More Verbatim suckage

Bah, after my problems with the 40x “Made in India” discs refusing to burn faster than 16x on my Lite-On 2410b, here’s something even worse.

I purchased a spindle of 50 Datalife Plus rated at 24x thinking they are the same as the ones I had used before with great success. However, all CDs I make with these are coasters. When I try to copy the CD back to the HD it almost always fails, if not there’s a lot of jumping and skipping and it takes ages. Usually problems occur towards the end of the disc.

The only visable difference between these and the 100s of other “Datalife+” I have burned is that the Verbtim logo is red. So I used CDR ID to see if they were different. Here’s a strange thing, these discs have the same info as the other discs that worked great!

ATIP: 97m 34s 22f
Disc Manufacturer: Mitsubishi Chemicals Corp.
Reflective layer: Dye (Long strategy; e.g. Cyanine, Azo etc.)
Media type: CD-Recordable
Recording Speeds: min. unknown - max. unknown
nominal Capacity: 702.83MB (79m 59s 74f / LBA: 359849)

Is it possible that two discs have the same ATIP but are different? I have burned 100s of Verbatim Datalife+ 24x without problems. Now all of a sudden I get these that don’t work right, but appear to be the same (except for the logo).

Anyone know where I can buy TY in the UK at reasonable prices?

Ally

verbatim super azo and metal azo give the same atip one is dark blue and one is green. i never have had any problems with them. i think the problem is your silly liteoff writer is not compatible.

lol “silly liteoff”? One of the best drives I owned m8, and I had quite a few over the many years I’ve been burning. Easily the worst drives I’ve had have been Plextor, with any drive I’ve had needing replaced within a year. I switched to Liteon because I was fed up paying a premium for poor quality drives. I usually get flamed for saying that, but hey.

So far it’s burned everything I’ve thrown at it, even the cheapest of trash, except for the newer Verbatims. I wish they would bring out a newer firmware, but they seem to be only concerned with their flagship models and forget about the rest of us :frowning:

Thanks for the info

@cdpirate:
I get 97 34 21 for Metal Azo and 97 34 22 for Super Azo. Doesn’t look same to me.

Originally posted by alexnoe
@cdpirate:
I get 97 34 21 for Metal Azo and 97 34 22 for Super Azo. Doesn’t look same to me.

@Alexnoe:
that could be easily overlooked by anyone. by the way does the last digit represent the dye type or something??

@Evil Ally:
liteon might burn everything you throw at it but have you checked the cd for errors. it may burn all the way through but the written cdr could have many errors on it, so use nero cd speed and do a surface scan to check that your burns are good.

I have actually. I’m particuarly careful when trying new media, and I do random checks here and there to make sure things are running right. I know what you mean about it appearing to burn right and errors showing up in CD Speed. I caught it before when I accidentally burned an 8x disc at 24x, it appeared to burn fine but the disc had quite a few errors on it. Trust me when I say I’m the last person who would tolerate trash in his system :slight_smile: As I say the only downfall so far is the firmware not being kept as up to date as I would like.

But having said that, some people have luck with one brand, others not (me and plextor for example). Have you had a bad experience with liteon?

Originally posted by Evil Ally
But having said that, some people have luck with one brand, others not (me and plextor for example). Have you had a bad experience with liteon?

nah, i have actually had good success with my DVD rom which happens to be a liteon :smiley: . i only pay out people with liteons for fun. :bigsmile: i have had bad experiences with one brand: the very over rated kodak gold cdrs. people say they are soooooo good but they get wrecked so damn easy. every time i put forward my opinion of kodak someone gets angry at me. I better lay low for a while:eek:

I had some Verbatim 24x datalife+ that were made in Mexico, they were complete crap when burned over 16x.

@cdpirate: the last digit should be the dye type, but I don’t know if all manufacturers know that…there are certainly some who don’t care about this.