Problems with LDW-811s and Datawrite Grey media



Burner “LDW-811s”. Firmware “HS0K”. Media (markings on package):

“Grey Top”
“Datawrite Classic”
“4.7GB General Purpose 8x DVD-R”
“8x 4,7GB DVD-R”

Running Nero Express. ‘Simulation’ fails at 2.4 speed. Manual select speed 2.0 ‘simulation’ succeds.

  • Experiences with this media and LDW-811s ?

  • Does a ‘simulation’ show anything about the quality of the media ?
    I mean since it doesn’t actually write …

  • Could a firmware upgrade help ? (latest is “HS0R”, “HS0K” is 1.5 year old ca).

Noticed this thread “What DVD media should I use with my LiteOn DVD burner?”
“Just stay away from the shady junk media types/brands like Princo, “Great Quality”, Matrix, Sonic, Datawrite Yellow/Reds and you will be fine.”
It doesn’t explicitly state “Datawrite Grey” …

I know I need to RTFM, ie research this forum. I wish selecting media wasn’t an art and a science, I wish it would just ‘work’ <sigh>.

So I’m asking for a simple answer first, if there is one, like upgrading firmware.

I did google ‘Datawrite Grey’ and got only positive comments. Should have googled the combination of LDW-811s and Datawrite Grey.


read this thread


Datawrite Grey is, IIRC, a -R media type with the code “FUJIFILM03”

This media code does not exist in the 811S firmware’s tables, which means that the drive doesn’t really know what to do with this media type. It will use a generic write strategy and speed, which usually does not produce pretty results.

1/ Download OmniPatcher (see sticky), version 2 (or newer)

2/ If you want to continue to use HS0K, then use LtnFW (see tools collection sticky) to back up your firmware and load the .BIN into OmniPatcher. Otherwise, download the HS0R firmware from and load the HS0R firmware into OmniPatcher (you can load the .exe file directly)

3/ Look through the list of -R media codes, and find one that you’ll probably never ever use and select it. For example, “Auvistar”. Rename this media code (use the text boxes on the right) to “FUJIFILM03” for the manuf. ID and “52” for the rev. ID (be precise with the spelling and capitalization!).

4/ Important step! After renaming the media code, double click on it in the media list. This will bring up the window to reassign write strategies. Based on results posted in the write strategy reassignment thread stickied in this forum, TYG02 seems to be a good strategy to use.

5/ Save the firmware and flash the patched firmware that you have just created.

6/ See if it works now. If it turns out that the TYG02 strategy doesn’t work too well, you may want to try other stratgies (trial-and-error).

Edit: Looks like someone beat me to it… :wink: read the thread linked to above for more background information… the instructions that I provided in this post will differ from previous instructions posted in this forum because older instructions were from before OmniPatcher 2


Thank you for the quick and very thorough answer.

“FUJIFILM03”. Yes, I found this info while googling.

Why the h… not ? Never mind, just rhetorical. :slight_smile:

Was kind of hoping (expecting) that particular kind of problem would be solved by firmware upgrades. Meaning if this media didn’t exist when HS0K was written, Lite-On should have included it in later firmware upgrades.

Not particularly. But all the warnings about making backups and Lite-On’s own comment “only upgrade if you have a problem” makes ‘flashing’ seem hazardous. But I already flashed it once, 1.5 year ago so I don’t fear (much) doing again.

Now I need to figure out what -R media codes I’ve used. Guess there is a tool that can read and report media codes. I’ll find it.

I likely will try this route.


LiteOn is spending its firmware development energy energy on new drives, which means that firmware support for older drives are all but dropped. This, unfortunately, appears to be a very common practice amongst all the DVD-writer manufacturers.

I’m pretty certain that the code that I suggested, “Auvistar”, is something that nobody on this forum has ever seen (much less ever used). :wink:

Good luck, and please post your results.

PS: For future reference when anyone else reads this thread, since this is the third (or fourth?) time this week that someone’s asked about adding a new media code, I’ve updated the FAQ with step-by-step instructions for doing this.


thats a good idea as ive seen loads of people asking about this, and i dont spend that much time in the liteon forum, well until later today when i pickup my new 1673 :smiley:


I guess the tool to identify media with is “” provided by Lite-On. Running “SmartBurn3110.exe” my “Datawrite Grey” Media identifies as:

Drive Type = DVD DUAL
Disc Type = DVD-R (Single Layer)
Disc MID = 50 72 6F 64 69 73 (Prodis)
Disc TID = 63 46 30 31 00 00 (cF01…)
Nominal Capacity = 4.38GB
Manufacturer Maybe = Prodisc Technology Inc.
SMART-BURN Speed Limit = 2.0X (Write)

where the pertinent part is “Manufacturer Maybe = Prodisc Technology Inc.” I believe or possibly “Prodis” or “cF01”.

  • Shouldn’t it come back as “FUJIFILM03” ?

  • Since it doesn’t identify as “FUJIFILM03” will not replacing write strategy for “FUJIFILM03” be ineffective ?

I searched the “Changing DVD±R write strategies (results thread)” for

  • “Prodisc Technology Inc.”
  • “cF01”
  • “Prodis”

found none of these three search terms.


Whoops. Well, Datawrite Grey used to be FUJIFILM03. :stuck_out_tongue: But your problem is still the same as before because “ProdiscF01” (for -R codes, combine the two parts to form the full media code) is not supported by HS0R.

So the steps are still the same, except you use “ProdiscF01” instead of “FUJIFILM03”. As for what strategies to use for ProdiscF01, in addition to searching the strat result thread, you might also want to consider using the ProdiscS03 strat (as strats of different media by the same manufacturer are usually similar).


Found “ProdiscF01” in “write strategies”:
post #193

No good strategy proposed there though (for the 811 or the burner the poster is using).

Maybe I’ll try this, maybe not.

I’m with curls:

except the ‘old fart’ may or may not be applicable :slight_smile:

This whole situation reminds me of old stories I heard about line editors (text editing via command line). Not the old DOS EDLIN, much older than that, line editors for the old main frames.

Story goes that these editors were only for genuine hackers. So flexible and powerful that the slightest mistake (misplaced character) could have disastrous results. A popular pastime was (so I heard) to write your name on the command line and take bets how badly the whole computer would crash (and how much damage would be done) :eek:

  • I assume I can use both “flashfix” and “Omnipatcher” on the same ‘official’ Lite-On “HS0R.EXE” file ?

  • If I decide to do nothing and use the “generic speed, write strategy” at 2x is there a high risk for ‘coasters’ ?

  • Again using “generic speed, write strategy” at 2x will this make the readback equally slowish ?

  • I assume I can use both “flashfix” and “Omnipatcher” on the same ‘official’ Lite-On “HS0R.EXE” file ?

You can use FlashFix. But the official flasher stores the firmware in a scrambled state so OmniPatcher can’t work with it. You should download a flasher with the firmware stored in an unscrambled state in order to use OmniPatcher. Those flashers are available at

  • If I decide to do nothing and use the “generic speed, write strategy” at 2x is there a high risk for ‘coasters’ ?

Usually, yes.

  • Again using “generic speed, write strategy” at 2x will this make the readback equally slowish ?

The readback speed will depend on how well the disc is burned. If the disc is burned poorly, then the readback will be slower (or even fail–i.e., if reading a coaster). Otherwise, readback should be unaffected. Using the generic write strategy is not recommended and will generally produce worse burns.

I also appreciate your sense of caution. :wink: There are a lot of newbies who dive in and do just about everything without even bothering to read the readme. And as a result, the warnings that we issue tend to be harsher than needed, and we try our best to make our tools as fool-proof as possible. :wink: (OmniPatcher’s been around for over a year now and its use hasn’t killed a drive yet)

Try using the ProdiscS03 strategy… it’s usually not hard to beat the generic strategy. Also keep in mind that the ProdiscF01 result posted in the results thread was written at 8x (and you’ll be doing 4x because that’s the max for the 811S) with a different drive model. Plus, the results that he got were actually fairly good (I don’t know why he said that they weren’t).


Short version: Tried (optimistically) to burn ‘generic’ strategy (after first flashing to latest firmware ‘HS0R.EXE’). Scan sucked something fierce… so I figured might as well try the ‘ProdiscS03’ strategy. Big improvement.

Long version:

Note ‘Datawrite Classic’ = ‘Datawrite Grey’ (maybe… both names are on the label, henceforth I refer to it as ‘Datawrite Classic’).

First the ‘generic’ burn result (autopicked 2.4x burn).
‘Datawrite classic’, media code ‘ProdiscF01’, ‘KProbe v243’ 4x scan:

As I said. Bad.
Scanning old DVD’s I had noticed a huge improvement (from really bad to very nice indeed) using lower scan speeds with KProbe2. So here’s the same scan at 1x speed:

Still not good enough (if the standard is 'look good at 4x scan speed).

Decided to bite the bullet and try the switch-strategy route.
Two ‘Prodis’ strategy available ‘PRODISCG02’ and ‘ProdiscS03’, picked the latter. Burner autopicking 4x burn speed (an ‘ProdiscS03’ strategy option) indicates media identification worked.

‘Datawrite Classic’, media code ‘ProdiscF01’, ‘ProdiscS03’ write strategy, KProbe2 scan at 4x:

Major improvement.
Decided to try 1x scan:

Better as expected. Pity about the worsening towards the end (still much better than ‘generic’ though).

  • Question. I didn’t dare click the “Apply Recommended media Tweaks” button (in OmniPatcher) because I don’t know what it does ? Bundled doc. “readme.html” is not specific.

Wanted the pics to appear ‘inside’ the text. With half hour grace to edit, this will have to do, rather than mess it up more and not be able to finish.