Older CD player (in car)



Hi everyone,

I have a Blaupunkt Colorado (CM168) head unit and Blaupunkt A08 CD-Changer in my trusty Civic. It was purchased from Crutchfield around 2000. Anyway, I’ve been having a helluva time getting it to flawlessly play burned cd-r’s the last few years. I get a lot of chirps and skips. Burned music discs used to work just fine with this setup. (Maybe the discs I used back then were of the 650MB variety?) Original retail, pressed cd’s still work okay.

Reading the forums, I’m learning that my “older” cd player might indeed prefer 650MB discs. Also, Cyanine-based dye like on Fuji (TY-Made in Japan) discs work very well. However, some of this info is dated by a 3-4 years, so is this still valid? Will Fuji cd-r’s purchased at Best Buy in San Diego most likely be a good choice to try out? If that doesn’t work, I may have to look online for 650MB versions of these discs, correct?



Firstly try a CD cleaner, maybe the players lens could benefit from this.

Secondly I use Verbatim CDs and burn at 16x (the recommended speed here) and get no such problems now although I used to before I made these 2 changes.

Some versions of Nero might also give problems so trying Burrrn (www.burrrn.net) might help.


I expect disc type to make much more of a difference than 650MB vs 700MB discs.

The stock system in my 02 Civic has problems playing otherwise excellent Ritek audio CD-Rs (symptoms: disc loading and track skipping are very slow and noisy, lots of spin up/spin down… but plays fine once it gets started if you don’t skip tracks)… but works flawlessly with Taiyo Yuden blanks. Note that the Ritek discs are pthalocyanine (silver bottom) and the Taiyo Yuden discs are cyanine (green bottom).

If the Fuji discs at your Best Buy say “Made in Japan” on the packaging, they’ll be TYs. Otherwise if they say “Made in Taiwan” you may be best off buyng online. I recommend www.rima.com.


IMO it is still valid, I’ve never had a problem playing cyanine cds, but pthalocyanine has given me nothing but trouble…I’m guessing the darker dye has better contrast or something which makes it easier to read. however, I have heard that pthalocyanine discs are more stable/last longer, but I’m starting to think that is a load of bull cuz I have a bunch of almost 10 year old el cheapo cyanine disks that still work fine


Thanks. You guys are great!

I’ll get a cd lens cleaner and Fuji discs tomorrow at Best Buy when I go pick up the latest Modest Mouse cd :slight_smile: First I’ll try just the cd cleaner and my remaining Maxell cd-r’s, using Burrrrn. If still problematic, I’ll open up the Fuji’s and try those.

I’ll let you all know how it goes.



Well, my Maxell branded Ritek CD-Rs don’t work very well in my Blaupunkt CDC (Bought 1999 or so). CMC, Verbatim DL+ and of course TY do fine there. Haven’t used any cleaner since I bought the set :slight_smile:



Best Buy didn’t have any Made in Japan Fuji’s, only made in Taiwan. I also couldn’t find any reasonably priced cd lens cleaner ($10-15.) Oh well, maybe this weekend I can check Fry’s or Circuit City, etc. At least the Modest Mouse cd sounds good :bigsmile:

I’ve read some warnings about using cd lens cleaning discs but am still willing to give it a try, eventually. Worse comes to worse, I can ditch my Blaupunkt setup for an new mp3/cd player head unit…



Try K-Mart for the Fuji CD-R’s - someone reported in the Bargain Basement Forum that K-Mart has a boatload of Made In Japan Fuji’s freshly in stock-

Suggest y’all check it out-eh!


You can always buy online and try finding genuine Taiyo Yuden discs. I recently stocked up on 100 650MB TY discs for my PS1 backups.

I’d burn at 16x for audio - What kind of cd/dvd writer do you have btw?

If all else fails, maybe look at a new cd player. But I think you should be ok if you could find some TY discs, whether they are 700MB or 650MB might not make a huge difference but I would go for the 650MB ones if you can find them, since your player is an older one.


Media certainly will make a difference. There’s no one “better” type or brand for older players, it’s just a matter of figuring out what your particular deck reads best.

Recording quality also makes a big difference. Making CD’s to listen to in the GF’s vehicle on it’s factory [P.O.S] ford deck was a learning experience. Discs burned at high speed [24x] would always skip or hang at some point in that deck even though they played fine in my circa 1988 Denon home player and anywhere else, but, those burned at 16x usually played fine. It also likes darker blue discs I burned ages ago over silver ones made today.

Also realize that CD players in cars lead a horrid life with extremes of temperature and vibration. Older decks were less able to make focus corrections even when new, throw in 7 years of use and vibration and the laser pickup isn’t going to be in the best of shape.


I didn’t realize I was getting responses. I just now changed setting to notify me with an instant email…

I really want to get another brand of head unit that can also play mp3s, but the cd changer will only work with other Blaupunkt head units. So, I want to try and milk this system for as long as possible. Since pressed cd’s still work well, I think this is a good point.

Thanks for the heads up on K-mart. I’ll definitely check them out. I’m a little reluctant to order online because of the hassle of returning if they still don’t work.

I’ve tried different burners with similar results. One was a Lite-On 811 and I don’t know the other one off top of my head. I do know that all burned cd’s work fine on a computer.

Here’s the latest: I found an old blank 650MB TDK cyanine disc in my closet that came with a burner I bought some 8 years ago. I burned a copy of my new cd and it works as good as the original!!! It worked about 98-99% perfectly :stuck_out_tongue: which is good for now. I heard a couple small skips but none of the numerous annoying chirps that pervaded previous burns. I am almost positive the difference has all to do with the cyanine (blue-green) dye.

Is copying cd to cd-r as good as ripping with EAC then burning with Burrrrn?
I’ll check out Kmart for those discs and give it a try.



Ripping with EAC and then burning them should suffice. You shouldn’t notice any differences if any exists. If you are paranoid about differences, there is a huge body of knowledge on the Internet about making bit-perfect copies.

Talking about cheap 10 year old crap, 10 year old cheap crap might be better than a lot of the stuff sold in the store today.