Lot of post here asking about fake media, quality of their disc, identifying whose fake or not genuine etc…Of course sort deleberation and suggestion appeared for each member by sharing their own ideas. Does anyone here attempt to compile or keeping a list of confirmed fake media as future reference? It would be benefit for all of us here to have such list.
Well if you look up a bit you will see a sticky thread which does exactly what you are asking for!
I am not saying you are correct or wrong but its unfair to judge them that 100% certain sure fake.
I think its better to judge if our 1st reference is the media code (set aside first the writing quality first). Below are the sample:
00 42 00 00 01 40 D6 FD 9E D8 21 00 02 0E 08 06 .B…@…!..
88 85 0D 00 03 4D 43 43 20 30 31 00 04 52 57 31 …MCC 01…RW1
31 6E 39 00 05 06 88 85 0D 00 00 00 06 10 0B 05 1n9…
How can you can say that this media is fake or genuiene if your have such media code? How can you determine the information is correct? Of course don’t forget the quality performance which is the primary indication that the media is genuine.
Its easy to mention the disc fake but what is our basis other than writing quality performance?
That’s actually our problem…
Originally Posted by Wesociety in THIS news post.
" I think it is worth mentioning that the main reason for having the MID code is to guide the writer to use the optimum write strategy for that media. Each manufacturerâ€™s media is slightly different and the writer needs to be able to adjust the way it creates â€œpitsâ€ on that particular disc. During initialization, the firmware looks for the MID code, recognizes the manufacturer, then begins test writing based on guidelines in a lookup table. Also, there are no â€œlawsâ€ that limit the use of MID codes â€“ anyone can use any code without gaining the â€œrightsâ€, but it is generally regarded as unethical to use them without permission."
Joseph M. Weisenbach
Nope, that thread only covers fake Taiyo Yuden media. What about fake Mitsubishi/Verbatim media?
Very often the serial number printed on the disc helps. The fake ones have a totally different serial numbering system.
What if they adopt the original serial number and attached to the fake media? Fake disc manufacturer are more wise than we think they can duplicate what appears on the genuine. It would be better to focus on more technical aspect or disc specification but it takes a sophosticated equipment or analysing tools such DVD CATS (referee) to do this. It is not enough to judge or formulate conclusion out of nero cd/dvd result and the like whether the quality is good.
As mentioned in earlier reply the MID was uncontrolled its a matter of legalization, any manufactures can do what they want even copied the MID (e.g t.y) but quality performance suffer which is shoulder by user and buyer of the disc.
By using the ‘fake’ MID they are not trying to sell their discs as Taiyo Yudens, they are just trying to get some sort of burnability on the mojority of burners. This ofcourse is a problem since the discs are not in fact Taiyo Yudens…
So about them faking the serials, sure they can. But their goal isn’t to fake TY’s.
If you’re a small no-name company, you’re going to have a hard time to get the hot shots at the major manufacturers to add your media code to their drives. So you have no option but to piggyback on an existing code and strategy.
This becomes a problem only if the retailer decides to take advantage of this and started labeling these piggybacking TY discs as real TY discs.
If you know what a genuine maxell burn looks like (maxell 002, for example), and you compare it with something that is labeled Maxell, but comes up a different mid (like ritekg05) and you compare the burn graphs, then you know both ways what you have is not Maxell and just has an mid on it to make the burner recognize it as a certain mid to use that burn strategy.
However, unlike that engineering manager at MAM-A, there’s no way I see someone using an mid code that’s not theirs is legal, not in the US, anyway. If its a no-name company, well… I wouldn’t buy from them in the first place. However, if I see a TY code on a media that doesn’t have the quality burn of a TY, then I’m going to call BBB and whoever else to make sure said company knows I know it’s fake and try to make it to where they don’t sell that junk to anyone else. I mean, no offense…but if a retailer tries to palm that junk off on me as genuine TY, I’m going to be quite irate over it.
I read where one guy that worked someplace where they burned 6000 DVDs a month said that they had ordered some TYs a retailer advertised as genuine. Something about looking like TYs, but no TG or GG serial number anywhere on the inner ring (it was just blank), and it was poor burn and/or coaster after coaster.
They of course can adopt the serial number sequences used by the original manufacturers. However, they are not presently doing that as far as I am aware. So at this present point in time, serial number formats are useful. You don’t pass judgement on whether disks are fake or not solely on the strength of the serial number anyway. Most people who know take into account the packaging, the brand of the media, and the country of manufacture in addition to the media code and the serial number system. With all that information figuring out fake disks from genuine ones can be done fairly effectively.
DVD CATS might be technically sound as way to determine if disks are indeed fake or not but as you pointed out, it requires special equipment which is probably going to be expensive. The average user would likely not be bothered with that because he is only interested in buying disks that are good and work.
Same thing with Verbatim/Mitsubishi disks. They have a certain serial number sequence as well. I actually read a forum thread (forgot which forum unfortunately) where the people managed to figure out which company in Taiwan (Prodisc or CMC) made certain batches of made in Taiwan Verbatim/Mitsubishi disks based on the serial numbers. I don’t remember what that serial number sequence is though, nor do I know if they were correct in their conclusions ;). I do know though, that the made in Singapore ones have serial numbers that start with a V, often VX.