Making The Transition To Better Quality

vbimport

#1

I started backing up my DVD’s about a year ago to take with me to college so my actual DVD’s stay nice and safe at home. I never cared too much about perfect quality before, so I always compressed the DVD’s to about 50-60% and removed options like 5.1 audio. Well I received a decent television for my dorm and surround sound speakers for Christmas, and I’d like to indulge in higher quality discs without the risk of bringing my sizable collection to campus.

In the past I used DVD Shrink to copy and DVD Decrypter to burn, I bought whatever DVD+R happened to be on sale, and I stored everything in a couple cheap disc wallets. I made a mistake using a Targus disc wallet and it scratched my discs rather badly, not to mention shoved them all tightly together despite the case not even being full. I am currently using 2 Case Logic disc wallets which seem to be perfect, harder shell, no compression, and so far no scratching, I think it has a lot to do with it being able to open completely, unlike the previous.

Anyway, I don’t want to drag on terribly. My intent is to try and correct my improper ripping and burning methods, and attempt to increase the overall quality of my back ups.

I’ve got a couple of questions I hope some people here can help me with. I did in fact try to look around and read what I could to find my answers before I registered, but I didn’t seem to find what I was looking for, at least in an easily comprehendible way, perhaps I’m just too new to this to grasp everything yet.

**My 8 Questions: (I’m sure any knowledgeable member can answer these easily)

1. Is there any way to tell before purchase the quality of the discs I am going to buy? Is the “Media Code” on the exterior package of the DVDR spindles? I seem to see people discuss this while missing exactly how you can do this without putting the disc in a drive and performing a media test. And I find it difficult to imagine you all randomly buy discs and find out only later their quality. (Example: “Get the Verbatim 8x DL mid code MKM003, made in Singapore.”)

2. I have never burned a DVD-R before, my drive seems to burn DVD+R’s very well though, I’ve never had a problem burning one. And I’ve never had a problem playing one, this includes my only DVD player, my PS2 & my X-Box 360. I haven’t seen any true consensus on one format being better than the other, so if one is please inform me of which.

3. What are the ‘best’ single layer DVD-/+R’s currently available.

4. What are the ‘best’ dual layer DVD-/+R’s currently available.

5. What are the ‘best’ ways to store such discs? (I understand that most people feel that disc wallets are the worst thing you could store them in, and that actual DVD cases are the best. I just wondered what the options were in a most harmful to least harmful type of way.)

6. I understand that depending on your drive and the media used, lower burn speeds may result in better quality discs. Is this something worth delving further into?

7. Are there different programs to rip complete dual layer DVDs and burn them? I’ve heard “imgburn” is one of the more popular choices for burning dual layer discs. Should I switch to different software to better accommodate my wishes for superior quality?

8. Should I “test” each of my discs individually before burning?

**My computer specs:
-Dell Dimension XPS Gen 2
-Windows XP Home Edition
-Pentium 4 CPU 3.20GHz
-1022MB RAM

**My disc drive: LITE-ON DVDRW SHW-160P6S

I’m headed to Best Buy tomorrow with several coupons I received in the mail, hopefully by then I’ll know what type of discs I’m looking for exactly.

Thank you very much to anyone who took the time to read my rambling words.


#2
  1. Is there any way to tell before purchase the quality of the discs I am going to buy? Is the “Media Code” on the exterior package of the DVDR spindles? I seem to see people discuss this while missing exactly how you can do this without putting the disc in a drive and performing a media test. And I find it difficult to imagine you all randomly buy discs and find out only later their quality. (Example: “Get the Verbatim 8x DL mid code MKM003, made in Singapore.”)

It will say made in Singapore on the spindle. You won’t see the MID until you put it in your drive, sneaky EH? Verbatim 2.4X DL MIS, will be MKM 001, but so will the made in India ones.

  1. I have never burned a DVD-R before, my drive seems to burn DVD+R’s very well though, I’ve never had a problem burning one. And I’ve never had a problem playing one, this includes my only DVD player, my PS2 & my X-Box 360. I haven’t seen any true consensus on one format being better than the other, so if one is please inform me of which.

If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Are they being booktyped to Dvd-Rom?

  1. What are the ‘best’ [B]single layer[/B] DVD-/+R’s currently available.

Recommended would be Verbatim, TY (Taiyo yuden) or if you can find them Sony 8X, made in Japan.

4.What are the ‘best’ [B]dual layer[/B] DVD-/+R’s currently available.

Recommended, Verbatim Dvd+R DL, made in Singapore.

  1. What are the ‘best’ ways to store such discs? (I understand that most people feel that disc wallets are the worst thing you could store them in, and that actual DVD cases are the best. I just wondered what the options were in a most harmful to least harmful type of way.)

Personal opinion, Dvd cases.

  1. I understand that depending on your drive and the media used, lower burn speeds may result in better quality discs. Is this something worth delving further into?

General rule of thumb is, half the maximum rated speed of the disc, but you can always test for yourself.

  1. Are there different programs to rip complete dual layer DVDs and burn them? I’ve heard “imgburn” is one of the more popular choices for burning dual layer discs. Should I switch to different software to better accommodate my wishes for superior quality?

http://club.cdfreaks.com/f34/reading-dual-layer-dvds-235705/ Post #18 I believe.

  1. Should I “test” [B]each[/B] of my discs individually before burning?

I never do.


#3


Anyway, I don’t want to drag on terribly. My intent is to try and correct my improper ripping and burning methods, and attempt to increase the overall quality of my back ups.

When using shrink, you can just copy the main movie only without menus and extras. This is what I do to increase quality since I really don’t care much about extras on most movies. Another may be to simply increase compression to the max for the extras and have less compression for the actual movie. Up to you really.

[B][B]1.[/B] Is there any way to tell before purchase the quality of the discs I am going to buy? Is the “Media Code” on the exterior package of the DVDR spindles? I seem to see people discuss this while missing exactly how you can do this without putting the disc in a drive and performing a media test. And I find it difficult to imagine you all randomly buy discs and find out only later their quality. (Example: “Get the Verbatim 8x DL mid code MKM003, made in Singapore.”)[/B]

No but with trust worthy media like Taiyo Yuden and Verbatim then will almost always be the real deal. You just have to look at where it’s made. Made in Japan, Taiwan etc.

[B][B]2.[/B] I have never burned a DVD-R before, my drive seems to burn DVD+R’s very well though, I’ve never had a problem burning one. And I’ve never had a problem playing one, this includes my only DVD player, my PS2 & my X-Box 360. I haven’t seen any true consensus on one format being better than the other, so if one is please inform me of which.[/B]

Well, DVD+R and -R have never made much difference for me. I’ve only used what I think is the best quality media. You can set the book type of +R which means it will fool shitty players that normally won’t play burnt media into playing it. I doubt this affects many people though and I know for a fact that PS2 and many DVD players have no problems with -R. It’s up to you but I’d get the best quality media @ the best price and not worry about + or - R.

[B]
[B]3.[/B] What are the ‘best’ [B]single layer[/B] DVD-/+R’s currently available.[/B]

IMO - Verbatim DVD-R 8x (MCC02RG20) or Taiyo Yuden DVD+R 8x (YUDENT0002).

[B][B]4.[/B] What are the ‘best’ [B]dual layer[/B] DVD-/+R’s currently available.[/B]

Only Verbatim +R DL.

[B][B]5.[/B] What are the ‘best’ ways to store such discs? (I understand that most people feel that disc wallets are the worst thing you could store them in, and that actual DVD cases are the best. I just wondered what the options were in a most harmful to least harmful type of way.)[/B]

Best to worst - (IMO)

cd/dvd cases
storage boxes (sleeves inside, DVDs sit vertically instead of flat)
spindles
wallets stored so discs are vertical
wallets stores so discs are horizontal (flat against each other)

[B][B]6.[/B] I understand that depending on your drive and the media used, lower burn speeds may result in better quality discs. Is this something worth delving further into?[/B]

As has been said, mid speeds are good. For example I find that 8x media can burn very well @ 4x,6 and even 8x but 16x is best done @ 6x or 8x for most. Sometimes 12x or 16x can be used with good results but only on perfect spindles of media, which is rare to find.

[B]]7.[/B] Are there different programs to rip complete dual layer DVDs and burn them? I’ve heard “imgburn” is one of the more popular choices for burning dual layer discs. Should I switch to different software to better accommodate my wishes for superior quality?[/B]

imgburn is basically an updated DVD decrypter. Made by the same people as well I think.

[B][B]8.[/B] Should I “test” [B]each[/B] of my discs individually before burning?[/B]

As in doing a test write? No way, it never achieves anything and won’t mean a real burn won’t fail or burn crappy @ that speed.

[B][B]**My disc drive:[/B] LITE-ON DVDRW SHW-160P6S[/B]

You can use that to scan burns in CDspeed if you like. Gives a general idea of how it was burned error wise. Warning though, do not take results too seriously.

[B]I’m headed to Best Buy tomorrow with several coupons I received in the mail, hopefully by then I’ll know what type of discs I’m looking for exactly.

Thank you very much to anyone who took the time to read my rambling words.
[/B]

See what they have, snap up any 8x Verbatim, whether it be - or +R because they’re great. And as the poster above me said, anything made by Sony that is Made in Japan will be Taiyo Yuden, so get that if it’s there.


#4
  1. i have never seen the MID printed on packaging. most of us here know the MID of what we are buying before hand solely through information gathered by fellow members (after purchasing) that has been posted here and on other sites.

  2. +R is better for numerous reasons, book typing to -ROM (higher player compatibility), and the actual burn quality being better are two of the main reasons. there has been several guides written on the subject here (iirc) and on other sites.

  3. this is subjective, and opinions from the same person even will vary depending on the drive / firmware used. rule of thumb, stick with Taiyo Yuden, MCC Verbatim, and Sony. while this guide is out of date, and there are some notable medias that have changed classes even, it is a good general starting point.

  4. Made in Singapore MKM003 Verbatim. there is no other DL media out there worth using in my, and most others opinion. MKM001 is now made in India (BAD! STAY FAR AWAY!)

  5. this is a question i ask my self a lot. the quality of sleeves and wallets seems to vary greatly. i personally prefer old cake boxes; space effective, and i’ve never scratched a disc this way. downside, you have to sort disc by disc to find what you are looking for, and may risk fingerprints if you aren’t careful. i’m sure others will chime in with their opinions on this subject.

  6. lower is not always better, and maximum is generally not either. it really does depend on the quality of the media and the drive.

  7. DVD Shrink & DVD Decrypter are no longer developed, out of date, and will not rip most protected movies released in the past several years. use DVDFab HD Decrypter for ripping and ImgBurn for burning.

  8. what do you mean by “test” before burning? as far as i am aware, there is no way to determine the quality of a disc before burning with most hardware. i read once that it is possible with some hardware though, and its not exactly accurate. i verify w/ ImgBurn and quality scan most of my discs with Nero CD-DVD Speed @ 4x after burning to ensure i got a good burn that is worth archiving.

additional notes:

compression is not always a bad thing. in fact, if the bitrate of the original movie you are compressing is good, and you use deep analysis & maximum sharpness AEC in DVD Shrink, you can compress the majority of movies slightly down below 65% (35% compression) with 0 visible compression artifacts.


#5
  1. MKM001 is still MII and MIS. MKM003 is MIS.
    For either -R DL or +R DL, Verbatim is the choice.

#6

Going to answer your question between work :o in multiple posts. Let’s see how far I can come with the first post. :rolleyes:

[QUOTE=Dementia1;2000385]
[B]**My 8 Questions:[/B] (I’m sure any knowledgeable member can answer these easily)

[B]1.[/B] Is there any way to tell before purchase the quality of the discs I am going to buy? Is the “Media Code” on the exterior package of the DVDR spindles? I seem to see people discuss this while missing exactly how you can do this without putting the disc in a drive and performing a media test. And I find it difficult to imagine you all randomly buy discs and find out only later their quality. (Example: “Get the Verbatim 8x DL mid code MKM003, made in Singapore.”)[/quote]
No, you can not know the quality. A bad batch is allways possible. The exterior packages won’t give you the media code and even then does that make MEdia with borrowed codes suddenly superior ??

[B]2.[/B] I have never burned a DVD-R before, my drive seems to burn DVD+R’s very well though, I’ve never had a problem burning one. And I’ve never had a problem playing one, this includes my only DVD player, my PS2 & my X-Box 360. I haven’t seen any true consensus on one format being better than the other, so if one is please inform me of which.

-R is slightly more compatible on older players. But with todays players there is no reason to choose any over the other.

[B]3.[/B] What are the ‘best’ [B]single layer[/B] DVD-/+R’s currently available.

Tricky question what should I read for ‘Best’- Best quality and screw the price and the hard work to get hem or Best disc taking pricing and easy availability in to account.

Personall favourites If money and rarity do not matter -> Maxell Protek, Emtec GOLD (MPO made), Maxell BQ.
Personall recommended media taking reasonable conditions into account ->Verbatim 16x DVD+R (Not made in Japan)

[B]4.[/B] What are the ‘best’ [B]dual layer[/B] DVD-/+R’s currently available.

Easy verbatim made in singapore DVD+R’s 8x or 2.4x does not matter except for burnspeed. (For japanese market that would be Mitsubishi.)

[B]5.[/B] What are the ‘best’ ways to store such discs? (I understand that most people feel that disc wallets are the worst thing you could store them in, and that actual DVD cases are the best. I just wondered what the options were in a most harmful to least harmful type of way.)

Amaray cases. Because of stress on the disc and composition of the cases.

[B]6.[/B] I understand that depending on your drive and the media used, lower burn speeds may result in better quality discs. Is this something worth delving further into?

Hmm tricky. Lower speds can result in better disc’s but also in worse disc’s.
In most cases stick to 8x unless the media was rated lower by the brand from the start. IF that doesn’t work you could try 4x or 12x or use different media.

[B]7.[/B] Are there different programs to rip complete dual layer DVDs and burn them? I’ve heard “imgburn” is one of the more popular choices for burning dual layer discs. Should I switch to different software to better accommodate my wishes for superior quality?

Leaving it open for later.

[B]8.[/B] Should I “test” [B]each[/B] of my discs individually before burning?

What do you mean with test. If you mean visual inspectation and checking for bonding (squeeking hub ) then I say YES. If you mean a sort of pre burn or a profesional analyzer result on the blank disc then I say NO.


#7

Alright, so I can only attain the location it was manufactured in, I think I understand now.

I suppose I’ll just continue on with using DVD+R’s, since so far there really is no reason for me not to.

I have never ‘booktyped’ to DVD-ROM before, I suppose I should learn how to do that. I’ll look into it when I get back tonight.

So the recommended single layer discs are [B]Verbatim DVD-R 8x[/B], [B]Taiyo Yuden DVD+R 8x[/B] and [B]Sony 8X made in Japan[/B], got it. Though, if I understand correctly a [B]TY DVD+R 8x[/B] is the same as a [B]Sony 8x made in Japan[/B]. Yes or no?

And is there a reason why I would want to get Verbatim 16x DVD+R [B]not[/B] made in Japan? Is it because they are inferior, or because you were taking more reasonable conditions into account?

It seems somewhat unanimous that I look for only [B]Verbatim DVD+R DL made in Singapore[/B] as my dual layer choice.

At this point, I’m having real trouble trying to figure out exactly what to do about storage. Looks like I’ve pretty much done the worst thing you can do, using disc wallets kept horizontal. I’m not sure I have the space to accomodate a large amount of individual DVD cases. But if they really are [B]that[/B] much better then I suppose I’ll have to try and find a way to make it work. For the moment my Case Logics will have to do. Also, are cake boxes the same as spindles?

I supppose I will try burning my discs at about half of their max speed from here on out, hopefully with good results.

As for software, I suppose I’ll try DVD Decrypter & ImgBurn, and if Decrypter gives me any trouble I’ll switch to DVDFab HD Decrypter. I’ll look more closely at the post you referenced beef barley when it finally comes time for me to burn my first DL disc.

And I won’t be testing each disc individually, that will save me a lot of time!

Anyway, this post is all over the place. I’m leaving soon to go to Best Buy, I’ll see if they have any Verbatim DVD+R DL’s made in Singapore, I hope they do as I’m anxious to try out burning my first DL disc.

Big thanks to beef barley, cd pirate, xdjoynerx, chef, & dakhaas! You have all been [B]exceedingly[/B] helpful!


#8

Verbatim 16X will be made in Taiwan (MCC 004), & from my own personal testing, old stock looks to be more consistant than the new fancy packaged stuff. That post wiill also give you a good idea for single layer as well.


#9

To answer a few questions in your last post:

Not all Sony 8x +R were TY. There were some sold with the mid code SONY D11. And it may not be possible to find Sony 8x +R disks very easily now anyway. The last few I’ve seen were old stock at Sears. If you want 8x +R Taiyo Yuden, it is easiest to buy them from online sites like rima.com or supermediastore.com if you are in the US.

In general, you WANT Verbatim 16x +R disks made in Taiwan. There have been a lot of reports of poor quality TY 16x sold under the Verbatim brand, and those are made in Japan.

Cake boxes and spindles are terms that are used interchangeably around here.

And now for something not covered so far. If you want the highest quality backups, you should use an encoder, not a transcoder like DVDShrink for reducing the size of your dvds to fit onto a single layer dvdr. This is particularly true for large dvds that need a lot of compression. I suggest getting the free version of DVDRebuilder and use the HC encoder that is included with it.

The major drawback for using an encoder is that it will take longer. Also, I don’t believe the free version of Rebuilder allows you to select movie only as an option. The way around that is to rip to the hard drive using DVDFab HD Decrypter and select movie only at that point. Then use Rebuilder to reduce the size of the movie.


#10

Thanks for the clarification. My shopping trip was ill fated however, Best Buy was charging $44.99 for a 20-pack of Verbatim DVD+R DL, and even though they were made in Singapore I couldn’t bring myself to spend that much. So I suppose it will be a while longer yet until I burn my first DL disc, but when I do I assure you I’ll be referencing this thread and the very helpful posts it contains.


#11

[QUOTE=Dementia1;2001666]Thanks for the clarification. My shopping trip was ill fated however, Best Buy was charging $44.99 for a 20-pack of Verbatim DVD+R DL, and even though they were made in Singapore I couldn’t bring myself to spend that much. So I suppose it will be a while longer yet until I burn my first DL disc, but when I do I assure you I’ll be referencing this thread and the very helpful posts it contains.[/QUOTE]

They’re charging an absolute minimum of $55 per 20 and most of the time $65 per 20 DL verbatims here in Australia. They have not gone down in price much at all and don’t seem like they will for a while. The best price I can imagine DL eventually becoming is probably $1-1.50 per disc.


#12

The best deal I have ever found here was $19.99 for a 20 pack spindle of Verbatim 2.4X, made in Singapore, (old stock). Just bought a 20 pack spindle at Future shop of Verbatim 2.4X, made in India, (new stock, didn’t see any MIS) for $24.99. Regular price, they want close to $60-$70. Just keep watching for a sale I guess.