New Burner

vbimport

#1

I want to get myself a new CD burner,
I need something that can handle the newer copy protections like the new Securom and Safedisc 2.5 + up, something that can copy the newer games coming out.

My crappy HP CD-Writer+ just isn’t up to par anymore, any suggestions?


#2

I second this question.

I’ve been reading various threads and following links for a while now trying to make sense of all the info. Just when I think I’ve made up my mind I follow another thread and WHAM I’m undecided again.

I don’t plan to burn or read anywhere near the maximum speed of the newer drives. I guess I’m old fashioned but I burn and read my games at 4x. I just want one that can handle the most newer protection schemes and can also function as a reader if I need it to. Once I trust it I may burn my data cds (the rar sets) at higher speeds.

What I’m getting from all of the reading is that just because elby.com rates a reader or burner as two sheep doesn’t necessarily mean that it can handle all current levels of copy protection.

My primary focus is games but I do burn apps and music on occasion.

So far an Asus 40x seems to be the best choice but it is harder to find since it is now considered an older model. Next choice looks to be a Liteon 40x but there are some newer protections it has trouble reading and burning. The Liteon 52X is attractively priced but again there are some things it can’t handle.

Burning is more important than reading because I dl most of the rar sets from the newsgroups - I just need to be able to burn it (assuming the imager did a proper job).

Comments/suggestions ???

I’m running:

PIII - 500
Windows 98 Second Edition
384 MB RAM (obviously can be bumped)
An old TEAC CD-ROM
My burner seems to have died (that’s another thread)


#3

I’m not really concerned with music CD’s or speed, all i’d really be using it for is to make backups of games.

I just can’t make good backups of most games that have been released recently.


#4

just get the cheapest lite-on you can find.

doesn’t matter whether it is a 48x, 40x, 32x, 24x, etc. All lite-ons do copy protections fine.


#5

no burner is perfectly capable of handling every single copy protection, but lite-on is among the best (if not the best) at handling more than the other brands.


#6

Thank you for the responses.

Not to beat a dead horse but I want to be clear on this:

If I go with a Liteon am I correct in assuming there is no functional difference between a unit branded Liteon or a relabelled unit (Memorex, Sony, BusLink, etc.) ?? (Which makes me wonder - how can another company sell a unit for less than Liteon does ???) Are you aware of any major differences that matter (warranty, software and such) between the various companies ?? The units I’ve checked all seem pretty much the same - one year limited parts and labor.

In other words - "…just get the cheapest lite-on you can find. "


#7

this horse must be so tired of being beaten… try using the search button to answer ur questions.

there are no functional differences.


#8

Thanks AZImmortal.

I’m sure the horse is thoroughly dead. Sorry for the bother.

Trying to make sense of all I found by searching is what led to my question.

Your second sentence answers the question. Thank you.


#9

Well, I think i’ve got 2 burners in mind

Plextor Plexwriter 48x24x48x (PX-W4824TA/SW-BL)

Liteon 52x24x52x (LTR-52246)

The Plextor retails for $160 CAD and the LiteOn goes for $88 (OEM), there’s quite a price different between the 2 and the LiteOn is faster. Which one would you go for? Which one would be better for game copy protections?


#10

LITE-ON 52x24x52x (LTR-52246S)

:cool:


#11

Lite-on is by far better than plextor. Go for the lite-on:)


#12

Thank you for the responses gentlemen - even though I didn’t start this thread.


#13

Just an FYI (and I just have to tell someone):

Re: the $20 BusLink 52x24x52

All of the Best Buy units here were JustLinks (JustLink bad :frowning: ). So were Staples’, Office Depot’s, and CompUSA’s (or they said Buffer underrun technology).

Strangely enough all of Circuit City’s units are SmartBurn (LiteOn good :bigsmile: :bigsmile: ). It took some juggling but I am now the (hopefully) proud owner of a LiteOn 52X.


#14

Sweet.:cool: Now flash that baby to a true Lite-On. Word of caution, if you plan on flashing, go w/ the 6S0C. The new 6S0D is not getting good feedbacks.


#15

Stoner:

You just had to go and confuse me. :stuck_out_tongue: :confused:

The BusLink label on top of the unit says it is a model LTR-52246S. I peeled back the BusLink label and there is a LiteOn IT label underneath that also says it is a model LTR-52246S.

Are you saying the firmware is/may be different depending on the name of the company on the box ???


#16

No, I’m just saying that since it’s a rebadge Lite-On, maybe it’d read out BusLink instead of Lite-On in device manager or InfoTool (I have no idea since I don’t buy rebadge). Again, as long as the unit says Smart-Burn, it’s a Lite-On. The LTR-52246S is just another confirmation. It’s really up to you whether to flash your drive to read Lite-On or keep it as BusLink.


#17

Thanks Stoner.

I guess the flash or not question will have to wait until I uninstall the old burner and install this one. Then I can see what the firmware is and how the burner is displayed in Device Manager.

Are there any things in particular I should watch for or pay attention to during this process ???


#18

None from my experience. Rarely have problem installing hardware on my system. Most of the time it’s plug it in and turn the system on (switching the jumper first to appropriate setting first of course).


#19

Are you saying the firmware is/may be different depending on the name of the company on the box ???

sony, memorex, and verbatim have their own namestrings and firmware. as far as i know, cendyne and buslink keep their drives in their “original” condition.


#20

Stoner and AZImmortal:

Burner is installed. In the boot-up screen (where Windows displays your RAM and drives) it is recognized as a LiteOn 52246S.

The firmware shows as 6S0A (is that a zero or an O ?).

Other than recognizing more media for high-speed burning is there any reason to flash the firmware ??? I don’t plan on burning at anywhere near 52x.