PC Audio/Video Production: Do I Have the Right Gear & What Else Do I Need?

Hello everyone,
I am trying to archive analog material, edit it in Nero WaveEditor, then burn to CD. I will summarize the process:
Analog material is recorded on a Denon DN-C550R standalone CD recorder; it has 24/96k A/D convertors. That disc is then ripped as .wav files to “Music” on my PC using Nero 9. The files are opened in NeroWaveEditor, edited and saved as “Save Tracks as Files” .wav files. The tracks are then added to NeroExpress, where I have been trying unsuccessfully to burn them to CD or CD-RW. I use a similar process to convert analog video to DVD/DVD-RW, using a Panasonic DVD recorder.

Here is the PC rundown:

[ul]
[li]HPG60-235DX/PentiumDual-Core T4200-2.00GHz[/li][li]Windows Vista Home Premium–Serv.Pack 2[/li][li]Conexant High Definition Smart Audio 221–driver[/li][li]Intel® High Definition Audio HDMI–driver[/li][li]Realtek USB 2.0 Card Reader–USB[/li][li]Slimtype DVD A DS8A2L-A–optical drive[/li][/ul]What upgrades should I make? Should I replace my optical drive and if so, with what kind? I have read numerous reviews of optical drives, but I don’t know exactly what to look for, except that I want high quality audio and video, with the flexiblity to upgrade (BluRay?). What about my soundcard? The BIG question is should I upgrade to Windows 7 and if so, which version? Also, what else would I need to go from my PC to the Denon CD recorder, besides a USB-Optical cable adapter. This way I would be able to master my Nero audio projects on the Denon in real-time. Thank you for your time in reading this and any suggestion is greatly appreciated,
Eric :slight_smile:

I’ll help with the two small sections where I know a little bit. Your slim dvd drive is not optimal for burning. Since your computer seems to be an HP laptop, you should look into a full sized external drive. They are getting harder to find, but there are still a few available. Here is an example from Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106338

External blu ray burners are fairly rare and expensive. Here is one, it is a rebadged Pioneer drive: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&Q=&IC=BUBRX816U2&A=RetrieveSku
If you absolutely need to burn blu ray, you might also consider a Pioneer 205, and put it into an external case.

Win 7 is a definite step up from Vista, but not absolutely necessary for what you are doing.

What problem are you having with burning the cds?

Thanks Kerry, I checked out the LiteOn, as well as a Plextor external drive. Are there not any good slimtype drives available or are the external ones inherently better? I cannot burn .wav files (tracks) to TDK-RW (1-4x) using Nero Express; the discs yielded great numbers on Disc Speed 5 after being recorded on the Denon standalone. So, I basically need a new optical drive (I thought so), but what about connecting my Denon standalone to my HP via USB-optical cable? What would I need to accomplish this? Thanks, Eric

Hi,[QUOTE=Eric Holtz;2549103]Are there not any good slimtype drives available or are the external ones inherently better?[/quote]Get a good half-height external one. I am very happy with my LG GE20NU10.

I cannot burn .wav files (tracks) to TDK-RW (1-4x) using Nero Express; the discs yielded great numbers on Disc Speed 5 after being recorded on the Denon standalone. So, I basically need a new optical drive (I thought so),
Or better blank media. :slight_smile: Or use these TDK only with your standalone recorder.

but what about connecting my Denon standalone to my HP via USB-optical cable?
What for? That way you will get additional quality loss. I think, your method of recording your material with your standalone (and then ripping to HD) is very good, since I expect the standalone to have much better filters and ADCs than the basic soundchips thrown into a laptop.

Michael

Hello everyone,
I posted this thread in the Hardware Forum, but I edited it and thought it was more applicable here.
I am trying to archive analog material, edit it in [B]Nero WaveEditor[/B], then burn to CD. I will summarize the process:
Analog material is recorded on a [B]Denon DN-C550R[/B] standalone CD recorder; it has 24/96k A/D convertors. That disc is then ripped as .wav files to “Music” on my PC using [B]Nero 9[/B]. The files are opened in [B]NeroWaveEditor[/B], edited and saved as “Save Tracks as Files” .wav files. The tracks are then added to [B]NeroExpress[/B], where I have been trying [U]unsuccessfully[/U] to burn them to CD or CD-RW. I use a similar process to convert analog video to DVD/DVD-RW, using a Panasonic DVD recorder.

Here is the PC rundown:

[ul]
[li]HPG60-235DX/PentiumDual-Core T4200-2.00GHz[/li][li]Windows Vista Home Premium–Serv.Pack 2[/li][li]Conexant High Definition Smart Audio 221–[U]driver[/U][/li][li]Intel® High Definition Audio HDMI–[U]driver[/U][/li][li]Realtek USB 2.0 Card Reader–[U]USB[/U][/li][li]Slimtype DVD A DS8A2L-A–[U]optical drive[/U][/li][/ul]What upgrades should I make? Should I replace my slimtype optical drive and if so, with what kind? I have read numerous reviews of optical drives, but I don’t know exactly what to look for, except to say that my entire purpose is to achive and master music/video at the highest quality possible. What about my soundcard? The BIG question is should I upgrade to [B]Windows 7[/B] and if so, which version? Also, what else would I need to go from my [B]PC[/B] to the [B]Denon CD recorder[/B], besides a USB-Optical cable adapter? I would then be able to master my [B]Nero[/B] audio projects on the [B]Denon [/B]in real-time. I would much rather master with my laptop onto [B]MAM-A (Mitsui)[/B] discs; the 1-12x archive gold discs have worked perfectly in the Denon standalone. Thank you for your time in reading this and any suggestion is greatly appreciated,
Eric :slight_smile:

Creating a new thread on the same subject is called crossposting and is against the rules of the forum. It causes confusion on where to post answers.

I have merged the older thread in Gen. Hardware into this one.

Thank you Kerry and sorry for the confusion.

Thanks for the comments Michael. If I get an external burner for audio and video, what happens to the slimtype in the laptop? Does it become permantly disabled?

I also am curious like Kerry56, so "what problem are you having with burning the cds?..
Are the wav files still 24bit/96khz?..FYI (if of course you’re not aware) standard Audio CD is 16bit/44.1khz/pcm/wav…Perhaps the wav tracks are/is the problem/issue?..While it’s good to record at highest bit depth and sample rate, the final product for [I]standard audio CD [/I]is still 16/44.1khz…Which btw, is good enough for most ears…:wink:
I would try a different burning app…You never know…Burrrn, BurnAware free, Imgburn, just to name a few…

[QUOTE=Eric Holtz;2549523] If I get an external burner for audio and video, what happens to the slimtype in the laptop? Does it become permantly disabled?[/QUOTE]No. You simply have two drives available when the external drive is connected.

Michael

Thanks for the comments. Yes, I am aware that my professional CD recorder conforms to Redbook 16bit/44.1kHz, but I suspected that its A/DCs where better than what is in my computer. Speaking of which, what about my Conexant soundcard? Do I need a new one? What about an optical drive that is geared towards audio mastering?

[QUOTE=Eric Holtz;2549690]Thanks for the comments. Yes, I am aware that my professional CD recorder conforms to Redbook 16bit/44.1kHz, but I suspected that its A/DCs where better than what is in my computer. [/quote]Exactly.

Speaking of which, what about my Conexant soundcard? Do I need a new one?
Despite the “HD Audio” claim, I’d consider it much worse than your standalone recorder. I think, using the recorder and then to rip the audio on a computer is an excellent method that gives you the best results for the source material.
The audio device of your computer is not involved into the processing at all.

What about an optical drive that is geared towards audio mastering?
I doubt these exist. If you think your internal DVD writer is not good enough, then get an external one - you have been given some hints already.

Also, I am still missing information about the exact problem. Nerö provides log files, these often help troubleshooting. As far as I have understood, the problem is at the end of the processing chain, so this could be narrowed down to the CD/DVD writer and/or media (unless there is some problem with your Windows installation). Another audio card would not help here.

Michael

Thank you again Michael,
I don’t think (gut feeling too) that my internal DVD drive is up to the task of critical audio/video mastering of archive material. The [B]Slimtype DVD A DS8A2L-A[/B] (manufacturer listed as [U]Standard CD-ROM drives[/U]) just sounds like a “generic” drive and has no updates or upgrades.

My issues with [B]Nero[/B] come down to the final burns. I have been using [B]TDK CD-RW (1-4x)[/B], the same ones I have been using on the Denon standalone, and which have yielded the best numbers I have ever noted in [B]Disc Speed 5[/B] ([U][B]Max Errors-2[/B][/U], [U][B]Total-21[/B] [/U]for example). Once finished in the PC though, the RWs are not recognized by my Philips player, while RWs made on the standalone are. The PC burns are recognized by the Denon standalone. These burns have generated the worst numbers on [B]Disc Speed[/B] scans. I have used some “guinea pig” CD-R discs from [B]TDK (CMC Magnetics)[/B] and [B]Maxell (Ritek)[/B] and have recieved similar results. My choice media that I have been using for the standalone recorder are [B]MAM-A (Mitsui) Gold Digital Audio 80MB 1x-12x[/B] discs. They have never let me down, so I thought I would give their 52x discs a spin on my PC, but not until I have a drive that I am sure will do them justice. I can’t afford to have bad burns–can any of us? Thanks again,
Eric :slight_smile:

Not sure how an internal drive "just [I]sounds[/I] like a “generic” drive " but hey, none of us share ears, right?..:wink:
I have to agree maybe look into an external and try other media…IMO, choosing CD-R or RW’s is not [I]as[/I] critical as purchasing/choosing DVD discs(IMO)…It’s still of course good idea/practice to get the most reliable/best possible media that’s compatible with you equip…
I’ve used Verbs, Sony’s, crappy memos, TDK’s etc…CD media [I]is[/I] cheap enough, and no I don’t live in the land of milk and honey ;)… That said, the TY’s are still the most reliable and recommended CD-R media available…Try them with your new or existing drive…
Good luck!..:cool:
http://www.supermediastore.com/product/u/taiyo-yuden-52x-cd-r-silver-thermal-printable-value-line-100-pack?

Hi,[QUOTE=Eric Holtz;2549737]I don’t think (gut feeling too) that my internal DVD drive is up to the task of critical audio/video mastering of archive material. [/quote]Unfortunately, this is often the case with Liteon drives :frowning:

(…) I have used some “guinea pig” CD-R discs from [B]TDK (CMC Magnetics)[/B] and [B]Maxell (Ritek)[/B] and have recieved similar results.
Although not stellar these media should be good enough for (temporary) audio discs. So your drive is doing something wrong.
See if you can get a LG GE20NU[B]10[/B] or GE20LU[B]10.[/B] A very nice external drive. Since already replaced by some successor, this might be hard to find.

My choice media that I have been using for the standalone recorder are [B]MAM-A (Mitsui) Gold Digital Audio 80MB 1x-12x[/B] discs. They have never let me down, so I thought I would give their 52x discs a spin on my PC,
These are not the same quality as the old stuff. As already suggested, get Taiyo Yuden media. Nowadays often sold under JVC brand. Make sure, they are “Made in Japan”.

Michael

Thanks Michael,
I have looked into Taiyo Yuden “Made in Japan” CD-R media and am going to order a small amount in order to verify that they are compatible with my current drive. The next step will be DVD-Rs.
Also, I was wondering if your reply in another thread may apply to me:
"[B]The problem is not Windows, it’s the user. %user% wants to run its computer logged in as “Administrator”. %user% wants to install expensive commercial software downloaded from some dubious torrent. and therefore, %user% does not want to install any security updates for the software it had installed. %user% does not want to think before it clicks.[/B]
[B]I don’t have any mercy with these users complaining about malware they have allowed to get installed on their computers.[/B]
[B]You can secure a Windows installation on a high level without any 3rd party software.[/B]"
I do not know whether use my administrator account for everything or to use my standard user account for everything.

I forgot to ask what type of Taiyo Yuden/JVC CD-R is recommended for archival grade audio? I’ve seen a great deal of “Value Line” and some “Premium” around, but I am not sure which to get for mastering purposes. The MAM-A discs I have been using are made specifically for archive mastering (1-12x), so what would be the Taiyo Yuden equivalent to use on my PC at 1-52x? Thank you again,
Eric

QUOTE=Eric Holtz;2549996
I do not know whether use my administrator account for everything or to use my standard user account for everything.[/QUOTE]Control Panel --> user accounts (or how it is called in a non-German Windows :wink:
I guess, you know the username.

By default, the first user created during installation belongs to the Administrator group.
Users that are added later belong to the Admin group also on XP by default (unless you change it during the creation of the account). On Windows 7, the second, 3rd etc user now belong to the group of (restricted) users by default, which is the preferred setting.

Michael

P.S.: for experiments, you can use the Value stuff (if it is significantly cheaper), otherwise get the “Premium”.

Thanks again Michael :),
I am using Vista, not XP, if it makes any difference.
When and why should I use my administrator account?
When should I use my standard user account?

Hi,[QUOTE=Eric Holtz;2550091]
I am using Vista, not XP, if it makes any difference.[/quote]I hope it is similar to Win 7, but I don’t know for sure. So you need to check in Control Panel.

When and why should I use my administrator account?
For system maintenance, installing software and drivers.

When should I use my standard user account?
For all tasks except for administrative purpose. :slight_smile:

Michael