Q9550 gets very hot

vbimport

#1

I have a Intel Q9550 that gets very hot
When idle at the desktop it is reaching 57c but when I start to push things a bit harder it can reach 81c
Does anyone have an idea what can be wrong?


#2

According to Intel ARK that is a 95 Watt part. That takes a good bit of cooling. I’d check that the heatsink is clear of dust or obstructions and seated well and also that the fan is indeed working. 81c under load isn’t unheard of but 57c at idle seems a bit high.


#3

I have a home built system that I inherited from my brother in law that has a Q9550 chip in it in a Antec P180 case. I replaced the heat sink he had with a Cooler Master Hyper 212+ and used Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound. Now I"m getting between 46-53oC at 100% load per core right now. And I still haven’t twigged out the heatsink fan speed either.


#4

Thank you for the help olyteddy and yojimbo
I removed a little bit of dust from the heatsink and the fan is for sure spinning fast but it is still running hot
How can I check if the heatsink is fitted properly?


#5

[QUOTE=Celina;2653983]Thank you for the help olyteddy and yojimbo
I removed a little bit of dust from the heatsink and the fan is for sure spinning fast but it is still running hot
How can I check if the heatsink is fitted properly?[/QUOTE]

I think you already answered your question. When I had a heatsink with one mounting bracket broken, I tried to use it as is on the Q9550 system. The CPU temps went up to 90oC very quickly and the system did an auto shutdown before I could finish turning it off manually. When I didn’t have the thermal paste on right on my Dell i5, the idle temps were 34-38oC. But as soon as I pushed the system to 100% load, temps climbed up to the 80;s and 90oC.

That being said, you can try removing the heatsink and removing and then reapplying the thermal paste. Another suggestion would be to replace your stock cooler with something more effective. And yet another suggestion would be to clean and crank up your case fan(s).


#6

Celina,

Here’s how you can check your heatsink:

Make sure you turn off the machine. flip the switch on the power supply (from 1 to 0) and pull out the plug. Then touch a metal part of the case (discharges static electricity on your body). Then you can start testing if your heatsink is loose.

There are four push pins on the stock cooler. If any of the pins are loose, you should be able to wobble the cooler by grabbing on the sides and trying to tilt it (just slight force). If it wobbles, then one or more pins are not secure. Push down on the loose ones until you hear a click. That means they are in place.

Once it’s been reseated, you can put the lid/side panel back on, plug the cord back in, flip the switch to 1, and power up your machine.


#7

Thank you for tips one of the plastic pins was broken but I was able to salvage a pin from an old heatsink and now it is running much cooler
38c at idle and 67c when the PC is busy

I think I will buy an after market cooler. Is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO as good as the 212+?


#8

Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO suggested above is one choice…

as are several others on Newegg

The cooler I’d recommend at the moment for a Q9x50 CPU
(IF you have room for it) is this one by Silverstone:

This cooler takes a pair of 60mm 4-pin fans ($8 each) and a 4-pin power Y

BTW, the proper orientation of this radiator is UP relative to the CPU

IF the radiator is up near a 120mm fan you might not actually need a dedicated CPU fan
because a 120mm fan sucking air into a bottom fan CPU will likely draw enough air
through it for “passive” cooling.


#9

I have limited choice where I shop and the Silverstone is not available
The only heatsinks in my price range are Arctic cooling and Cooler Master
Maybe I buy at the weekend


#10

Either brand should be good. However keep in mind that Cooler Master’s instructions might be a bit confusing (to say the least) as they are just pictogram instructions (with very few words). I’d look for YouTube videos to help you when you get stuck trying to get the backplate and heatsink mounted to the board.

Arctic Cooling’s instructions should be better, but even then sometimes you’ll need to look up a how-to video as some of their parts are “unisex” in their orientation.