Nero cd/dvd speed


First post here. :stuck_out_tongue:

I thought I needed some advice because I’ve slowly discovered over the last year, my first year of cd/dvd burning, that blank media is very fickle stuff.

I just realised that nearly everything I burnt over the last 3 months is fading fast. DVDs I burnt are unreadable now.

I initially went for cheap unbranded stuff - budget brand DVD-Rs and soon realised that the data faded and corrupted fast. So I did a little research and found that Ritek DVD-Rs G04 Dye were recommended. So I bought 100 Ritek 16x G05 Dye DVD-Rs assuming they would be as good.

Now I realise that they are worse than the first batch, DVD backups I burnt just 3 months ago won’t play for more than 30 minutes without sticking. Seems to be linked to the temperature I think. At least the data is salvagable using VobBlanker. At least the discs I’ve tried are.

All the disks were verified using Nero at the time of burning.

Basically, I would like to check my blank media using Nero CD/DVD Speed as I have the Nero 7 Premium which includes Speed version 4.09.3. I’ve tried testing my DVDs on it but it says my “drive does not support this function”

My burner is a NEC DVD_RW ND-3500AG 2.19 with driver version 5.1.2535.0.

I’d like to test my burnt media and show it to you guys and see what you think - any ideas?

I got some Verbatim 16x DVD-Rs which I’d like to compare.

Amy advice would be greatly appreciated.


Since your drive doesn’t support PI/PIF quality scanning, run transfer rate or scandisc tests on the discs using CD-DVD Speed.

Ritek G05 discs are well known to give people problems over time, I would suggest backing up all of your discs to the Verbatim discs that you bought before it’s too late to do so. The easiest way to do this would be to use DVD Decrypter, use the ‘ISO read’ mode and rip the disc to your hard drive as an ISO image, then use DVD Decrypter to write to a new disc using the ‘ISO write’ mode. I would suggest burning your 16x discs at 12x, 16x media typically burns better at 12x than 16x and the time difference is minimal.

Hi, thanks for replying. :slight_smile:

Isn’t that the program on Nero? Can’t I just run non PI/PIF scans on my current version?

I’m starting to pick up on the sheer badness of the G05s. I heard good things about the G04s and just assumed… (wish I’d found a site like this earlier)
Annoyingly I had been confident with the G05s and had been using them to back up earlier stuff!

Will do. Does this ‘iron out’ any small flaws?

Plus, what is your opinion on these medias I have burned on - wondering whether to back them up or not. (I used DVD Identifier- recommended by one of your colleagues)

DVD+R YUDEN000 T02 (Hyundai)
DVD-R TYG02 (Budget)
DVD-R MCC 03RG20 (Verbatim 16x)


Yes, you can use your existing version of CD-DVD Speed to run the tests I described. CD-DVD Speed is actually a free program that anyone can download off of the internet, although your version is one of the latest, if not the latest.

Yeah, it sucks about Ritek, you are one of many users that come on here and have heard good things about Ritek from one source or another in the past and are now having problems using their current media. They made pretty good media at one point, but it’s been downhill for close to two years now for Ritek. Ritek G05 in particular has burned well initially for many users, only to deteriorate within months.

When ripping a disc to copy it using DVD Decrypter (or any other program for that matter really), it either ‘gets the data or it doesn’t’, byte by byte, so you can often rip the majority of a ‘bad’ disc but not all (nearly always it is the outer edge of the disc that is a problem extracting). DVD Decrypter, by default, will re-read any byte of data that it cannot extract on the first attempt, and you can adjust the number of retries in the settings. If there are only a handful of errors, you can just copy it that way and effect on the disc, if it’s a DVD Video disc in particular, will be minimal or may not be noticed at all. For example, say you have a disc that has the last 5MB of data unreadable, and it is a movie burned on a DVD. If you are lucky, the unreadable data may be the credits (end of movie, edge of disc), a trailer, etc. You can also rip the disc file by file using DVD Decrypter if you have read problems, that way you can single out the file(s) that are unreadable and go from there. I could go on and on with more details about ripping discs, just give it a try and hopefully all will be well. Try ripping a couple of discs and see how it goes, if you encounter problems then post back with specifics.

To the media you listed, the Verbatim is good media, but the Hyundai is using what is known as ‘faked’ media codes for their discs, which is to say that is uses a Taiyo Yuden media code but it’s actually cheap generic media (probably Infosmart). And, assuming you mean ‘budget’ as the actual brand, the same story applies to that media - fake media coded TY. I’ve used fake media coded media and you’ll never get great results with it, but you can sometimes get at least so-so results with it, although long term stability is in doubt (although mine have been ok thus far).

In the future, Verbatim is good media that is often found for sale at very good prices, it’s as good a choice as any.

Great, thanks for your help.

I’m scanning the Verbatim right now - looks flawless.


I wholeheartedly concur with all scoobiedoobie comments and advice :iagree: (just in case you wouldn’t be 100% convinced… :wink: )

Good luck :slight_smile:

Thanks, but I usually trust a Post Count like that!


wow - i just clocked yours! :eek:

Take a look here :bigsmile:

Or here :bigsmile:

I think I saw someone with a 13000+ posts but I don’t remember who (was in the living room section I think).

Oh yes, I forgot Kenshin :bigsmile: