New S182M Only Burns Coasters -- Ideas?

Bought a 10-pack of 16X Verbatim DVD+R Lightscribes to test. Media code MCC 004. First two data DVDs were coasters with Nero Express 6 (burned first one at 4X with SB04 FW, next one at 8X with SB02 just to change things up).

Boy, am I frustrated with this thing. Plays pressed DVDs just fine. Here’s the PC setup:

Compaq DeskPro EN PIII 733/133 Bus speed, small form factor PC
(don’t laugh, it runs great for a legacy PC)
Win2K SP4, fully patched
Seagate Barracuda 250GB Ultra ATA/100 hard drive
Bios = Max UDMA enabled for both drives
Windows = Ultra DMA Mode enabled for both IDE controllers (default PIO mode was too slow to play DVD movies, was a little choppy at times)

  • Installed all Nero Express 6 updates from Nero’s site
  • Installed latest Lightscribe update
  • Tried two different 80-pin EIDE cables for the burner, also tried both CS and Master jumper settings
  • No problems reported in Device Manager
  • Passed all the benchmark tests in Nero CD-DVD Speed, created a test CD just fine (Fuji/Taiyo Yuden media)

When I burned a data DVD at 4X, it completed “successfully”, but failed during the data verification – lots of errors listed in ranges. I watched the internal buffer while burning, and it stayed in the 90’s percent range the entire time.

When I burned at 8X, it only got about 1-2% into the burn when it failed right after the lead-in. I thought this thing liked Verbatim media from all the posts and reviews. Nero 6 Express auto bit-set it to DVD-ROM.

I recently read other posts saying how this drive seems to do better having its own dedicated power line from the PSU. Can’t do that on this PC – it only has one pair of power leads in series off the same wires from the PSU. So both the hard drive and burner are powered in series, with the burner taking the power plug closest to the PSU.

Also, at higher spin speeds (burning and playing, doesn’t matter), this S182M drive makes a soft but ultra high-pitched squeaking whine (like at dog hearing frequencies – slight exaggeration so you get the idea). Wasn’t sure if this was a characteristic of the drive or whether I got a lemon. Definitely annoying, like fingers on a blackboard.

Before I bought it, I was trying to decide between this and the LG GSA-H42LI. Still within the 30-day return period at the store. Never had this much problem with a burner before – makes me appreciate my trusty Yamaha CRW3200E that’s still going strong in another PC, never burned a single coaster after hundreds of burns.

Any ideas on these problems, or am I just better off returning it and starting over?

Anyone? Bueller? :wink:

Pease don’t be impatient. If anyone has good advice, he will post - or he won’t, just at his desire. You can’t force getting an answer, and I will delete any “bump” message in future :cop:

Back to topic: Please post detailed information about your PSU. You can find these on a sticker attached.


Sorry Michael, good point. Just really frustrated with this drive, that’s all. The PSU is the original Compaq unit and has a max output of 120W per the sticker. There’s only two power leads – one for the floppy drive, and the other one has the two plugs for the HD and DVD in series.

Just wondering if this Samsung is salvageable or if I should just take it back and start over with something else. However, if it’s a power issue, then am I going to have similar problems with other brands?

Does the 182 require to run in UDMA4 mode?

Then you cannot use it with your old computer/mobo, the only solution would be an extra and appropriate ide controller card.

Definitly need more RAM.

DVD burning is even possible with only 256 MB of RAM.
I tried it myself on an Intel Pentium III (1.0 GHz), 256 MB of SD-RAM (133), and an old Seagate 30 GB hard drive, with LG GSA-4163B about a year ago… so the RAM is not the culprit (IMO).

The 182D is UDMA2, so possibly the M variant should be the same :slight_smile:

As mentioned I would suspect the PSU :slight_smile:


This might not be enough to power [i][B]any [/B][/I]DVD writer. The power consumption of such a drive is about 24-30 Watt, if it is writing a disc.
With luck, the PSU can be replaced by a standard ATX PSU (300W class is okay), if not, then you’ll have also to replace the whole case of your computer.

Just wondering if this Samsung is salvageable or if I should just take it back and start over with something else. However, if it’s a power issue, then am I going to have similar problems with other brands?
Yes. With that PSU, you won’t get any DVDRW drive working.


Samsung 182M is also UDMA/2.

Thanks everyone, I truly appreciate the feedback. I too was very concerned with the PSU being able to handle it.

You may not believe this, but yesterday I replaced the S182M with an LG GSA-H42L from Best Buy (on sale this week too for $50), and it works just fine. Went to exchange the Sammy but they were out, so I got the LG just to see.

Burned a data DVD+R just fine @ 4X (haven’t tried higher yet), several audio CDs @ 16X (Nero test showed it would work at up to 32X on my PC), and Lightscribed 'em all. Wonderful!

Only trade-off is that the LG can’t scan for errors and I don’t think it has Mt. Ranier (which I never used anyway). Small price to pay for easy install and working right off the bat, no troubleshooting required. Pressed DVDs play great.

Not bashing the Sammy – probably just got a defective one, or it’s just pickier with power. Thought I’d post my results.