatible with M-Disc? I just read about that product for the first time today…
[/QUOTE]

By compatible I presume you mean burning as well as reading.

As far as I’m aware LG drives are the only ones at present that can burn M-Disc.

Oh and welcome to the forums by the way. :flower:

[B]Wombler[/B]

[QUOTE=Wombler;2670917]By compatible I presume you mean burning as well as reading.

As far as I’m aware LG drives are the only ones at present that can burn M-Disc.

Oh and welcome to the forums by the way. :flower:

[B]Wombler[/B][/QUOTE]

Thanks Wombler & Kerry…

I looked at the LG… Couldn’t find something similar in their product line at newegg that is external/portable… Have I overlooked it?

[QUOTE=AlvinM;2670920]Thanks Wombler & Kerry…

I looked at the LG… Couldn’t find something similar in their product line at newegg that is external/portable… Have I overlooked it?[/QUOTE]

No problem, Kerry and I actually posted at the same time. :slight_smile:

Check out this page which lists the officially M-Disc compatible models.

There are a few external/portable models listed in there.

[B]Wombler[/B]

[QUOTE=Wombler;2670924]No problem, Kerry and I actually posted at the same time. :slight_smile:

Check out this page which lists the officially M-Disc compatible models.

There are a few external/portable models listed in there.

[B]Wombler[/B][/QUOTE]

Thanks… I was at that page earlier… Am I understanding correctly that some of you avoid Lightscribe? If so, that’s good enough for me… Otherwise, I’m also looking for Blu ray, so the internal LG might be the only one available… FWIW, apparently M-Disc doesn’t manufacture Blu ray blank discs yet…

[QUOTE=Kerry56;2670916]@AlvinM
The LG WH14NS40K is a blu ray burner with M-disc compatibility. Should be a good choice as a burner, as the LG blu ray drives have been pretty consistent.[/QUOTE]

I ordered an LG WH14NS40 blu-ray burner drive a few days ago from TigerDirect since I found they have a great low price deal right now, only $59.99 with free shipping.
My old LG WH10LS30 died recently after a little over 2 years of use - it won’t detect any disc now.
So this time I also bought a 3 year extended warranty from SquareTrade for the new drive with a 35% off coupon code they offered last week, so it was only around $7.
So if the new drive dies like the last one in only a little over 2 years, I would get the full price refunded if they couldn’t fix it…

[QUOTE=Kerry56;2670817] (Decryption issues not counted in this of course; if the decrypter is not up to the task, then all bets are off on what all gets transferred)
[/QUOTE]

The one thing I can say for sure is encryption/decryption was not a factor.

[QUOTE=deanwitty;2670821]The ASUS DRW-24B1ST drive is a rebadged iHAS324 ;). Either an A or B drive. Probably a B drive from what stock is left.

Crossflashed to a LO, its my favorite ripper. Burns well, too.

I’ve experienced similar CD problems, solved with better quality media.

I have a distinct preference for the ASUS/Lite-on over Optiarc 7240 or 5280/7280 for burning or ripping.[/QUOTE]
Good to know! Now I am more open to an ASUS drive.

However, could you, or any one for that matter elaborate on the difference between an A,B, or LO (crossflashed)model?

What about the ASUS DRW-24B[B]3[/B]ST? Reason I ask is it is selling for something like $23 from my arch nemesis(lol) Best Buy, and I have a $25 BB gift card burning a whole in my wallet.

24B3ST is a rebadged iHAS324 B or C drive, if I remember correctly. But it’s still going to be a LiteOn, and there should still be methods to crossflash if you so desire.

Well that’s good to know, but I still don’t know the difference between and A,B,C, and D model.

The DRW-24B1ST is available through Amazon, and the 24B3ST through BB. If I don’t use the BB card for a 24B3ST or any other drive available via BB, I will just resell the BB gift card as I do not shop there(both the obvious reasons, and the incredibly poor selection in store forcing me to use bb.com, and if I am going to use the net, why not go through a reputable place like Amazon and save a few bucks to).

It isn’t easy to point out differences. The hardware is different, but they are roughly equivalent in terms of specifications. Unless you had a special need (which you would know about), finding a certain revision is unnecessary.