Many questions re Lite-On firmwares for LH-20A1P and DH20A4P

The massive information involved is already pushing my brain into an overloaded condition. Sorry but I can’t spend a lifetime reading everything just to discover the fulfilment for some relatively narrow needs. :confused:

I’ve tried to read partway through the very lengthy discussion of a “Flash Utility for LiteOn Based Optical Drives” from COdeKing, but it is far too technical, complicated, and way beyond my ability to comprehend it. I don’t really know what he is talking about, so I can’t attempt to use it. For example, what’s the difference between a firmware and a flasher, if any? It seems like someone has overlooked the needs of relative newbies like me.

What I need is some simple (hopefully) specific advice for upgrading the firmware in a couple of my Lite-On drives. Is that possible?

Thanks for any help.

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The links do not work (go nowhere) at the liteonit.com website explaining how to flash a Lite-On drive using their downloadable zip files, which unzip to become .exe files:
–Audio / Video Products Firmware Upgrade Instruction
–Optical Storage Products Firmware Upgrade Instruction
So where do I get that information?

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LH-20A1P

http://us.liteonit.com/us/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=153
http://www.liteonit.com/DOWNLOADS/ODD/LH-20A1P/firmware/DR20KL0N.zip (12/25/2007)
unzipped is "UP FW"KLON.exe 834,048 bytes

This exe file when displayed in Windows Explorer, or if the properties are examined, has an imbedded yellow and red graphic with the words or acronymns “Up FW”. I’ve never seen anything like it before, anywhere. What is the meaning and purpose of that graphic?

There’s another firmware version for LH-20A1P (can’t remember where I got it) which downloads as 20A1P.KLON.stock.rar and uncompresses to become 20A1P.KLON.stock.exe 3,282,432 bytes. This is apparently the one used by MCSE. Why does MCSE use this one rather than the one from the above official liteonit.com website?

Why are there these two different versions, one from the liteonit.com website and one from an independent (apparently) source? What’s the difference. Can either be used without problems?

Furthermore, at http://codeguys.rpc1.org/lofw/ there are two versions of KLON.zip listed for LH-20A1P, dubbed LH-20A1PX and LH-20A1PU. What does the X and U at the end mean? What’s the difference? How am I supposed to know which one to use for my LH-20A1P drive?

DH20A4P

http://us.liteonit.com/us/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=153
http://www.liteonit.com/DOWNLOADS/ODD/DH-20A4P/firmware/9P59.ZIP (02/15/2008)
unzipped is "UpFW"9P59.exe 1,027,072 bytes

This .exe file when displayed in Windows Explorer, or if the properties are examined, also has an imbedded yellow and red graphic with “Up FW”. What is the meaning and purpose of that graphic?

My new DH20A4P drive manufactured Dec’07 came with 9P57 firmware installed.
So is this the right firmware and/or flasher to use to upgrade firmware to 9P59?
Or is there another independent source/version, and if so, why should it be used instead?

Thanks in advance… :bow:

I registered relatively recently, but here are a few comments about some of your questions:

Firmware is the actual programming that is stored inside your drive. It tells the drive how to do particular tasks, how to burn a given type of media, and so on. If your firmware gets screwed, you can toss the drive.

A flasher is a program that updates firmware.

If you have no need to update the firmware of your drive and do not want to learn about how to do it and the differences between different firmware revisions, you’d be best sticking with the stock firmware that came with your drive. Updating firmware should be as easy as following directions that should be in the zip file that came with the firmware, but there’s always the chance you’ll kill your drive if something goes wrong. If you use a ‘modified’ firmware, you void your warranty. (Though with the cost of shipping and the cost of a new drive, I look at it as not having a warranty anyways - costs as much or more to ship back than a new drive costs.) If you start having trouble in the future, you can then look at updating your drive’s firmware as an attempt to fix whatever problem you’re having.

The graphic you describe is the icon for the file that is embedded in the executable. It has no purpose other than to look pretty.

Thanks for your comments and general info.

My problem is that there are different sources of software to update the DH20A4P from 9P57 (out of the box) to 9P59, as explained in my original post. There are no instructions for it anywhere. The LiteOn website has links to instructions, but they don’t work (won’t connect). There are no instructions in that .zip file after unzipping, just the .exe file. So do I just run the 9P59.exe file that I downloaded from the LiteOn website and hope for the best? Or do I use another source and software? Does it include the flasher, or not? I’m confused because basic explanatory info is totally lacking!

[QUOTE=JohnnyBob1;2014644]Thanks for your comments and general info.

My problem is that there are different sources of software to update the DH20A4P from 9P57 (out of the box) to 9P59, as explained in my original post. There are no instructions for it anywhere. The LiteOn website has links to instructions, but they don’t work (won’t connect). There are no instructions in that .zip file after unzipping, just the .exe file. So do I just run the 9P59.exe file that I downloaded from the LiteOn website and hope for the best? Or do I use another source and software? Does it include the flasher, or not? I’m confused because basic explanatory info is totally lacking![/QUOTE]

It’s easy to update the firmware, I don’t think it’s so confusing as you said. Just keep it simple, download the 9P59.exe from Lite-On website, run it, click Update. Wait for it to finish, reboot computer. All done.

Just make sure you didn’t put a disc in the drive before updating the firmware.

Go with Skylon’s suggestion (www.liteonit.com). Anything else you’ve found is non-official firmware and voids your warranty. If you don’t know what it’s for than there’s no reason to use it.

And if you’re curious and don’t care about warranty, everything you need to know is explained on www.codeguys.rpc1.org, with cross-references to the LiteOn burner forum here. Read, do and learn from your own experiences and mistakes. It’s the only way. :slight_smile:

  • firmware is the coded instructions that are stored in the burner’s eeprom chip.
  • flasher is a program which can write the firmware to the eeprom.
  • the UpFW file you downloaded from liteon is firmware and flasher in one and can be referred to as either firmware or flasher (which is what confused you).
  • if firmware and flasher are separate files (usually a .bin and an .exe file), they must be used together in order to perform the flash.

Thanks to both for your info. I feel confident enough now to try it with the 9P59.exe downloaded from the LiteOn website. Presumably no special instructions are required. I know that it’s a good idea to make the flashed drive the Master, and to disconnect other drives. Also go offline and disable all software and processes that might interfere, including antivirus and firewall. Then pray that it will actually work right… :bow:

The firmware update with 9P59.exe from the Lite-On website went OK. I’ve burnt a few DVDs since then, and it’s working the same as before the flash. At least, I don’t notice any difference.

I continue to get an occasional (maybe 1 in 10) DVD that won’t ID (its presence is not recognized when inserted into the DH20A4P drive) after a burn with this DH20A4P, even though it burnt & verified OK with ImgBurn, and plays OK in my standalone and computer drives. These discs ID OK in my other drive, a LG H55N. The last instance was a Playo MCC004 disc. Prior instances were with MKM001 and MKM003 discs, both made in Singapore. I know that Playo is 2nd Class but I’ve had good luck with my batch on hand, and the others were 1st Class media. It mystifies me why this happens, at all. Surely if a disc IDs OK before burning, it should ID OK in the same drive afterwards. Right? What could cause such erratic behavior? Bad drive? Bad software? (but ImgBurn is supposed to be the best, right?)

Here in the States you’ll find Verbatim’s on sale at Best Buy,Office Max , or Office Depot. With the “Sale Price” of 12-15 bucks for a spindle of 50, you can take the guess work out. To make it even easier a long time member “Ripit” takes the time to scan and post the weekly ad’s over in the “Bargin Basment” section of the forum. I haven’t found a Lite-on drive that didn’t love these blanks. The sale price is a bonus !
Best Wishes