Really Good CPU Cooler..?

Hello :slight_smile:

Still in the quest to getting my PC faster, i have found that i can actually overclock that little machine of mine quite impressively.

It’s a socket 754 SMD “Sempron 2800+” which originally runs at 1,600 MHz. Currently i’m running it at 1,800 MHz and it’s temperature is only ONE degree higher (44 vs 43 idle, 47 vs 46 after running at 100% for half an hour). I am using the stock HS/fan that came in the box together with the CPU.

I’ve read on the internet that this CPU can be run at 2.400 MHz with stock cooling, HOWEVER that was probably in the northern part of Europe - here in South-East Asia it is certainly not advisable. I already had it running at 2,200 MHz but within just a few minutes (like 10 minutes) only idle the temperature reached 50 degrees Celsius, and i don’t want to risk my poor CPU. I have to add that the temperature in the room was 32 degrees Celsius, and it doesn’t get much cooler than that.

Now in the morning today i was looking at some cooling options here at a large computer store, and i found very impressive looking coolers of which i had read on the internet before, Cooler Master and Thermaltake to be precise, various types.

Now the problem is, those always require to take the mainboard out and attach some “frame” to it, using screws. And i do NOT wish to take my machine apart again! Because i don’t know how the performance of those coolers is, they all had “heat pipes” and i never used one such, and going thru the work taking the machine completely apart to attach a cooler that doesn’t cool better than the stock one… i want to prevent that.

So here i ask: Which CPU cooler can be recommended by the users of this forum, for overclocking a socket 754 Sempron which runs at 1,600 stock, to 2.200 or even 2.400 and keep the temperature at no more than 47 degrees Celsius? I get that temperature at 1,800 MHz with the stock cooler, and don’t want it to go any hotter.

Watercooling is NOT an option since the case is unusable for that.

Oh, and if the cooler can be attached just by clips it would be nice - i want to prevent taking the mainboard out.

I apreciate any advise.

Best regards…



As you say, you don’t want to have to take out your motherboard, so perhaps the best option for you, is the Freezer 64 Pro cooler. It’s unbeatable on it’s range of prices, and should be enough to cool a sempron monocore processor.

I’ve mount a lot of those coolers, and are as easy to install as the AMD stock cooler, and should let you OC up to 2500 mhz or even more depending on the good the processor will results to be in overclock capabilities.

If you want the BEST performance, you could go to the scythe Ninja or his big brother, the Scythe Infinity; both them are mounted witch clips, although due to the bit size of them, surely you’ll see you forced to take out the motherboard in order to be able to close the clips.

I hope to be helpfully.


I agree with TassadarAMD, the AC Freezer 64 Pro is very good, affordable, and easily mountable with the AMD motherboards (no need to remove). The base comes with thermal paste preapplied and works well. The 2 or 3 lowest fins are even curved such that it can cool your RAM or regulators on the board. You can also orient the clip to blow air out to the back of the case or to the PSU (assuming top mount with a fan).

a freezer 64 is one of the best bang for your buck coolers, another option would be the stock cooler from a skt. 939 opteron or FX (I think some of the higher X2s used them too), they are excellent coolers with a large copper base and heatpipes, I was using one on my 3700 OCed to 2.6 and it kept load temps around 45c, I picked it up from ebay for ~$10 shipped IIRC

thermalright ultra 120, or Sunbeam tuniq tower… Not cheap though

This is something real simple but have you tried running the computer with the cover off the case? It will make a difference.

both very, very good coolers, I’m running the tuniq myself, but they are kinda overkill for a single core sempron :wink:

Hello :slight_smile:

Thank you all for your suggestions :slight_smile: For me, the price for my cooler is no issue, the ones i looked at today did all cost more than either the Tuniq or the Ultra 120, however those two also have the downside of needing to take the board out to mount them, plus they are too tall! That is because i have a fan in the side of my computer which sits salmost directly above the CPU (well “beside it” when the machine is standing upright as usual), and would i use one of those “tower” type coolers, that fan would have to be removed - and i rather add more fans than remove one :slight_smile:

The “Arctic Freezer Pro” looks very good to me, and i have seen that one as well at the place where i had been in the morning yet i didn’t look at it too closely, since i had only those two names - “Cooler Master” and “Thermaltake” - in my mind when i went there.

I have a question about that “Arctic Freezer Pro”, if you with experience with that one don’t mind: The way of fixing the fan to the HS seems flimsy to me, very flimsy in fact - as if the fan could just fall off any moment. To refresh once more, i live in Thailand, where the ambient (room!) temperature goes below 30 degrees Celsius on maybe 7 days A YEAR. My computer is on pretty much all day, with exception of the night because neither me nor my boyfriend could sleep when that machine kept humming away. The air here is also very humid at all times, and this conditions make “rubber” usually fall apart within a rather short time. My question therefor: Is there a possibility to fix the fan to the heat sink somewhat more permanent, for example with cable straps? I don’t mind a bit more noise as long as it doesn’t sound like a jet engine (as in my old computer which had a 7.500 rpm CPU fan!) and my main concern is “temperature”.

Another question which is unrelated to “Cooler” but still related to “temperature”: I have read about this software “SpeedFan” and i thought it miught be good. Downloaded it. And was shocked!!

Now i have a “thermometer” in my PC (if you click that link in my signature you’ll see a pic of the machine). That thermometer’s sensor is attached with a piece of scotch tape to the side of the metal part on top of the CPU (heat distributor?), under the heat sink in fact but of course NOT between heat sink and CPU :slight_smile: The reading of that thermometer coincides what the BIOS reads out, plus-minus one or two degrees. Say the BIOS reads “45 degrees” the thermometer may be 43 or 47 but never further off. I assumed that what the BIOS reads is the core temperature, no?

Now in SpeedFan there’s a whole bunch of temperatures, including the hard drives btw which is nice (and they’re way too hot at 42 and 47 degrees!), but there is one named “Core” which i guess is the core of the CPU for sure - and that shows, right now, a whopping 55 degrees! And thereby 10 degrees (!!) MORE than my thermometer and the BIOS!! Also when i do something CPU-intensive, this goes uip very quickly, in my test with letting the CPY crunch things at 100% load for half an hour (multiple video conversions simultaneusly is a wonderful way to test a CPU!) this went up to 65 degrees! The outside thermometer showed 47 then, pretty much as high as it ever gets.

Now i think at 65 degrees C the CPU core is short of burning out, yes? I find very misleading information on the net for the Sempron, ranging from 60 to 90 degrees - and i do NOT want to let it burn out! But whaich temperature reading is correct then? BIOS/thermometer or SpeedFan-“Core”…? SpeedFan also had one that showed the same temperature as BIOS and thermometer, but it was conveniently named “Temp 03” or something like that, giving me no clue where to put it (is bthat a sensor that sits on the MoBo under the CPU…? There should be one such… SpeedFan gave me Temp 01-03 of which 02 showed fantasy figures (-128 degrees C for example), Core, HDD 0 and HDD 1.

Ok friends, bothered you enough for now… time for me to sleep, 1:20 am and a long working day behind me. I will check fopr replies tomorrow, if positive, i might get the Arctic Freezer Pro this weekend still :slight_smile:

With kind regards…

your Thanh

BTW before i forget - one suggestion was keeping the case open. Sorry i can’t do that - i have a lots of ants in my place (they are everywhere in Bangkok) and when i leave the case open, it will take days and i have an ant nest in my computer. Don’t laugh, it happened TWICE before, for some reason ants seem to love cozy warm computers.

Best regards…


Thermalright XP-90 copper is hard to beat and will install without removing the board.

These Test were done in may 2005, but it gives you something to look at.

Test: 25 CPU coolers

:cool: :cool:

The fan actually is secured by rubber mounts which are secured to a brace that clips to the heatsink. It’s very sturdy and not flimsy at all since the fan isn’t very heavy.

But it still needs Thermalright’s own bracket to secure the 4 clips on the XP-90, in which the backplate will fall off and may misalign with the holes when the factory bracket is removed. Then the motherboard will need to be taken out.

i had a sempron 2600+ @ 2.7 ghz on a stock amd athlon x2 4800+ heatpiped cooler that was fine plus side is most pc hardware shops will sell u them at like 2 quid or something silly :bigsmile: , if not then get the freezer 64 pro as it already has artic silver compound on aswell :bigsmile:

Hi :slight_smile:

Thanks for that :slight_smile: I think the “Arctic” one will be it… here in Bangkok the CPU you mentioned is not available (i just been there last weekend, building a machine for my boss - the fastest they had was the X2 4.200+ and it’s cooler looks very much like mine, i.e. no heat pipes). And again - where i live it’s a lot hotter than in your area (i just guess you’re in UK - what you get for summer’s peak temps we get on a daily basis here - on 365 days per year!) so higher opverclocks with stock coolers are a definite no-no :slight_smile:

But still congrats to running that Sempron at 2.700 :slight_smile: I think my mainboard (Asus K8N4-E SE) would not let me higher than 2.450 or something like that, but i don’t even want to go that high - if i get 2.200 without melting the poor thing i’m happy. I don’t need the performace for gaming - the only one game i play ocassionally runs just fine at 1.600 (Need For Speed Underground) already. But i do lots and lots of video converting, which are CPU-intensive tasks that tend to take very long times. Now doing THOSE in shorter times is what i want :slight_smile: I was shopping for some faster CPU - but Bangkok goes very fast, what was “top of the line” three months ago is now “obsolete and out of stock”, could not find a SINGLE ONE socket 754 CPU! And no, i’m NOT going to change my mainboard again before it dies, which, judging by the last one, can take 5 years :slight_smile:

I am not sure if i can get to Panthip today or tomorrow to get that cooler, if not it’ll have to be coming friday - however as soon as i got it i’ll let you all know about my temperatures :slight_smile:

Kind regards…


FYI, the AC Freezer 64 Pro IS compatible with socket 939 and AM2 (probably with AM2+ and AM3 also, when they come out). You can still use your DDR with a socket 939 setup if the parts are still available.

I cheat. I put an extra air conditioner in the window next to my computer desk. Heat is a non entity for me.

Hello again :slight_smile:

I am utterly disappointed!! So i went and got the Arctic Freezer 64 Pro, after reading some more reviews on the net - everyone praises it as “the best cooler in the market balh blah”. And everywhere it’s on sale for like 35 us$.

Not in Bangkok, here it costs 1.500 Baht - close to 50 us$.

Ok i got one, see attached picture. But it’s really a disappointment, a triple disappointment in fact.

Now when i boot the machine, the alarm in my “smart panel” goes off - the fan seems to take ages to get spinning, and that thing keeps beeping of like 25 seconds due to “too low fan rpm”. Finally the fan reaches 2.200.

Now according to SpeedFan, i’m running some 4 degrees C cooler than with the stock one - core temp, that is. Actually a bit more - currently (at “almost idle”) it’s 49 degrees, and after running some video conversions it was 58 - lower than 65, but to be honest - i expected A LOT more!

Next, for some reason now i can’t overclock anymore! If that’s got to do with the fan speed reading…? I’m running at 1.800 MHz now, 1.900 still works but if i go to 2.000 Vista won’t boot. Heck i’ve booted it with 2.200 before and had it running for a quarter hour then shut down normally. And now it won’t even boot!

Now one thing which nobody warned me of: The Arctic Freezer 64 Pro has a power cable with a FOUR pin plug, while my MoBo has a 3-pin connector. Luckily i have the speed sensor for the “Smart Panel” inbetween, so i took a wire cutter and cut off the edge of it’s “fan connector”, otherwise i could not connect that thing at all. Now the blue wire, coming from the Arctic’s fan, is not connected to anything. Is this a required wire? The fan runs the right way 'round and the thing cools… but what is that fourth wire for? Red, black and yellow are connected.

I would apreciate any input from people which use this cooler - as you can see, my case IS cramped but there’s nothing i can do about it… i followed the advise to have the Arctic blow the air towards the back of the machine, and it gets fresh air from the front (i’ve got a HDD cooler with three fans in front of the HDD, btw i just noticed the HDD being two degrees cooler than usual - well, a side effect :slight_smile: Is it true that the Arctic takes a couple of days to reach it’s full performance? Read that in some reviews… due to the thermal compound or something.

More important, why in the world can’t i overclock now when i COULD with the stock cooler? THAT sucks big time and entirely defeats the purpose of having this Arctic cooler in first place.

With kind regards…


Did you see anything that looked better to you when you were buying this HSF? I take it you went to a retail store? Do they carry Thermaltake brand or other brands?

This is from the FAQ at Arctic cooling

The BIOS of some mainboard manufacturers compares the speed of the fan with a specified value. If the fan speed does not match the specified value, either the PC emits a warning or switches off. Contrary to the temperature control, the RPM control is of no importance, since fan speeds will be between 500 and 7000 RPM depending o­n the type of fan. This RPM control can de deactivated in the BIOS settings. Please consult your mainboard manufacturer for more information regarding these settings.

In the case of the PC is not booting or immediately switching off, attach the plug of the cooler to the auxiliary power of the mainboard and attach a second fan with higher RPM to the primary power socket. Now the PC can boot allowing the RPM control to be deactivated in the BIOS settings. We recommend using a temperature control instead of a RPM control. The cooler does not need to be removed from the processor for this procedure.

Does PWM’s 4-pin fan plug be able to use in 3-pin fan socket o­n mother board?
4-pin fan plug is downward compatible to 3-pin fan socket o­n mother board. The stopper o­n the plug actually guides you to insert. Please see the following pictures.

:cool: :cool:

Hello :slight_smile:

Thanks for replying.

@ rolling56:
Yes, i did see a number of “cool” coolers there but “looks” is of no importance to me - i don’t use one of those transparent computer cases :slight_smile: What i need is “performance” and “ease of use” - for example some of the larger coolers would require me to take out the MoBo which in turn would mean a complete disassembly ofmy computer - i would not be able to get the MoBo out without removing the drives etc (Enermax’s THICK power cables are very disturbing at times!) and that’s just too much work for a cooler. The Arctic one installed in a minute - i like that :slight_smile:

About the temperatures, a certain “burn-in” seems to be required indeed - after the system had been running for some hours the temperatures settled down, it seems like “50” is a fixed number for idle, and even after two hours of CPU 100% it doesn’t go higher than 55 anymore, which isn’t too bad after all. That’s according to SpeedFan, the BIOS gives lower numbers :slight_smile:

Without reading your reply (can hardly go online while there’s no cooler on my CPU) i did exactly what you showed me in regards to the power plug, just that in my case the MoBo connector is going to the SmartPanel (for fan speed reading/display) and it’s outgoing cable has a three-pin-socket - yet not “open” like the MoBo, so i had to cut one edge off to make the four-pin fan plug go in there. It’s like on the pic - that ble wire isn’t connected but it seems to work fine.

About the O/C issue, upon reading your reply i went into the BIOS and disabled the “Fan Speed Warning” which was set to 800 rpm - the lowest available number. However the issue is still there - if i set the CPU to 2.000 or 2.200 it won’t boot. The machine starts alright (doesn’t turn itself off or something) but Vista would not boot - i get a black screen right after POST and a brief hard disk activity indication and then it just stops there. BEFORE i changed coolers it would boot fine at 2.000 and even 2.200 (BIOS set to “250” respectively “275”) but it just went too hot… and i don’t think it’s a “power” issue since the Arctic’s fan would not draw that much more than AMD’s stock fan? I use an Enermax 460 watts PSU and no “ultra power” graphics or anything else that would draw insane amounts of power… In the evening today i’ll try the other suggestion of plugging the Arctic into one of the “AUX” fan connectors on the MoBo and have the “CPU” one connected to the AMD stock fan, let’s see what happens then. If that works out, i’ll use that fan to cool something else - i’ll sure find a place for it :slight_smile:

With kind regards…

your Thanh