I have lost another of my favorite movie dvd
s due to scratches and what not so have decided it is time to make backups.I am a perfectionist and want them as close to the originals as posible.I was told that all printable duplicate dvd media has a color on the recordable side (purple mostly) because the dye is necessary for laser copying. Is this true ?...I hate colored recordable sided dvds. will I have to settle for this if I want to make my copies? thanks any input would be appreciated
I have lost another of my favorite movie dvd
The dyes used in recordable disks will have a purple or bluish-purple hue. You’re not going to get around that.
If you want “as close to the originals as possible” you’ll probably need to use dual layer media for most of your backups. Make an ISO copy on your hard drive using DVDFab HD Decrypter, then burn with Imgburn. The copies you make will be identical, but will also keep the previews, FBI warnings, and other crap that the movie studios add to dvds these days. There are ways of deleting those “extras” if you want, but it takes a little more time and effort.
Using dual layer media, the only recommended disks are made by Mitsubishi Chemicals in Singapore and usually sold under the Verbatim brand. Occasionally you will find these Singapore made disks under the Sony brand too, but you can’t count on finding them. Country of manufacture is important, since the dual layer disks made in India and sold under the Verbatim brand are getting inconsistent results. I would stick with the +R DL disks by the way.
And even the best dual layer disks may not have the longevity of single layer disks. That is a question yet to be definitively answered.
Kerry I think you might have it backwards, double layer means it writes on one side on 2 layers, Dual layer means that it will write on both sides of the media, better known as flippers
so are these double layered disks hub printable and are they near silver on the recordable side like the replicated ones do you think?
Could you tell me what purpose the double layer fills. thanks
No, Jimbo. I’ve always referred to 8.5gb disks, blank dvd9’s, as dual layer. You will see some confusion about that, for example, at Rima.com they list the blank dvd9’s as double layer in the drop down list in the +R section, but when they actually show the disks available they are named dual layer. Like this
I’ve never seen or used the term dual layer for flippers. Perhaps I should just write DL from now on. Look here also: Wikipedia article
[QUOTE=randomlight;1922613]are they near silver on the recordable side like the replicated ones do you think?
No, They will have a slight color to them.
You can’t compare pressed disks to after market disks in which you burn to, For one the processes are completely different.
There are many factors involved in which dyes are chosen for after market and why they are used. You are just going to have to live with the fact that there will be color.
Some examples of dyes.
Dye color: blue / Patented by: Taiyo Yuden
Cyanine is one of the oldest dye formulations found in recordable discs. It is chemically unstable, and somewhat sensitive to light. Cyanine discs are not usually recommended for archival purposes since they can cheimally breakdown after a few years. Many companies use proprietary additives to make the formulation more stable, and therefore improve their archival life up to 50 years. Cyanine discs will usually appear blue in color, but can appear green when coupled with a gold reflective layer. Cyanine is more tolerant of variation during the writing process, and since it is a sensitive material, is recommended for high speed recording.
The majority of blank media is produced with Cyanine. It can be the least expensive kind of disc to manufacture, and can provide excellent results for the money. The adaptation of this dye formulation by other blank media companies, such as Fuji and TDK, can yeild similar performance to other dye formulations. Although Cyanine is typically the cheapest of formulations to use, additives and other factors can make these discs just as expensive as others on the retail shelves.
* Mix CD's * Short-term Data Storage * Sharing photos with friends and family * High speed recording (Recording at greater than 32X speeds)
Dye color: clear / Patented by: Mitsui Toatsu Chemical
Since the dye is clear, these discs are usually a silver, gold, or a very light green in color, depending on the color of the reflective metal layer. Phthalocyanine formulations are extremely stable, and can have a archival life of hundreds of years, as well as top-notch performance. Phthalocyanine is a more difficult substance to write to, and is less tolerant in power of the laser during the writing process. Therefore, it is not recommended to use Phthalocyanine for high speed recording.
Phthalocyanine seems to be the second most common dye formulation used in blank media. Since the dye itself is clear, discs of these types tend to have the highest reflectivity of any blank medium. Where older drives have difficulty reading other types of blank media, these types of discs will most likely be compatible. However, the cost of quality phthalocyanine discs tend to make other dye formulations more attractive.
* Long term data storage, such as photos and documents * Duplicating CDs * Duplicating DVDs * Working with older playback devices * Holds up better in extreme conditions, like exposure to UV light
Dye Color: blue / Patented by: Verbatim & Mitsubishi Chemical
Azo is a very stable dye formulation which can last for decades. Though typically more expensive than cyanine formulations, azo discs can yeild very high performance with good durability for the money. Azo discs are usually dark blue in color.
Azo looks similar to Cyanine blank discs (given the blue color), but offers substantial performance gains. When coupled with a silver reflection layer, Azo is more reflective than Cyanine. It should be noted that although Azo is more stable over the years, additives in Cyanine can provide similar longevity to Azo. Azo is usually more expensive than a regular Cyanine disc, but advanced Cyanine formulations could be more expensive.
* Good cost for performance ratio * Long term data storage (Under 50 years) * Duplicating CDs * Duplicating DVDs
Dye color: light green / Patented by: Kodak Japan Limited
Formazan is a hybrid of Cyanine and Phthalocyanine, originally developed by Kodak. The dye itself is light green, but the disc looks like a dark green when coupled with a gold metallic layer. Formazan is a rarely used formulation in the blank media industry. If available, Formazan can be an exceptional quality disc for reflectivity, write speed, and longevity. However, the cost of Formazan typically leads buyers to Phthalocyanine for their recording purposes.
Recommended uses: See Phthalocyanine
Hey Platinumsword, have you ever seen a blank dvd using formazan? Beyond my experience.
Where did you dig up this list by the way?
Wow thanks guys that was great ,I`m an expert now.
love this site
KERRY: Oh well no big deal I guess, I am looking at some Verbs and on the disk itself it says DVD+R DL Verbatim
Double Layer 8.5 GB, somewhere I saw a post on the two types, I’ll see if I can find it anyway like I said no big deal, have a nice weekend pal
Edit, Just looked at that link in your post and it was different than the one I saw explaining the formats , anyway that info must be old as they stated this(
A double layer rewritable version called DVD+RW DL has been released but is expected to be incompatible with existing DVD devices.)Which isn’t true at all now
Just to clear up the terminology…
“Dual layer” and “double layer” are originally a manufacturer’s choice of term, but are often used synonymously and refer to two recordable layers on the same side of the disc (also called DVD-9). DVD ‘+’ format die-hards will remind us that “double-layer” was chosen first for +R DL, leaving “dual layer” to be adopted by the ‘-’ format in their DVD -R DL; but this distinction hasn’t really caught on with consumers.
Discs with a single layer recordable surface on both sides are called ‘double-[B][I]sided[/I][/B]’ (or DVD-10), and a double-sided, double (or dual) layer disc would be DVD-18.
See chef’s post at the end of this thread for a nice summary…
Thanks for clearing that up as I have heard many different sides of this
As you can see err read randomlight , there are some mighty smart people at CDF , learned something new myself love this site … keep up the good work for us " newbies "
There is also double layer on one side and single layer on the other side. DVD-14.
So now I`m printing my movies on this flat white printable dvd surface and I dropped some water on one and the ink starts running like crazy.How long does it take before the ink is dry and water resitant ?
Cyanine and azo-cyanine dyes react more slowly to laser heat. They require a long write strategy and, therefore, are not at their best at fast recording speeds. (Azo-cyanine is a cyanine dye with metal stabilizers in the formulation.)
Phthalocyanine is a fast reacting dye that uses a short write strategy. It is better at high recording speeds than the cyanine/azo-cyanine family of dyes but is poor at slow recording speeds and not recommended at all for 1X recording in the old stereo CD-R recorders.
Mitsubishi introduced the DL disc, and the DVD+RW Alliance decided to call it “double-layer” to avoid confusion with “dual format” drives. When the DVD Forum introduced its DL disc, it decided to call it “dual-layer” to avoid confusion with the the “double-layer” DVD+R disc. (The DVD Forum gave us Type 1 two-sided and Type 2 one-sided discs DVD-RAM discs–there are 9 different RAM types, believe it or not. All to avoid confusion!!)
The only DL rewritable disc is the JVC DVD-RW DL. This disc cannot be recorded or played in any drive unless it is compatible with DL rewritable standards because the file identification for video is different and the reflectivity is extremely low. The DVD Forum accepted this new disc as a standard recently, probably to avoid confusion.
Ink-jet printable discs should take no longer than a minute to become acceptably dry. However, they will remain susceptible to water dispersion unless the design is either water-proof (Imation AquaGuard) or water-resistant (Taiyo Yuden WaterShield.) There are a few other water-resistant formulations available, but those are the two most well known.