M DIsc Burner. What one to buy?


#1

Hi Guys, I’m thinking about buying an M Disc Burner for backing up Data. Ive hade a catastrophic loss with NAS and am ditching that and going to store my data in future on the M-Disc. I need a burner thogh and would like clarification on the best one too get. My own research suggests there are few manufactures that support this technology yet but LG seem to be the best as far as i can tell. I would be interested in hearing your thoughts and insights and always value your expertise. Thanks you.


#2

Agree that LG has the longest experience with firmware coding that gets optimal burns on M-Disc, especially the DVD format.


#3

Thanks for your input. Was wondering which LG drive sup[ports Blue Ray 25Gb Disks. I found this item on amazon https://smile.amazon.co.uk/LG-Electronics-Writer-GH24NSD1-Support/dp/B01B23WDRQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538767712&sr=8-2&keywords=m+disk+writer but i think it only writes DVD’s at 4.7 Gb Which is fine for books, pdfs and documents that i wish to back up . Even photos at a push but not videos as this would be prohibitively expensive.


#4

I don’t you live by one they do shipping. I have bought a lot of things there and if there a problem there returns are very easy.

http://www.microcenter.com/product/408815/internal-16x-super-multi-blu-ray-writer


#5

Instore Pickup Only ! :frowning:

Also looking for a bit more info on whay what drive is beter than all the other drives. Im newbie !

:confused:


#6

Still looking for the best M Disc Burner, its model number and why its the best !!! Anyone going to answer ?


#7

I think there is no just one. There are good models from Pioneer and LG (and maybe from IOData), but It is hard to say which is the best. You should think about the exact media type you’re going to burn and check the error scans, which looks best for you.


#8

What is an error scan ?


#9

As you may know, optical discs are fragile and may become scratched. To keep the data readable, each data sector written on an optical media is appended with a small set of the recovery data (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CD-ROM#CD-ROM_format, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DVD#Capacity and http://sutlib2.sut.ac.th/sut_contents/h95009/data/5643_58.pdf for more info)

Thus, ideally, the newly burnt disc should be read without using any of the error correction, however, due to laser/dye miscalibration or some other physical problem, this is not always true. So some of the drives can do a raw read of the disc sector, including the ECC/EDC codes and calculate if it has not been read correctly or not. (See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Block_Error_Rate and Interpreting PI/PO error scans)

Some drives can also do the TE and FE errors testing on a blank media - see https://club.myce.com/t/tracking-error-te-and-focus-error-fe-testing/ for more info.

Hope this answers your question.


#10

There’s another issue that the OP should be aware of.

There is a fundamental difference between the organic dye layer in an traditional recordable DVD and the inorganic substrate of an M-Disc DVD+R.

In the case of an M-Disc BD-R and a traditional (HTL format) BD-R, there seem to be few differences as they both use an inorganic or composite data layer.

In view of this, some have questioned how much advantage, if any, an M-Disc BD-R has over a properly manufactured, quality BD-R in terms of longevity.


#11

OK then that begs the question why bother with M-Disc ? If im just as good with HTL Format BD-R what brand would you recommend ? I can just buy a Blue Ray Burner and some media for much less than M Disc i guess ?


#12

If you read my post again, I didn’t actually say they are “just as good”; just that some have questioned whether the difference between BD-R’s is as great as with DVD. I’m sure the M-Disc BD-R’s are quality products in comparison to the rapidly declining quality and availability of mass-market BD-R blanks. For instance, it is well known that first-generation Ritek BD-R discs start showing read errors after ~3 years.

To shop for current quality BD-R offerings, you might want to look at the threads in the media test section of this forum:

https://club.myce.com/c/blank-media/blank-blu-ray-media-tests


#13

Im just looking for simple advice on what drive and what disks to buy. I have no time to research read errors on disk media. It should just work out of the box. Can anyone just recommend me the most reliable disk and drive to get that isnt tooo expensive. Thanks


#14

If the data are critical enough to justify the added cost of M-Disc BD-R, you should do well with any recent LG Blu-Ray burner and the Verbatim M-Disc blanks. These are available mail order on Amazon or electronics retailers like NewEgg.

If you want to save money and use regular 25GB BD-R blanks - Sony Japan, Verbatim, TDK, Panasonic are usually good bets.


#15

Simple answer would be:

  1. Buy the Pioneer BDR-209EBK/UBK/2209 or Pioneer BDR-211 or some of the latest LG drives. They are all excellent drives.

  2. Stay away from dual/triple layer media. Stay away from Ritek BD media (hidden under brands like RiData, Sony made in Taiwan, TDK, Maxell…). Don’t burn the disk to the full capacity, leave at least 1-2GB free - the data written on the edge usually fails first. Don’t store BD-R media in DVD/CD sleeves/wallets or pouches - the BD recording surface doesn’t want to be touched/pressed for any prolonged time.Use only plastic CD/DVD cases.

  3. Use only Panasonic BD-R SL media that is made in Japan or if it is absolutely necessary use Verbatim M-Disk. Personally I would use the Panasonic media because it has proven track record for reliability. Panasonic media is easily available on ebay from sellers located in Japan.

  4. Have another backup on totally different media.

  5. When you have free time learn about the scanning of optical media. Unlike HDD/SSD/Flash you can accurately predict if the media is about to fail usually months or sometimes year before it happens. That is the biggest advantage over the other types of storage. If you use optical media “blindly” in the end you will have the same catastrophic failure as you had with your NAS storage.