Problems with new Lite-On (and Asus) DVD burners

vbimport

#1

I sold my old PC and stupidly included my Samsung SH203 with it. I got pretty good if not great burns with it, but figured that for $20 (and the buyer wanted a burner) I could “upgrade.”

After reading a bunch of threads, I first bought an ASUS DRW-24B1ST (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204) for my new PC build (Win 7 64). The Asus was manufactured in Oct 2010 and has firmware v1.04 which as noted in other threads, cannot be flashed back to firmware 1.03 (I even called Asus tech “support” on that).
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The first burn using Verbatim DVD+Rs was mediocre, but the next two were very good. However, I could NOT burn any Maxell DVD+RDL using Imgburn or CDBurnerXP. I mean that literally – it either hangs up setting the layer break or trying to start writing the lead-in. I did a web search (incl. Imgburn forum), and couldn’t find anything other than it is most likely a media issue.

Since it could be a media issue (my luck), I ordered a 30 pack of Verbatim 8X DVD+R DL, but delivery is delayed a few days due to weather so I still don’t have them. NewEgg had a sale so I bought a Lite-On iHAS-324-98B retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106334) in the hope that the issue was firmware related. Nope. Same result for the Maxell DLs – no good. I just got it so I haven’t had a chance to burn a couple Verbatim DVD+Rs, but will do so shortly. I’m sure they will be fine.

I know Verbatim & Taiyo are the best blank media, but I’ve never had such problems with media & software like I’ve had with these drives. In over hundreds of CD & DVD burns I’ve done over the past few years, I’ve never had a failure to start burning and very few “coasters” overall. More importantly, I burn a few “test” CDs & DVDs when editing/encoding/recording video & audio. Thus being able to burn less expensive media for trial & error is important.

My questions are as follows:

(1) Should I return one of the drives and get something else (Sony, LG, Samsung, whatever), or is having a Media Tek chipset the best (or one of the best) option(s) for burn quality as well as scanning among the currently available DVD-RWs?

(2) If I should get something else, then what should I get and which one should I return? The Asus was OEM & the Lite-On retail if that matters. Should I do a DVD test burn or two with the Lite-On or is it likely they will have the same results quality wise?

Sorry for the long post, but I really could use some help. I’m not in a position to keep wasting money buying DVD burner after DVD burner or wasting blank media. I like to get a Blu-Ray burner at some point. Furthermore, I certainly can’t keep wasting time solving what seems to be endless hardware issues. It’s been nothing but problems for four months now with this new build! :sad:

Thank you very much for your help.


#2

Most likely the problems are due to use of cheap media, and that may be confirmed if use of more good media such as Verbatim works well. The only way to know if the LiteOn will have the same problems is to test to see. Sony, LG, etc. may or may not have same problems with cheap media, and it’ll be a waste of time trying them if cheap media is the culprit. If I were in your situation, I’d try the cheap media in the LiteOn and return the Asus if the LiteOn works satisfactorily, i.e. if you want to use cheap media. Otherwise I’d simply stick with better quality media.


#3

[U]Thank you[/U] for replying :bigsmile: I know it was an unusual post, but this has [U]truly[/U] been the build from hell. I’ve never had any problems before with optical drives (media or software) and thought I might have two defective or subpar drives on top of everything else.

The Verbatim DVD+R DLs were [I]finally[/I] delivered. The LiteOn had no problems burning one. The burn was actually good - very good if not for big PI spike early on. I remember someone else having the same result w/ the Asus so maybe that’s a characteristic of the “B” series Media Tek.

I also bought a 100 pack of Verbatim DVD+R yesterday for only $22+tax! That’s what I used to pay for the cheap stuff. I guess prices have dropped a lot. At that price it’s cheap enough to blow 5-10 disks fine tuning a project (it never looks the same on the TV as it does on the PC).

I probably have to RMA a hard drive so I’m considering RMAing the Asus along with it. Ignoring the media issue, do the LG/Samsung/Sony drives generally give better burns for DVD/DVD DL, or are the Asus/LiteOn just as good/better? Another problem I have is that neither drive will burn a CD with Exact Audio copy using Verbatim as well as Maxell CD-Rs. I can rip just fine, but not burn. An alternative is to get a Lite-On 524 since it has the “old” Media Tek chip, but I’m not sure what impact flashing to CodeKing’s firmware would have on burn quality. I don’t care about LigthScribe, etc. I just want the drives to work reliably and burn well.

Any thoughts/advice? Again, thank you for your reply.


#4

did you burn the verbatims with the asus? what were the results?


#5

[QUOTE=GDRIVER;2567957]did you burn the verbatims with the asus? what were the results?[/QUOTE]
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I burned a couple Verbatim DLDVDs with the Asus as well as the Lite-On. I have a lot more to burn, but I want to edit the ISOs before burning. Plus I’m still dealing w/ HDD issues. I had one very good burn with the Asus and one pretty good. Again, both drives have this PI error spike early on (around the 300MB) mark. On the latest couple of Verbatim DVD+R DL burns, the spike was 40-50 (Lite On low 40s/Asus high 40s or 50). That’s the same trait as the other DL burns. Actually, that might be the case with most if not all of the burns so far. Overall, the two seem to burn with almost the same quality. The LiteOn might be a little more consistent while the Asus had the best (and worst - but not by too much) DL burn so far.

Two questions:

(1) When testing, should you burn the same ISO? In other words, can the ISO itself have an impact on burn quality? I’m not talking about comparing a standard DVD to a DL, but if you have two DL ISO of roughly the same size. Actually, does it matter if one ISO is 5.5GB and the other 7.5GB when testing? My guess is that it’s better to use the exact same ISO for test purposes, but that’s just a guess. Any advice?

(2) Related question. Using only Verbatim DL, I had both the LiteOn and Asus freeze up during closing/finalizing (forget what it’s called) a DL disk. Everything went fine until it got the 99% mark for closing the disk. If I waited 10 minutes or more, it would FINALLY close and verify. However, when I tested w/ DVDSpeed (CodeKing mode for jitter), DVDSpeed showed that the test finished at the 99% mark. Other than that program ran fine and I could play both disks on my PC. will test on Blu-Ray player later.
I thought it might be the ISO so I extracted files and built another ISO using IMGBurn. Same result - freeze up for 10-15 minutes at the 99% closing mark then finally close and verify. I can’t help but think it’s the ISO, but I have no idea why. One weird thing was that when I opened one of those burns to check the files, it showed that “desktop.ini” was waiting to be burned. I checked both ISOs (I changed folder view options to see operating files first), and didn’t find desktop.ini in either ISO or extracted folders. I have no idea what’s going on, but my guess is that it is not a hardware issue. Any thoughts?

I have to RMA a HDD to NewEgg (LOL - I just bought it last week in case I had to RMA one or both of the others and THAT one turned out to be defective. So now two HDDs to RMA). As a result, I’m going to RMA either the LiteOn or the Asus. I’m not sure which one at this point. Any thoughts? It’s so close that I might as well flip a coin.

Whichever I return will be replaced with a LiteOn 524-98A since that should have the “A” MediaTek (it better…). I’m hoping that at least it will work fine with EAC and not hang up when burning DL Verbatims. At this point I’ve wasted so much time on this (and a LOT more on the HDD crap) that I don’t even care about whether I can burn Maxell, etc. or not.

Again, thanks for the replies and all advice is appreciated.


#6

FYI - decided to RMA the Lite-On 324 in exchange for a Lite-On iHAS524-98A (Newegg was cool and waived the shipping). Hopefully zero problems with that. I still don’t understand why that one ISO would freeze up when it reached the 99% closing/finalizing disk point, but maybe there’s a thread on that or the IMGburn forums. Both DL burns for that worked in my Oppo DVD player.

Thanks again for the help.