LiteON SOHW-1213S doesn't burn DVD

vbimport

#1

Hi everybody, I’m writing from Italy so please sorry for my english.

I purchased a LiteON SOHW-1213S few days ago and I’m not able to use it.

My system is an AMD Athlon XP1600+ with 512 MB of RAM DDR. The motherboard is an Asus A7A266 with chipset ALi, the BIOS is updated at version 1012 (date 2003/05/05) and I installed the drivers of the chipset (ALi Integrated Driver v.2.05).

On the first channel IDE I have the system hard disk (master) and a secondary hard disk (slave).

On the second channel IDE I have as master the DVD-Writer in object and a Waitec Storm 32 as slave.

The data that I try to write reside on a Maxtor 6Y200M0 (200 GBs SATA) climbed on a RocketRAID 1520.

The system is Windows XP SP2 but I has also tried with Windows 2000 and Windows XP SP1 without any difference, rather, the best results have been those of Windows XP SP2.

I tried with many burning softwares. To bring an example I illustrate you what happens with Nero Burning ROM 6.3.1.20.

The burn-process correctly starts, the simulation finishes with positive result and start the writing process. At this point, despite the read buffer is constant on 99-100%, the write buffer goes up and down, also with all the processes killed from the Task Manager.

The verification of the data with Nero fails, the final DVD is legible only partly.

I tried many supports, Network, Memorex, TX and finally Verbatim, all DVD-R and all 4X.

Nero doesn’t allow me to burn at 2X but only at 4X.

This is the result of the test with KProbe on the DVD-R after the burn process.

The burn process with CD-R works fine.

Please help me :confused:


#2

Welcome :slight_smile:

You should use KProbe with a scan speed of 4x (not max). :wink:

Try that and show the scan again, but I think you might have a faulty drive. :sad:

BTW: To save and attach a KProbe scan:
After the scan is complete, click the small diskette button on the toolbar and at the save as dialog select a file type of .PNG. Attach the saved file to your post by using the “Manage Attachments” button in the “Go Advanced” post mode.


#3

Make sure that you have DMA activated for your drives.

G


#4

i would suggest sticking to 1 brand and do at least 3 burns on the wite strat of your choice…i tried imation 4x dvd+r…the first disk was unreadable. the second looked much the same as yours with the mountain at the end then the third and every other burn so far has pi of around 7 max averaging 2 and po of 2 max averaging 0.2.
so pick a firmware and write strat and stick with it for at least 3 burns that way you will get a true burn…this is to do with the 4 disk memorey buffer…i am trying to find out more about it but as this a new discovery there isnt a lot of info about…
be patient thats all i can say. it worked for me


#5

Tested now on an Athlon XP 2400+ with 256 MB RAM : works !

:a :a :a

Also in that system it’s master on the secondary IDE channel. The hard disk is 2-3 years older than mine.

Both are in Ultra DMA mode.

Probably it’s like the_hetster described. I hope this. Now I try with more DVD and then I’ll remount it on my system.

Pray for me :bow:


#6

I dont know about the older drives. But the newer drives seem to have a block of memory in the EEPROM to store the data used to burn the last 4 burns. The drive seems to use this data for future burns and I have verified that it does so. You can erase the area and the burns will not be good in many cases. You can replace the data there with one which worked before and it will burn the disk the same way again. So IF you can not get decent burns any longer, by replacing this data you can get better burns.

Now this data is entirely different than the drive calibration data pre-stored from the factory, Which once you loose it, Your drive is toast as it can not be recreated by the user. Different than re-calibrated data for both read and write the drive figures out once in a while, This data is flexible in that, you can destroy it and it is possible for the drive to recreate this data again, As long as you are willing to waste a lot of disks.

As you can see from the pic, The drive already comes with some the debug data from the factory itself, so they had already pre-tested the drive with certain media types to see if it burnt any disks. And after a few burns you can see the new data which is entirely different as the disks used were different and the environment is different. But generally even though you can burn the same data, on the same media on the same drive, the data will not be identical since each disk is slightly different and the environment would also change IE temperate, disk wobble, drive voltage etc.

The media itself provides the data needed to burn it, Like the OPC suggested code, The Wavelength suggested code and the write strategy code. The drive uses this values to figure out which of its own routines will work best to burn that media.

I have verified quite a bit of this, But since the drive is dynamic, It is very hard to say things in absolute terms. It changes and you do not know why. But generally this is how it is.

Dynamic Optimum Power Control is a feature that can be an advantage if it is used only to compensate for media problems. For example if you have dust or fingerprints on a CD, it will record using a stronger laser, and there will be no problem reading the CD. This is especially important since liteon has quality control where they attach their packagers thumb print to the media so you can use it to trace it back, or to fake crimes.

http://www.cdfreaks.com/article/44/5



#7

As you can see from locations 00080, 00090, 000A0, 000B0, after quick formatting a -RW 4 times that the entire data was replaced by new data. Which would mean that the drive only keeps track of the last 4 burns and if you change media, The data that the drive learnt for other media is presumly lost.
The values @ 00083 and 00084 do change in a way that indicates that the values were not replaced but a relative value based on a calculation was stored, maybe using data that was learnt from earlier burns. The rest of values that are close to enough to each other, imply that they were used by the current burn only and are rather useless. Or that is the way I would have done it :slight_smile:

Given time and money it can be easily verified. IE making lots of coasters :slight_smile:



#8

Mr.Pickle - Given time and money it can be easily verified. IE making lots of coasters.
lol nothing new then…i am getting so fed up of - coasters that i am finaly giving up on the drive…i have tried all different firmwares and write strats. everytime i change strats the first 2 disks are usualy for the bin…given the last 4 disks buffer i give it 4 burns before i see if the write strat is any good…i have in 4 days of owning the drive wasted approx 65 discs lol…the price of these is approx the same as a new nec 2500a…so i am just going to buy one and use the liteon for reading…
thanks to codeking for all his efforts but i dont think i’ll bother mesing anymore lol.
just a thought if liteon drives are better with + disks (this i know as i get decent burns from +) and 90% of + burns are decent burns then why dont liteon and all other firmware developers try improving the - burns as i have tried 9 different brands of - ranging from cheap to very expensive and so far havent found a single brand that is even acceptable never mind decent burns…the lowest pi on - i have ever had in 65 disks is over 100…i have gone from being a dedicated liteon fan to cursing the day i thought liteon would be a good burner lol…sorry for the rant but i am geting sick of throwing - disks in the bin…


#9

There are bugs in the code. Only a few media actually work. Since I can only get -R media, I have to have it working. Not that it makes any difference, the ricoh and yudens give crappy burns and they are very very expensive and very hard to find. I did find one place 8 hours drive form here selling sony +R’s, maybe its ricoh… But its a 100 pack and they want $200 US for it which is more than what most people make in a month here. Still half the regular price but since I already tired 5 tdk’s and sony’s I dont want to shell out that kind of money and find they are useless.

I have got good -R burns now, But yea it cost a lot of time and money. So it does work. But its not like CDR burns. No stick and burn, More like hit it with a stick and burn. One of the first things to do is, compare the firmwares and fidn new media codes. usually, they add new media codes and new write strats with it. The old ones are just dummy enteries. They do not work so sswapping it with one that does not work anyway well will give you a disk that does not work. Also start it off @ 2x then go from there. Once the drive learns hwo to burn, you can also get 6-8 burns with the same disks. But getting there is a minefield.


#10

this is precicely what i mean lol…i mean imagine my delight at buying an 8x dual layer only to find i have to burn at 2x to find decent burns lol…also all the other suggestions i have tried…i allways go from latest firmware backwards…i have managed to get to first version formware 3 times lol…i have tried every single recommended strat swaps from the strat swap thread…i have even decided to go down the list with ritek g04’s and still cant get a decent burn…first half fine scond half wont even read in nero cd/dvd speed test… i have given up on 8x burns and would be happy with a decent 4x burn…i have ordered my nec 2510a just now for the same price as 100 dvd’s here in UK…i also have trouble getting + brand disks where i live. the shop i got to has a range of about 35 different - disks and 1 + (infinity brand).luckily for me this brand works fine. unluckily the disks wont play in my xbox even set as -rom. they jerk then fail…such a shame as liteon was my fav brand. many an hour i used to gloat at friends who bought plextors and my liteon could beat it hands down…these days the liteon dvd brand will die a sudden death if ppl start to read reviews before they actualy think ahh liteon they are good lol…
anyway if you have any tips on ritek g04 (i have 3 different brands and about 30 disks left). iahve tried stock g04. g04@g05. g04@g06. g04@mlx g01. g04@mlx g02 and finaly g04@mlx g03…every single one of these burns from 1 through 4 as i allways do 4 per strat have been unreadable in nero cd/dvd speed and the kprobe results show why…the ramp in the last quater of disk goes from perfect under 10 pi and under 1 pio to around 1000 pi and over 100 pio…
help me to help others lol…i paid for the disks now so dont mind wasting them


#11

Use the new sony VY06 firmware and try the strats that work like MCC03, MBI 03RG30, MCC 02RG20, GSC003, MXL RG03, Ritek G06 (you tried it allready? It supposedly works)… TYG02, Princo08x01 all @ 4x…

These strats are known to be working. maybe the CMC MAG. AF1

You dont need to burn 4 disks, 1 is enough. If the burn is bad enough the next one wont improve it a whole lot. A better burn gets better and a worse worse…

It could also be you need to use a RW disk to erase the debug buffer first… Just quick format erase the disk 4 times and it gets rid of the garbage. Can you get good burns with RW disk? I get the best burns with -RW. Luckly I was able to find JVC/maxwell and TDK -RW ones to test.


#12

ive been so obsessed trying to get a decent 832 firware i nearly forgot my drive is a flashed sony lol…think the best way is to try the sony out lol…i dont have a rw as i spent all my cash on different brands of - disks lol…is there any other trick for flushing the 4 disk buffer?
out of all those strats which would you recommend as the best overall?

edit
rofl just flashed to sony firmware and now the drive wont register dvd’s and just flashes lol…ahh well

edit again lol
scratch that had to flash twice…ok here goes


#13

No idea which strat will work good for you, it depends on the media.

To erase the buffer use multi-session mode, write like 200 meg files 10 times. Actually this also works to test out the media since you can scan it and see if a particular strat is any good before using a full disk to test. Just write it @ 2x so the disk dont quit before you are done. 2X is a lot more forgiving :slight_smile: If the scan is horrible you know that one wont work anyway. This way you can try out all of them on the same 1 disk :slight_smile:


#14

Thank you Mr.Pickle… you was only wrong on 1 part

You dont need to burn 4 disks, 1 is enough. If the burn is bad enough the next one wont improve it a whole lot.

i did as you suggested and gave the MBI 03RG30 strat a go…first disk was unreadable (didnt read the multi session till way after the tests lol). it had 40 read errors and a pi of over 1000.
gave it another go at 2x and got a half decent burn so i burnt another 2 at 2x then gave 4x a go…average pi of 11 max of 18. pio max 9 average 0.02 (the 9 was a single spike).
i have since written 4 more ritek g04’s with MBI 03RG30 strat and had perfect burns every time.
thanks a bunch Mr.Pickle


#15

Well some of us have money to burn and keep burning hurumph! :slight_smile: can you post the KP scans and CDspeed grapsh off all 4 burns? I would like to get a copy of it.

You should save a copy of your eeprom too, in case you need to go back.


#16

ok heres the results as requested…couldnt do disk 1 as i threw it in bin and is covered in beans and all sorts lol.
this is run 2 at 2x write strat as stated above

this is run 3 at 2x again







#17

1 other thing to mention is the results changed dramaticaly from the previous scan they appear to have got worse…wether that is becuase i put them in sleeves and got harline scratches i dunno.
anyway the results get better here on out
this is an average of my 4x burns even though this is the 4th burns table


i then tried an 8x and more data the results are still within limits


hope this helps with everyone else








#18

maybe you need some whine with that? errr wine even.

http://club.cdfreaks.com/showthread.php?t=107575

I use cotton to clean them and even those scratch the DVD’s. But Cd’s are more resilient. It still burns okay. I was able to find new sleeves that were made of like tissue paper instead of plastic. Kinda like diapers… Pampers it ain’t but I was worried that even with care the plastic would stick to the DVD’s if I leave them in there long enough and it wont ‘air’ out. I am not sure hwo long they will last outside though. But the cover itself is plastic so as long as I dont abuse the sleeves too much it should last and be easier on the surface than plain plastic.


#19

rofl allready read that
what are the burns like? are they comparable to yours?
the last 2 i tested in my standalone dvd player with no problems and recopied one and the second burn was better lol

anyway thanks again for your help i am a happy chappy i now have 2 decent dvd recorders


#20

I was not able to get reliable 8X burns with -R yet. I can get 6X but I usually run out of media before I finsh the tests. But 4x is okay and I use that usually since I want the media to be usable for a while yet and it only saves 2 mins for 6x and 5 mins for 8x. Since 8x still takes 10 mins and 4x 15 mins.

Actually you only did upto 3.5 gigs… It burns fine until around 4 gigs @ 8x but the rest is unredable. So most 4x media does burn @ 8x. The drive is not burning the last 500 megs or so properly. If it was +R you would do the force fall back option. With -R you use the bang your head on table option.