Is MCC best than Taiyo Yuden?

Sorry, one more question.

I always thought that Tayio Yuden was the best quality media ever available.

But, I see lots of people here that prefere to buy MCC media, or even CMC media.
I wonder: nowadays, is Taiyo Yuden still the best quality media available ?

My concern is about archiving live.
I don’t want to burn backups that will become unreadble in 2 years.

What is for you the top DVD+R media, in term of archiving period ?

CMC media: Stable, but initial burn quality is sub-par. Especially the 16x CMC are not as compatible and well-supported.

MCC media: Stable, initial burn quality is usually good. But it is made at four plants, and may be inconsistant. Bad batches are around.

TY media: Stable, initial burn quality is usually excellent. It may become rare though, and 16x media is slightly worse than 8x and 4x media burn quality. But TY is always a good choice.

MXL media: Stable, initial burn quality is usually good. However, Made in Japan Maxell is rare!

If you can get Japanese (!!) Maxell (Maxell Xtreme Protek, Maxell BQ, Maxell Pro/Plus) you can go for these, Taiyo Yuden (YUDEN000 T02, 8x DVD+R and YUDEN000 T01, 4x DVD+R are my favorites) are excellent media too, and Verbatim (MCC 004, 16x DVD+R, made by CMC with MCC tech) is also very good.

Thank you very much for this short and clear explanation. :slight_smile:

Those media quality issues drives my crazy.

I read that the 8x YUDEN000T02 available at SVP suffer from dirt.
(source : )

So, what would be the best choice :

  • YUDEN000T02 (with the “dirt” problem)
  • Verbatim or Plextor YUDEN000T03
  • Verbatim MCC 004
  • Other choice ?

I don’t care that much about the price, I just want to be sure my data will be stored on a secure place.

Dependant on the severity of the ‘[I]dirt[/I]’ problem, I would probably choose T02 ahead of MCC004 as it has lesser variability & similar climatic stability (excluding potential bonding issues).

Otherwise, if you can obtain some (very difficult for non-North American users), Verbatim Medidisc/Maxell BQ/Verbatim UltraLife Gold Archival Grade discs are other possibilities.

The dirt issue can be easily resolved with canned air (before burning, because if the dirt stays on the disc while burning, it causes unburned spots), at least that’s what I read. I haven’t used the TY printables from SVP yet.

If you have a newer drive (of the 18x and recent 16x generation like LiteOn LH-18A1P, LG GSA-H10/12/20/22x, Optiarc 7170/7173) then I would recommend:

  1. YUDEN000 T02,
  2. Plextor YUDEN000 T03,
  3. and then a tie between Verbatim YUDEN000 T03 and Verbatim MCC 004.

If you have an older drive (older 16x or even 8x, like LG GSA-4160B, LiteOn SOHW-1693S), then it would be like this:

  1. YUDEN000 T02,
  2. Verbatim MCC 004,
  3. Plextor YUDEN000 T03,
  4. Verbatim YUDEN000 T03.

As I said before, the main problem with MCC 004 is that different factories make different quality MCC 004. The Made in India MCCs often (but not always) don’t burn as well as the Made in Taiwan ones.

Plextor TY usually is of a higher quality than the Verbatim TY.

Having an older 8x writer (Teac DV-W58E, made July 2004), I think I will go for the YUDEN000 T02 (and a air can. :))

Thank you very much for your help, and for sharing your knowledge.

We had issues in the UK with MIJ maxell spindles several months ago, labelled as Made In Japan but a Ritek MID.

In general, my feelings on media quality go like this:

Maxell Japanese High End media (BQ, Protek, Mori)
Maxell Japanese Regular (Maxell Plus Series, Maxell Consumer MIJ)
Verbatim 8x/16x DVD±R media (CMC)
Verbatim 8x/16x DVD±R media (MBIL)
Verbatim 8x/16x DVD±R media (Prodisc)
Taiyo Yuden 8x DVD+R
Taiyo Yuden 8x DVD-R
CMC 8x DVD±R (A Grade brands)
Acro Circle 16x DVD+Rs
Taiyo Yuden 16x DVD±R

Usually because of price considerations, I use Taiyo Yuden 8x DVD-Rs and CMC 8x DVD+Rs (or even Acro Circle 16x DVD+Rs) for cheap give away stuff. For important things I use Maxell or Verbatim, depending on the situation.

I have NO problem getting Maxell Japanese media though (it’s just >$1/disc)

My personal vote in branded media :
1)YUDEN T02 (Fuji,Verbatim,That’s,Plextor) still available
2)YUDEN TYGO2 (unbranded,Fujifilm,Verbatim,That’s,Plextor)still available
3)MCC 03RG20 (Philips,Verbatim-Taiwan CMC)
4)MXL RG04 (gold Maxell original) rare find
5)YUDEN TYGO3 (That’s,Verbatim)
6)SONY16D1 (Sony MIT)
7)Fujifilm03 (Fujifilm-Taiwan by Prodisc)

If you have an older drive (older 16x or even 8x, like LG GSA-4160B, LiteOn SOHW-1693S), then it would be like this:

  1. YUDEN000 T02,
  2. Verbatim MCC 004,
  3. Plextor YUDEN000 T03,
  4. Verbatim YUDEN000 T03.

My personal vote :
1)YUDEN T02 (Fujifilm,Verbatim,That’s,Plextor) still available
2)YUDEN TYGO2 (unbranded,Fujifilm,Verbatim,That’s,Plextor)
3)RICOHJPN-R01 (Fujifilm,Philips,Traxdata-usually burn @8x excellent results)still available
4)MCC-003 (Verbatim Taiwan CMC) still available
5)SONY08D1(Sony Τaiwan)
6)MBIPG101-R04 (TDK)still available

My LG drive (I use it to do most of my burns) seems to like MIT MCC 004 I burn them at 8x and 12x and get very good quality burns. The ‘dirt’ problem is not a problem as long as I check each disk before putting it into the drive, something I have never done before, but will from now on. I think it is something to do with the printable surface so there should not be a problem with non print disks.

I think it is down to what works best in your drive, mine like the verbs so I am going to keep using them, plus bare mind this is the first time I have had this dirt problem with any TY media, and I have used quite a few, so its not something that would stop me from using their media, its just I get such good results with a very easy to get and cheaper media :slight_smile:

I have found that Maxell MIJ media to be first rate. I have found the Quality Control of Maxell to be far higher than either TY or MCC. I have only used the MXL RG03 discs in jewel cases. I have about 195 of these discs left. Thank goodness I bought them up when they were been sold out of stock. Got them for a good price. I have never seen Maxell 002 discs in Australia but alot of people put these up as the one of the best discs made.
I also have 475 FUJI YudenT02’s left and these are as good as you can get.
I have used MCC 003’s and found them to be good. Not as good as T02’s however.
So I would say
1 Tie between T02’s and Maxell 002’s.
2. MCC 003’s

MIJ Maxell is excellent stuff, but it’s hard to find where I live and hard to afford when you find it… so I don’t go through much Maxell media.

I get the cleanest initial burns with TY T02, normally in the 50-100 total PIF range @ 8x. But I’ve also noticed that they’re dust magnets like no other media, and that can be rough when you’re putting it in and out of sleeves. Still, when you order TY from an honest merchant you know what you’re getting, unlike Verbatim MCC-003’s and 004’s.

Verbatim’s CMC-made MCC-004 is my current favorite media: 80-150 total PIF range usually, and I appreciate the lines on the branding because I label my discs using a high-tech Sharpie. They don’t grab dust like the T02’s, and they seem pretty durable. Supposedly stable, and I haven’t caught any degrading in my archives so I’m happy. I bought 600 from Newegg half a year ago that were all CMC made and beautiful, but a recent order netted me 100 Prodiscs that I couldn’t figure out how to burn well. I ended up giving them away. Now I’m a bit hesitant to buy them online because those Prodiscs were VERY bad.

MIT Daxon AZ2 & AZ3 is great value stuff. Cheap as dirt and PIF totals in the low triple-digits. Seem to be stable, but I don’t monitor them like my TYs and MCCs.

If you go by total PIF’s, then Maxell is garbage until about 2 or 3 years later, when it kicks the crap out of TY :stuck_out_tongue:

But total PIFs is rather useless anyways, so I never even look at it.

TY is not RITEK G05!
Usually TY should survive more than three years and be stable…

There were reports of degradation from Maxell, MCC, TDK and (surprise surprise) Ritek media too, so no media is really safe.

I’m not saying TY is dead in 3 years, I’m saying that the PIF rate has increased to the point of being higher then Maxell’s.

Keep in mind I’m comparing Maxell’s Japanese media against TY’s regular Premium unbranded media. In specific I’m comparing 8x DVD-Rs from both.

In my past experience with all media the list you have shown seems to be exactly what I have experienced. I have tried all the media types and if I could get my hands on somemore Plextor Taiyo Yudens, the ones I had were sent to me from England, they are " First Stamped Media " and are by far the best you can buy. Especially the Yuden000-T02-000.

So far my rescan TY’s seem to have less PIF than the original. Last time was 1 year old discs. This time it’s a random Pastel/Verbatim TYG02 with 4479 MB burned @ 4x in a NEC 3500 - rescanned 18 months later. First is new scan, 2nd is original

Here’s another one of those darned TY’s. This is a hub printable disc - almost 18 months old and showing signs of age. A 25% increase of PIF. Another full disc burned in the 3500, this time @8x speed :wink:

Well it DOES help that you’re using Verbatim brand TY media. Verbatim (unlike say, FUJI) has incredible quality control in place, and they don’t go easy on TY if they screwup. I’ve seen more then enough unbranded TY CD-Rs and DVDRs self destruct in one year completely to question the product line in general (which is to say about 50 discs from 3 or 4 batches), and I’ve seen a significant amount of TY discs degrade quite noticably after even 1 year (although still be quite readable).

This is why I only use TY for short term applications now. They’re great for compatability, but no longer worthy of trust for long term projects.

Don’t forget that scanning behavior can change with different firmwares. :slight_smile:

Completely unrecognizable? Bad spots? …
I have seen enough MBI CD-R self-destructing, I’ve seen enough TDK DVD-R self-destructing, and for the record, I have seen enough Ritek DVD-R self-destructing. even Verbs and Maxells aren’t safe (even if stored properly) :slight_smile:
How many discs do you use per year? Just want to know…