Question on "Optimum" Brand CD-R

This brand is in today’s Staples ad in the U.S. for about $10.94 for 50 CD-R after instant rebate and then an additional $10.00 mail-in rebate for a net of 94 cents, all of which means nothing if Optimum is not made by a quality manufacturer. So what’s the opinion on Optimum? Thanks.

don’t know who makes optimum brand but my liteon 32123s loves them

don’t know who makes optimum brand but my liteon 32123s loves them

Why not check the ATIP and post here who is making them? See the media FAQ.

With these, and all budget media, the maker can vary from one batch to the next. And with many makers, the quality can vary greatly from one batch to the next. The best approach to unknown cheap media is don’t expect great things from it. Use it for every day stuff that is appropriate for cheap media. Test it regularly and burn it at an appropriate speed for your drive.

Those are CMC media. They are good up to 52x in my liteon 48246S flashed to 52x. Zero errors according to nero cdspeed, and that is when burned at 52x also. They seem to be decent. Thanks for the reminder too, I forgot that my rebate must be postmarked by Jan 23 for it to be any good!

Like it was said, sometimes the manufacturer varies on cheap CDs like these, but the ones that I got were CMC and were of decent quality.

Those discs are very good ,bought 100 for 2 bucks a couple of weeks ago ,48x burn no errors.
They are CMC or at least CMC made the masters…!?
See below:

Came across this and did not see it in any of my searches.
But I thought it might explain some of the differences people experience with media IDed as the same Mfg.(i.e. CMC)

>>So… how do you tell who really made a piece of media? The short answer is: you don’t.
It’s tempting to believe that CD-R media identifier applications (e.g. section (6-2-9) ) will give you the answer you need. Unfortunately, the data you get is unreliable at best. Charles Palmer, from, had this to say about the manufacturer identification:
“Two components that many users of these programs always take as gospel are Media Manufacturer and Dye Data. These two readings are next to worthless.
The reason for this is that many CD-R manufacturers (like CD- purchase their stampers (the nickel die that all CD-R substrates are molded from) from 3rd party sources. These 3rd party sources (either other disc manufacturers, or mastering houses) encode the data that these ‘Identification’ programs read, at the time that the original glass master is encoded. The ‘Manufacturer’ information that is encoded is usually the name of the company that made the master. Since stampers made from that master will be sold to disc manufacturers the world over, all of discs that those manufacturers produce from those stampers will contain the same ‘Manufacturer’ information. Information which is obviously quite erroneous and irrelevant. Very seldom will the ‘manufacturer’ information encoded on a CD-R actually tell you anything other than who made the original master. […]
The second piece of data (the dye type) is also dubious. Because most master/stamper configurations are designed to be matched to specific dye types (Phthalocyanine, Cyanine, Azo, Etc), the ‘Dye’ information that is encoded when the master is produced indicates the type of dye that the master was designed for. This of course, does not assure that the manufacturer that buys and uses this stamper will be using it with the dye that it has been designed for. It is quite possible that a stamper/dye combination is used by a CD-R manufacturer that contradicts the ‘dye’ information encoded on the master. Therefore that information becomes as potentially misleading as the ‘Manufacturer’ data discussed earlier.”
The only reliable piece of information in the “ATIP” region is the disc length. See section (2-38) for further remarks. <<<

that’s from Andy McFadden’s page.

I have a freind who bought these Optimum CD-R’s and they burn fine on my Lite-On 48x12x48x, but the top coating is very thin compared to Tayio Uden CD-R’s

He accidently bent one just very slightly while driving (dont ask me how, I think he missed the slot!) and the coating cracked and started flaking right off. :rolleyes: Luckly it was just a backup copy and the orignal CD was safe at home.

So be very careful if you use labels on these CD’s, and be sure to use a CD Marker - I would be afraid to use a normal marker.

These are OK CD-Rs for and basic “frisbee” use and you cant beat the price. But I wouldnt trust these CD-R’s for things you want to keep for a long time, get some TY made media for that.

I mark them with a Sharpie marker, and it seems to work, no trouble yet, anyway.:slight_smile:

they wont work on my buslink cdrw drive , cant you burn cd-r’s in a cdrw drive . they came with the drive when i bought them .