I bought a hp 630i and after updating “its” firmware, i couldnt burn the spindle of dvd+rs I had already, (from the other hp dvdrw drive i upgraded from. ??)
So after looking on numerous forums I fouund out that my new drive is really a benq 1620. So I flashed it with the 2nd newest firmware for that benq model and it now shows up as a benq 1620 in windows and in other tests (nero, dvdinfo pro etc).
NOTE I did reflash it to the newest firmware for the benq models (b7T9).
Anyway, it DID burn a back-up dvd movie (Im using dvd xcopy express BTW) BUT the it WILL NOT read the movie, it only WROTE IT!! it just seems like theres a blank in the drive now, BUT my other dvd-rom will play it. What the heck?
But it does seem OK burning with a couple of other brands of media.
Im just nervous cause the first brand of dvd+rs I tried failed so , you know first impressions, should I switch it? The quicky media is e3works brand (I THINK its +R, not -R) and i cant any help at the other forums a or anyone who has this drive and similar issues. Anyway it worked OK before ANY flashing, when it was still a HP 630i, but with the new B7T9 it would rwrite the disc, (and it would take 30 min to read it BTW!!!) and the normal time to burn 5-6 with Verbatim 16X, but then neither of my drive would read it including the 1620!!
I wish I had an answer, its “fine” now (notice the quotes) that I flashed it back to B7P9, but I wish I had bought an NEC 3500 instead. :a :a :a :a
e3works are not good media, they are generic cheapo with e3works stamp on it, anyway the B7T9 is not friendly to cheapo disk. I would suggest you use B7S9 firmware for your e3works media, after that you’ll no longer wish you had bought the NEC and will be very satisfy.
I had typed a huge response to you but the server ate it but long story short the firmware is excelllent better than any liteons i have; IT can fix broken dvdrw disks led works properly red yello green ect…reads all the formats …and i have personally tested 10 types to death from wallmart stapels london drugs ect… nothing below 60
As well it can now over burn as well as over speed burn…I am burning…RICOHJPNR01 AT 8X AND 12X AND ITS RATED TO 4X…TRY THAT WITH MY LITEONS AND THEY MAKE COASTERS WITH ANY FIRMWARE…HP 630C TO BENQ 1620 PRO MAKES MOVIES EVEN AT 12X THEY STILL SCAN AT 60 PERCENT…I WOULD HAVE TO SAY IT IS THE BEST PUBLIC FIRMWARE I HAVE SEEN YET…BURN ONE AT 8X IN THE LITEON WITH ANY FIRMWARE IT DON’T MATTER AND ITS A 75 SCORE OR SO SAME DISK SAME SPEED DONE BENQ DRIVE AND ITS 96 SCORE…GO FIGURE MAYBE The RUMOUR OF AUTO OFF DURING BURN IS TRUE ,YA NEVER KNOW.LOLOL
AND YES…I am going to buy 4 more for myself and other machines here they ARE VERY WORTHY DRIVES. best 99 bucks cdn ever spent…lol my liteon was 129 and its about half as good as the benq …common you guys at liteon please rewrite the led routines back into the firmware or give me the compiler and I will do it myself, some of us like to know when green is ok yellow is loading buffer and red is burning…benq figured this out can you please…pretty please…
The other thing is unlike liteon you can be back to the original firmware without using utils like flashfix or something along those lines
It is very easy to just reload the bin from the manufacturer of your choice and then just flash with their latest firmware flaser exe no patchin …Done it got the teeshirrt so we know it works…
what the hell did you just say?
I used 16x verbatim with the B7T9 firmware and it gave me the same issue, explain that?
Someone has stated that flashing the L firmware in safe mode cleanses the drive of any past firmware programming. I don’t know if it’s true, but I did it anyway and reflash to T and I’ve had good results so far.
DVD Xcopy Xpress is trash!!!
Ah, that was me with the most recent posting of “cleaning” with the L9 firmware.
It was a theory of mine that a “Pre-Pro” firmware would be so different from the Pro firmware that it may knock out the new and different information from the newer firmwares. Another CD Freaks member had used the L9 firmware to successfully wipe out a mis-flashed S9. I had used M9 for the same thing with slightly less success (many tries). Both of us got S9 to work after this procedure.
So, that’s why I posted advice to flash to L9 if your new firmware upgrade does not work right.
It was a guess at the time, but now that L9 has recovered 6 drives from firmware freakout, I think it was a good guess.
Flashing to L9 first is faster than flashing T9 repeatedly until it works right (official method); but, you still may have to flash any “Pro” firmware more than once if it doesn’t take the first time.
There’s no way to find out if your drive is working right with the media you chose.
That media is inconsistent. Be sure to both scan and verify the remaining discs.
See the media scans on this site for some guidance to purchase good discs.
From my reading, Prodisc and Ritek are good economy discs.
Also see my new thread, coming up next, leaked from BenQ’s marketing department “preferred” media for T9.
Funny, I never had a coaster with it until I bought this drive. You’re trash!!
Anyway i reflashed it with B7T9 after the “cleaning” method mention above and…
DVDxcopy has a driver that is installed into Windows Device Manager.
The name of it is Pattin Couffin. It provides an interface directly to the DVD writer. However it slows down your system and conflicts with everything else.
Few set-top DVD players can muddle through the skips and jumps on always-badly-written DVDxcopy output.
I recommend that you uninstall DVDxcopy and replace it with two pieces of free software. DVDShrink and DVDdecryptor. Both are point-n-shoot automatic.
Start with Shrink, Open disc (at top), click reauthor, click-n-drag main movie from right to left, Backup (at top), send as ISO to DVDdecrptor, OK, 15 min (auto resize), Decryptor pops up, put in blank, choose speed, click the large HD>Disc icon in the lower left area, 6 to 15 min, and you’re done.
Be sure to use the verify feature with CMC or cheap media. If it (DVDdecryptor when used for writing) is not ordered (checkbox) to remove the ISO file after burning, you can make a second copy; but you should find and delete this very large *.iso file after you’re done with it.
So thats all I need to backup my dvds?? Got a link to new versions of these programs? Thanks and thanks again in advance.
Don’t miss the most amazing features of dvdshrink.
While we don’t usually do much editing, it is extremely easy with dvdshrink’s less documented features.
You can fit more than one dvd onto a disc (by saving discs into hard drive folders and opening files in full disc mode, stacking up movies in reauthor mode, switch back to full disc mode to open the next movie.).
You can also trim out unneeded soundtracks on the “compression” page.
You can trim the beginning and end of a movie with the |><| icon (and in multiple reauthor method, this will cut out commercials or damaged areas).
You can compress more than once (only one “filtered” pass)
With an inexpensive capture card, such as Avermedia, DVDshrink can re-size the VCR tape output from NEO’s max quality mode to fit onto a DVD blank, while the smoothing feature cuts out the m@cromedi@ static. Movies recorded from cable can be edited commercial free with multiple reauthor features of DVDshrink (just tell it to record as many copies as there are commercials and then quickly edit the many copies with |><| trim into short bits that do not include the commercials–the resulting short bits play seamlessly back to back nonstop commercial free).
Backing up movies from cable or dish is not illegal (for the person who pays the bill), but distributing movie copies is illegal unless you hold some of the copyright such as your car or pet or land is in the movie (oops! I’m sure they don’t want anyone to know that).
P.S. That MCC004 will do just fine
P.P.S. Glad you liked my/our cleaning method. Boy, that was a good guess.
Since CopyToDVD uses the same driver, would it be considered “trash”? It seems like this software has been used in the forum and reviews with good results.
The reason I said DVDXCOPYXPRESS is trash is because I own it and have had nothing but problems with it. Sometimes it would work and sometimes not. I just use DVDDcrypter and DVD Shrink. Works great everytime for me. Get quality scores in the 90’s!
double post sorry
DVDFab uses the same driver and i’ve seen it recommended on theis forums and others!!
Whats the story? Also every dvd I backup plays fine on a panasonic S-35, budget but very good dvd player.
I second danielwritesback’s recommendation. DVD Shrink and DVD Decryptor are the two excellent programs that I use to copy DVD’s. They both work extremely well.
If you happen to have a DVD player that can play XVID/DIVX movies (such as the Philips 642 available at most Walmart stores for under $90.00 Cdn/75.00 US), or if you have friends that might want to play your movie on their computer, but don’t have a DVD reader (just a CD reader), then you could add AutoGK to this list:
It’ll take a movie ripped by DVD Decryptor (you need to set DVD Decryptor to IFO mode before ripping) and convert it to down to about 700K in size with minimal loss in quality. Using AutoGK, you can easily put up to six high-quality movies onto a single DVD, or burn a complete movie onto a single CD.
I also agree that anything which adds any unnecessary drivers should be avoided if at all possible. I’ve personally run into MANY conflicts over the last few years related to conflicting CD/DVD burner drivers.
That burn looks perfect to me! Do you feel that it was the “cleansing” method that corrected it?
What about the e3works discs - do they burn any better now? Do you have any scans that you could perhaps post for them?
the e3 works now only go about 10% max. with dvdxcopy and “finalize” then the drive spits them out, but what there is on the disc WILL actually play on the 1620 now. I wish that they would burn all the way, cause now that they play in there ALL my issues could be gone.
How about using CDSpeed to burn a test disc (just for diagnostics purposes). If you have Nero installed, CDSpeed might use Nero’s built-in ASPI layer to access the disc, rather than the Adaptec generic ASPI one (which I’m not fond of because it’s yet another low layer driver that I’ve had problems with), and this might provide a different result. In any case, it’s probably worth doing.
You do it by running CDSpeed, clicking the “Run Test” menu item, and then selecting the “Create Data Disc” bottom menu item. There will be no confirmation - the disc will start writing immediately. CDSpeed will show you the writing speed real time, so you will know what is happening. You will waste a disc in doing this, but so far you’re not getting anything really useful from them anyway.
If you can, please post the CDSpeed results so we can see and comment on them.