KVM Switch Issues

Hi Sorry if you’ve seen this before.

I’m currently running two PC’s off the same monitor (Dell E207WFP), keyboard and mouse using a Uniclass UDV-002 KVM Switch. My issue is that when I first installed it both PC’s worked fine, I left them running for about 20 mins and came back to see that one of my PC’s had the monitor shut down and the other hadn’t, I then could not get the monitor to start up on my first PC via the KVM but will run fine if connected straight to the PC. I’ve downloaded the latest drivers for the monitor and the Graphics card (NVidia Geforce FX5700). I haven’t been able to get the monitor to work at all on my first PC however there are no issues with the second.

PC 1 is running XP service Pack 3 and PC 2 is running Vista.

I had the same issue with a VGA switch but seeing at it is an LCD monitor I preferred the DVI-I input for the better quality.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Are you saying it doesn’t work via the KVM switch, or it doesn’t work when directly connected? The biggest problems with KVM switches are often cables. Of the few that I’ve used over the years, I never kept them attached very long because of the quality loss.

Might be the switch
I have used a Trendnet TK400 switch running 4 computers with 1 monitor and 1 set of keyboard/mouse for about a year now with no issues.

Also have a cheaper model at home running 4 computers .can’t remember the brand on it off the top of my head.

I’ve tried two different KVM switches a VGA cabled one and the DVI cabled one and both have the same issue the monitor will not work on my first PC but it will work when it is connected directly to the PC and works on the second PC via the KVM switch. I’ve got a theory that it might be to do with the amount of RAM I’m running, being 512, I’m waiting for some more to arrive and will install and test my theory. I’m guessing it can’t hurt as I could do with more RAM.

When the KVM switch was running I didn’t experiance any quality loss with the picture so i’m happy to keep on using it.

So when it was running it worked on both systems with good quality.
And you had the same amount of ram then?
You did not take out any ram?

How long did it work for 20 minutes?
You left the room so it might have only been a couple minutes working ?
And never again?

Did you disconnect it for a couple of hours and then retried it?

I would think if it was ram it would not have started at all.

I am leaning more towards cable/cables or connection myself.

But i would also look at the Power Supply, It is feed thru the connectors

RAM should not make any difference. The only hardware in question is the video card, cables, KVM, and monitor.

Have you tried different cables? Or simply swapped PC’s without changing anything else? Your signal level may be questionable on that PC and the additional cabling and KVM (or simply a questionable cable) are reducing the signal enough that the monitor can’t detect it.

I’m now leaning towards power supply with my PSU having just died, this coupled with some of what you guys have said to me it sort of makes sense my thoughts are that the KVM switch was pulling just that litle too much for the power supply to work effectively with everything else, the connector at the back where it connects to the outside world (via my UPS) seems to be the issue, and am now searching for another one that is suitable. Having never replaced a PSU before I’m alittle unsure if having a higher wattage one will make much of a difference with my setup. I’m currently running a 3.2 Ghz duel core processor 160G hard drive a Pioneer 111d burner, Liteon LH18A Burnder and Samsung 162D DVD Rom, I can’t remember the graphics card specs, all neatly packaged in an Antec case with the Antec True 380s PSU.

From what I’ve read I’m inclinded to stay with Antec but seeing as the true 380s is a little long in the tooth I really don’t know what Antec PSU to select. Cost really isn’t an issue I want something that will be as good as what I have previously had as my system is about 4years old at the moment, I want a PSU that will last the distance.

Try changeing the screen resolution lower. The cables the come with the KVM switch are custom and often not of the highest quality, one of my cables (audio) failed after a few days.

Personally I use Thermaltake PSU
This is just a reference:

This may be a good one for you.I would look around more and see if you can find a better price.I would get something around the 500 W range if I was you.

[QUOTE=sherman1972;2189877]I’m currently running two PC’s off the same monitor (Dell E207WFP), keyboard and mouse using a Uniclass UDV-002 KVM Switch.[/QUOTE]
First I’d say not a bad brand. I also have an Uniclass KVM switch (the very big brother of yours, the UDV-DM704A. It is a 4 port Dual DVI, USB, Audio KVM. I had a lot KVMs in my life at home and at work and I never had a better one.
Therefore I’m sure Uniclass is no Taiwan crap…

[QUOTE=sherman1972;2189877]I had the same issue with a VGA switch but seeing at it is an LCD monitor I preferred the DVI-I input for the better quality.[/QUOTE]
Looks for me like a problem of your TFT or your Video board, not a KVM related problem.

But you can try to contact Uniclass: http://www.uniclass.com.tw
Unforunately they do not have a support email address at their website.
Maybe there is a firmware update for your KVM available. They update the firmware once in a while…