PI/PIF shows.... nothing?



So I’ve been reading over and over what PI errors and PI failures are supposed to show and maybe it’s just my burner, maybe it’s me, or a combination of the 2, but I just can’t see any correlation between PI/PIF and … well … anything.

I’m using a Samsung (TS-H552B TS12) which I know is very likely a crap choice when it comes to DVD Burners (it was cheap, I was suckered). I’m using OSi brand disks with the stamp TYG02 which I’m aware is probably also a bad choice of discs. But the problem isn’t that I can’t read them, on the contrary the problem is that despite sketchy PI/PIF rates they all seem to read perfectly. Can someone explain this to me?

The only time I ever get a skip when watching a DVD is if I have a bad sector or 2 when running a scan disc in Nero CD-DVD speed. But I can have millions upon millions of PI Errors/Failures and it doesn’t seem to have any effect.

Now the big question: I’ve read that if you re-burn media onto a new disc (perhaps a better brand disc with a better burner) that PI Errors don’t mean a thing because the drive corrects them and everything comes out as it should. I’m assuming that PI Failures are a different story? If PI failures are really causing “bad playback” what am I looking for? Artifacts? Skipping? I don’t really see anything noticible at all.

For instance I just finished watching this entire disc and it seemed perfect. No skipping no quality problems nothing.


The TSH552B that I had was absolutely terrible - both as a burner and scanner. If you’re discs are fake (which I suspect, as I’ve never eard TY discs under that brand before) then it certainly wouldn’t help matters. Yes the disc is readable, but there is no way to tell for how long. My recommendation is to buy Verbatim 16x discs (either + or -) or unbranded Taiyo Yuden’s (again, + or -) and back the discs up ASAP.

Can you buy a new burner?


I just bought 100 pack of legit Taiyo Yudens… They’re in the mail. And yes I’m thinking of buying a new burner before wasting them all in this piece of crap. Any suggestions? BenQs (1650?) seem to be the “standard” around here. I used to be partial to Plextor for CD-Rs, but their burners are quite expensive compared to most.

Any suggestions on a burner that’s good but also rather old (say 8x max burning rate) I have a slow (PIII 800MHz) computer that likely wouldn’t do well at a higher rate than that anyways.


Stick with the Benq 1650.

8x Verbatims or TY are available but the 1650 will probably do a very good job burning 16x TYs at 8x anyway.

To get the best out of your system ensure that the burner is on a separate IDE channel to your HDD & the HDD is regularly defragged with a decent amount of free space and DMA is enabled on all devices (UDMA 5 for HDD & UDMA 2 for the Benq) & you use good quality 80wire IDE cables and don’t do anything on it whilst it’s burning.


The 1650 is what I’ve got - I definately recommend it!


I too would go for a 1650 - excellent burner and scanner, rolled into one drive. I love mine. :slight_smile:


Okay I’ve got my BenQ now, but I’m still waiting on the Taiyos. Scanning with the BenQ comes up with very similar results (just making sure the samsung isn’t a poor reader). So now the big question: am I safe ripping these discs with so many PI failures into an ISO and re-burning them with the proper media/drive. (IE do PI failures transfer from disc to iso and affect the actual quality of the disc? Or are they simply a “how compatible will your media be” type deal?)


You’ll be fine ripping and re-burning. PIE/PIF scans are an indication of burn quality at a low level. If you are able to rip the data with no errors (CRC errors etc) then the data obtained from these discs will be “defect free”.

Many standalones these days have amazingly good error correction which is why these discs played well when viewed.

The best test of readability is to do a Transfer Rate Test in CD-DVD speed. You’re looking for a smooth transfer curve with no major dips/slowdown. You will notice that often, people here post both a quality scan and a TRT to cover all bases.

IMO a smoothe TRT is the most important thing for a movie backup/general use DVD. If the objective is to create a disc for long term archiving, then a good QS AND TRT is important (for me). :iagree:


No. PI Errors and PIF Failures on the original disc is irrelevant once you have successfully ripped the content onto your harddrive or copied the content to another DVD.

Too high PIE/PIF might make it impossible to copy the original disc perfectly, however!

Unless you are using a ripping program configured to ignore reading errors, you will be informed quite clearly if the original disc has unreadable sectors when copying!


Thanks for your help everyone. The BenQ SUCKS at reading the burned discs from the samsung (so I guess the QS did show something :clap: ), but luckily I found that out before I gave the samsung to my friend. I’m using dvd fab decrypter to rip the discs and the “Quality” score in that proggy is 100% when I rip them, so I’m assuming everything is OK.

Phew lots of work ahead of me, but it’ll be worth it in the end I’m sure. Thanks all! :bow:


like i said in another thread just copy the 2 folders on the bad dvd to your hard drive, no need for other programs to do it.