Using the Benq 1620 B7P9, i just burned a MKM001 (Verbatim) at 2.4 speed. The attached scan looks ok, and it plays perfectly on my PC. What it doesn’t do is play on my standalone player, a Sony DVP-NS333, It also doesn’t play on a newer model Sony standalone, they both gave the dirty disc error. On a Philips standalone i also get a disc error. I burned the disc with the DVD-ROM booktype. The question is : does anyone have succes with playing DL discs on standalone players (especially Sony)?
Not sure what software you used (some have problems) but i found that dvd decryptor worked best for me on dual layer discs…
Why did you not burn at 4x? With that FW you can burn at 4x b/c that makes your 1620 a 1620pro.
These are expensive discs (9.50 euro), so i don’t take any risk.
The disc was burned using Nero 188.8.131.52.
Maybe the bitsetting is different on the Benq? I did burn some discs with bitsetting on my NEC3500, and they showed up in CDspeed as DVD-ROM all the way, but the ones burned on the Benq behave different. In CDspeed the disc type is DVD+R DL, shouldn’t that be DVD-ROM too? Look at the attachment, that’s one burned on my NEC3500 with bitsetting. It clearly says DVD-ROM at “disc type”. When you look at the attachment in the first post, it says DVD+R DL, and when you check the disc with Nero infotool it says disc type dvd+R DL - booktype DVD-ROM.
I have seen many reports of compatibility problems with Nero and DL burning so I would recommend to use something else. If you’re backing up a DVD then ISO read - ISO write with DVD decrypter is known to work.
burning at lower speeds does not guarantee better quality . On the contrary there were reports that slower even produce coasters
Just burned another DL with DVD-decrypter ISO mode. It works!! to jsl for the golden tip.
reason he burned at 2.4x is because that media was rated at 2.4x max speed, so burning it at 4x would just be overspeeding and a slightly bigger risk of failure
It’s an option you set in the preferences for CD speed to show disc type or book type.
If I ripped a dvd with dvdshrink (and it removed the layer break), to burn it would I use Sonic RecordNow? I believe it puts in it’s own layer break when you burn anyway, right?
Which is superior, that method (or same programs but telling shrink to LEAVE the layerbreak) or doing dvddecryptor ISO read ISO write?
Should I just trash the backup on my HDD? Or is it good to go with the first method?
Personally I prefer the DVD Decryptor method because then you virtually get the same thing as the original. This leaves it the way it was authored so you don’t have to rely on software to calculate the layer break. I’ve only burned 1 so far and it plays in both my Yamahas, my LG and my son’s PS2 with no problems although with the LG there is a definite 1.5 second pause at the layer break.
You can check DL compatibility using this site where Sony NS-333 is not reported to be compatible. The Philips 737, 620 etc are.