But now I’m completely confused about what firmware to use
Back when the ND-2510a came out, I almost bought it, but held off until now. I read the forums back then, Herrie’s firmware was the one to get, and it had a lot of features like riplock removed, region free, faster burn speeds and better compatibility, etc.
Now, I checked the forums, and it seems the amount of firmware versions and their separate features is overwhelming. Is there another topic on the forum that goes over each firmware? Which one is the most popular now?
Sorry for making a new topic, I tried using the search, but “firmware” returns a lot of results
Researching firmwares is VERY confusing for the 3500a. If I had to choose one today I would go for the liggy’s 2.18. It has the riplock removed, is region free, and has bitsetting for +R, +RW, +R dual layer, and it has the newest media in it. If I were you I would give it a try. Other than that you have the 2c8se and the mad dog 2F9. All of which are good.
I don’t have the ND-3500A either but probably will soon. From the firmwares available & their ‘characteritics’, Liggy’s 2.18 & 2C8_SE seems to be the best so far. I would have to give the edge to Liggy’s though since it does have the updated media.
There is no break-in period! A firmware update is required for a specific problem. If no problem exist, don’t screw with f/w…
Example: I currently have 200 TY001’s. They are rated @ 4X and I want to burn at 8X. All versions of 3500 f/w (2.16, .217, 2.18, etc.) will do this just fine, why screw with f/w? Of course you could have X amount of BS media that may require a particular f/w to get a decent burn. Well then, it may be time to research options. Although throwing it in the trash and buying better media is probably the best option.
I’d suggest you consider why you purchased the drive. If your goal is to backup your DVD’s, then good media and stock firmware will achieve the goal. If your goal is to test various media, blaze new trials, become a CD Freak, and to “boldly go where no man has gone before”, by all means start buying media and testing firmware!
I consider the break in period is if it works or not. You don’t want to flash the drive just to find out you’ve voided the warranty and it was defective when you bought it. Not that it would stop you from putting the stock firmware back on it and returning it anyway. So what I did with my friend’s drive was flash it after we burned a couple disks. He really needed a firmware update, his dvd player has to have booktype DVD-ROM and it’s the only dvd reader in his puter, so the riplock had to go. If your computer isn’t stable or you have frequent power interuptions without a ups you should be really cautious. A bad or incomplete flash can render your drive a paperweight. If you don’t feel comfortable flashing it, don’t, it’s your drive.
Just bought the drive yesterday and before burning anything I flashed this hacked 2.18. It is exactly the firmware that I like: Based on the latest official release (with all its benefits), plus it has added all the unsupported tweaking options.
In fact, one of the reasons to reject the Pioneer and go for the NEC, has been these hacked firmwares.
Yep, that’s exactly why I got this drive. If all that were available were nec firmwares, this drive would suck! I don’t think liggy and Herrie realize this, we must give them the something in return. We should get together and make a fund for them to buy what they need for research and development, and any perks the fund leaves room for. If we just donated $1 each they would have more than enough. I understand they don’t want some peope sending a bunch of money, but they should get something out of this. I would gladly drop a dollar for this cause.
I agree with the other people who said wait until you’ve learned more about your particular drive, the media you have (will have), and what your current firmware lacks. In my particular case, I need +R SL bitsetting that has only been available in a few hacked firmwares so I’m always on the lookout for any new firmwares with newer write stategies that have this particular “feature”.
My advice, first learn what you need based on your current situation, then start experimenting with the available firmware.
pcdoc, I understand your viewpoints clearly and what you said makes more sense for me now than it did before. I suppose the primary feature (over RPC1 or riplock) I would like to get out of a DVD-RW is for bitsetting to be enabled for better compatiblity reasons. I’m glad BenQ does this with supported software for their drives.
Also, when a company such as NEC or BenQ releases new firmware to improve on its drive (faster write speeds, more support for media), do you feel the ‘average’ user should d/l the new updates to take advantage of these features. I’m not talking abt hacked firmwares, but ones that are released publically via their website.
The choice of course is yours, but I’m a believer in not trying to fix things that aren’t broke. Again using TY02 media as an example, if you have a good source for the media, you are satisfied with the price, you are getting great burns, and your library is growing with reliable backups, why make any changes. It’s not likely that any firmware upgrade will improve the good or great results you are already achieving. Leave well enough alone…
If you decide to move from SL to DL, or you have reason to change to a different media other than what is currently working for you, than you certainly may have to upgrade f/w to get satisfactory results. Again you have to define the goal. My priority is building a reliable backup inventory, but that’s not everyone’s goal. There are many people here that just enjoy testing and experimenting with different f/w and media, must be why theyâ€™re called CD Freaks. As a result we all benefit greatly from their efforts as they provide a tremendous pool of information offering suggestions and solutions to anyone willing to take a little time and effort to read their post.
This is a great site with many great people contributing to it.
I got a little windy but I hope I answered your questionâ€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦.