Liteon iHAS124, iHAS324 F (DH24AF)

vbimport

#141

I haven’t tried flashing the CL98 firmware to my iHAS124 F drive with a May 2015 manufacturing date. So I have no idea what happens if the CL98/CL99 firmware is flashed to an original CL05/CL06/CL07/CL08/CL09 model of iHAS124 F.

[QUOTE=SpotOn;2771458]In other words, can you just update your iHAS124 F drive manufactured in May with the CL98 firmware to fix the “getting lost” problem?
[/QUOTE]

The only iHAS124 F drive where I have tried both the CL08 and CL99 firmwares, is my ASUS DRW-24F1ST c drive with a September 2015 manufacturing date. Both the CL08 and CL99 firmwares seem to run on this drive. Though I have no idea which particular iHAS124 F firmware this ASUS drive is an exact rebadge of, but I suspect it might have been a CL98 drive or an earlier “prototype” (or “frankenstein”) version of the CL98.

Unfortunately just changing the firmware from CL08 to CL99 on this ASUS drive, didn’t really solve the “getting lost and not going to full speed” behavior.


#142

I should also mention that this “getting lost and not going to full speed” behavior also happens frequently on my LiteOn iHAS124 E series drives/rebadges. (I don’t know if you follow the ASUS subforum on here).

Either I’m very unlucky with LiteOn drives, or this “getting lost” behavior has been around for many years on LiteOn drives/rebadges.


#143

Overall for dvd ripping purposes, I’m pretty much writing off the earlier iHAS124 F series drives and rebadges manufactured before October 2015. They are very frustrating to use and are not much better than a riplocked drive. (I don’t know how good they are at writing, since I don’t burn any discs).

So at this point my iHAS124 F drive with a May 2015 manufacturing date and my ASUS DRW-24F1ST c drive with a September 2015 manufacturing date, are now my “sandbox” drives to play around with (ie. trying out newer firmware updates, etc …).

With all that being said, another way I found to minimize the “getting lost and not going to full speed” behavior of these earlier iHAS124 F drives/rebadges, is to wait 10-15 seconds after dvddecrypter first reads a disc, and then hit the button to start ripping. This doesn’t always work, but subjectively this seems to work more often than I’m willing to believe. (YMMV).


#144

The mystery deepens.

Crossflashed my ASUS DRW-24F1ST c drive (with September 2015 manufacturing date) from the CL99 firmware to the Plextore PX891SAF 1.00 firmware.

Initial observations suggests the “getting lost and not going to full speed” behavior might possibly be relieved. Need further research to know whether this is indeed the case. :confused:


#145

[QUOTE=jcroy;2771495]Unfortunately just changing the firmware from CL08 to CL99 on this ASUS drive, didn’t really solve the “getting lost and not going to full speed” behavior.[/QUOTE]

I should be more precise what I mean by the iHAS124 F drives/rebadges’ “getting lost and not going to full speed” behavior.

This “getting lost” behavior happens after the disc is already inserted into the drive, and after hitting the start button on DVD Decrypter to start ripping a movie dvd disc.

After hitting the start button on DVD decrypter, the iHAS124 F drive starts accelerating speeding up. If the drive ends up “getting lost”, the drive’s speed abruptly drops back down to a slower speed, before it ever reaches the maximum speed of the drive (12x or 16x).

The scenario of a dvd disc which doesn’t accelerate in speed after the start button is pushed on DVD Decrypter, is not considered “getting lost and not going to full speed” behavior.

For the record, I have observed this frustrating “getting lost” behavior on these iHAS124 F drives/rebadges with the following firmwares, on every second dvd disc I tried:

  • iHAS124 F with a May 2015 manufacturing date with firmwares CL06 and CL08

  • ASUS DRW-24F1ST c with a September 2015 manufacturing date with firmwares CL08, CL09, CL99, and the original DRW-24F1ST c 1.0 firmware

It appears LiteOn completely dropped the ball on these ^ drives/firmware combinations.

But fortunately, these following drive/firmware combinations seem to have a lot less “getting lost” problems:

  • iHAS124 F with a May 2015 manufacturing date with CL09 firmware

  • ASUS DRW-24F1ST c with a September 2015 manufacturing date with the (Plextor) PX891SAF 1.00 firmware

If I were to buy a new iHAS124 F drive for ripping a lot of movie dvd discs, I would buy one which is manufactured in October 2015 (or possibly after) with a default CL98 firmware (or possibly with subsequent CL9* updates). I would avoid any F series drives/rebadges manufactured in September 2015 or earlier, unless one is willing to try different firmwares/crossflashes.


#146

[QUOTE=jcroy;2771495]The only iHAS124 F drive where I have tried both the CL08 and CL99 firmwares, is my ASUS DRW-24F1ST c drive with a September 2015 manufacturing date. Both the CL08 and CL99 firmwares seem to run on this drive. [B]Though I have no idea which particular iHAS124 F firmware this ASUS drive is an exact rebadge of, but I suspect it might have been a CL98 drive or an earlier “prototype” (or “frankenstein”) version of the CL98.[/B]
[/QUOTE]

At this point I’m coming to the realization that this ASUS DRW-24F1ST c drive is most likely a “frankenstein” version of the iHAS124 F. Its behavior does not directly resemble my genuine iHAS124 F drives.

The original DRW-24F1ST c 1.0 firmware had the frustrating “getting lost and not going to full speed” behavior.

When I crossflash the DRW-24F1ST c drive to the iHAS124 F CL08 firmware and later updated it to CL09, the “getting lost” behavior was still there. In addition under the CL08 and CL09 firmwares, this DRW-24F1ST c drive was making some new “spark discharging sound” noises on every dvd disc that was inserted into it.

When I updated/crossflashed the CL99 firmware to this DRW-24F1ST c drive, the “spark discharging sound” was now gone. But the “getting lost and not going to full speed” behavior was still there.

(Around that time, I also purchased a genuine new iHAS124 F drive with an October 2015 manufacturing date with a default CL98 firmware. This October 2015 CL98 fw drive didn’t have the “getting lost” behavior at all). So most likely my DRW-24F1ST c drive is not a direct rebadge of a CL98/CL99 drive.

Yesterday I crossflashed the Plextor PX891SAF 1.00 firmware to my DRW-24F1ST c drive. Yesterday evening and earlier today, I ripped more than a dozen dvd discs on this DRW-24F1ST c drive with the PX891SAF 1.00 firmware, and noticed that the “getting lost and not going to full speed” behavior is almost gone. (These dozen or so dvd discs were ones which previously had “getting lost” problems on my DRW-24F1ST c drive using previous CL08/CL09/CL99 + default DRW-24F1ST c 1.0 firmwares).

Now the question is how does the ASUS DRW-24F1ST c drive (with a September 2015 manufacturing date) compare with a genuine Plextor PX891SAF drive ? (ie. Are they rebages of one another?)


#147

(More anecdotal observations).

Over the past few days, I crossflashed the Plextor PX891SAF 1.00 and 1.V6 firmwares onto my ASUS DRW-24F1ST c drive with a September 2015 manufacturing date. I noticed there were considerable differences between the two firmwares, in regard to how much excess heat was generated by the DRW-24F1ST c drive under the two different firmwares.

This evening, I decided to crossflash the IHAS124 F CL09 and CL99 firmwares to my same ASUS DRW-24F1ST c drive (with a September 2015 manufacturing date), to see whether there was something similar going on with excess heat generation.

In my current computer setup, the dvd drive is placed outside of the computer’s enclosure. (I’m using slightly longer sata cables). I keep a fan blowing directly on the dvd drive.

Initially I planned on ripping 10 dvd discs on the drive, one after another.

With the CL99 firmware, my DRW-24F1ST c drive was starting to feel very warm after 4 or 5 discs were ripped consecutively. When I put my hand on the top of the dvd drive, it felt warmer and warmer as more dvd discs were being ripped. When a dvd disc was finished being ripped, and I subsequently ejected the disc from the drive, the ejected dvd disc felt somewhat warm. (This is with the fan blowing directly on the dvd drive for the whole time).

So I stopped ripping after 7 discs.

Now I changed the firmware to CL09.

With the CL09 firmware, the DRW-24F1ST c drive felt cool/neutral to the touch after ripping more than 14 dvd discs. When a dvd disc was finished being ripped, and I subsequently ejected the disc from the drive, the ejected disc felt relatively cool/neutral to the touch.

Overall, the CL09 firmware ran a lot cooler on my DRW-24F1ST c drive, when it came to ripping a lot of movie dvd discs consecutively.


#148

Ok. This is very very strange.

Yesterday before I went to sleep, I was trying to figure out how to change the bios/cmos settings from sata to ide mode on my 2010 era computer, which is my primary dvd ripping machine. (This machine is offline and not connected to the internet).

I forgot to change the bios/cmos settings back to sata mode.

This morning I wanted to watch a particular dvd movie, while I was cooking and eating breakfast. So I powered up my ASUS DRW-24F1ST c drive crossflashed to the CL09 firmware (from yesterday).

Previously, this particular movie dvd disc was one which very frequently triggered the DRW-24F1ST c drive’s “getting lost and not going to full speed” behavior. This morning with the computer still in ide mode (and not sata), this particular movie dvd disc ripped without “getting lost” at all.

I was somewhat surprised at first. So instead of ripping and watching the movie, I gathered many other dvd discs which previously and frequently triggered the “getting lost and not going to full speed” behavior on my iHAS124 F CL0* drives/rebadges. (These discs stick out in my mind).

For some strange reason, all these discs went to full speed when I ran dvd decrypter. I didn’t believe it at first, so I ejected and inserted these same discs again several times to see whether they “got lost”. It turned out, only two of the discs triggered the “getting lost” behavior on the third or fourth tries of ejecting/inserting the disc again.

I’ll have to do more research later to see whether this is something real, or if it just another fluke.

(Speculation).

If this “getting lost and not going to full speed” behavior is almost absent in ide mode, then this “getting lost” behavior might possibly be due to some low-level incompatibilities between the 2010-era SATA onboard hardware, and the 2015/2016-era SATA dvd drive hardware/firmware on the iHAS124 F CL09 drive/rebadge.


#149

(Some more anecdotal stuff).

I wanted to see if there are any excess heat issues with my iHAS124 F drive with an October 2015 manufacturing date and [B]factory default CL98[/B] firmware. (I will not be upgrading the firmware to CL99 on this particular drive).

So I ripped over 10 dvd discs consecutively on this October2015 CL98 drive, with the same setup (ie. a fan blowing directly on the drive).

Ripping through 10+ discs, the top of drive felt relatively cool/neutral when I touched it. After a disc was finished ripping and I ejected the disc from the drive, every disc felt cool/neutral to the touch.

There doesn’t appear to be any obvious excess heat issues on this iHAS124 F drive with an October 2015 manufacturing date and factory default CL98 firmware.


#150

[QUOTE=jcroy;2772221]For some strange reason, all these discs went to full speed when I ran dvd decrypter. I didn’t believe it at first, so I ejected and inserted these same discs again several times to see whether they “got lost”. It turned out, only two of the discs triggered the “getting lost” behavior on the third or fourth tries of ejecting/inserting the disc again.

I’ll have to do more research later to see whether this is something real, or if it just another fluke.[/QUOTE]

Upon further examination, this “getting lost and not going to full speed” behavior is still present on my ASUS DRW-24F1ST c drive (with September 2015 manufacturing date) and also my iHAS124 F with a May 2015 manufacturing date. Both drives have the CL09 firmware.

(I ripped through a different set of dvd discs).


#151

(For completeness).

Checked to see whether there is any excess heat issues on my iHAS124 F with a May 2015 manufacturing date with the CL09 firmware.

Ripping through 10 dvd discs, the dvd drive felt cool/neutral to the touch when I put my hand on the top of the drive. Once a disc was finished being ripped and ejected, the ejected discs also felt cool/neutral to the touch.


#152

CMC Pro (Powered by TY) Valueline 8x DVD-R
White inkjet hub printable
TYG02 (Made in Taiwan)
iHAS324-F (CL19)
SB on, FHT/OS/OHT off
Burned at 6x


#153

[QUOTE=jadburner;2776855]CMC Pro (Powered by TY) Valueline 8x DVD-R
White inkjet hub printable
TYG02 (Made in Taiwan)
iHAS324-F (CL19)
SB on, FHT/OS/OHT off
Burned at 6x[/QUOTE]

Additional scans…


#154

CMC Pro (Powered by TY) Valueline 8x DVD-R
White inkjet hub printable
TYG02 (Made in Taiwan)
iHAS324-F (CL19)
SB on, FHT/OS/OHT off
Burn specified at 8x, effective 6x


#155

[QUOTE=jadburner;2776857]CMC Pro (Powered by TY) Valueline 8x DVD-R
White inkjet hub printable
TYG02 (Made in Taiwan)
iHAS324-F (CL19)
SB on, FHT/OS/OHT off
Burn specified at 8x, effective 6x[/QUOTE]

Additional scans…


#156

I’m doing a quick crosspost for a member:

Would anyone be willing to provide a dump of a iHAS324 CL18 or CL19 (or any earlier CL1x) firmware?

Reference: http://club.myce.com/f44/ihas324-17-fu-dvdram-crossflash-342068/#post2779914


#157

CL19 can be found here. I can re-dump if there’s a need.


#158

^ I ask partly because I don’t think you can crossflash with the official utility…and because I’d like to add the .bin to the archive. :bigsmile:


#159

[QUOTE=Albert;2779926]^ I ask partly because I don’t think you can crossflash with the official utility…and because I’d like to add the .bin to the archive. :bigsmile:[/QUOTE]

Ok. :stuck_out_tongue: I’ve uploaded the CL19 bin here. Hopefully it’s a valid dump.


#160

[QUOTE=jadburner;2779931]Ok. :stuck_out_tongue: I’ve uploaded the CL19 bin here. Hopefully it’s a valid dump.[/QUOTE]

It doesn’t look like it’s garbage. At the very least, the drive ID string is present in multiple spots, and it starts with “BOOT … BOOT … BOOT”, so I’m assuming the it’s intact.