Is it reliable?

Hi guys,

I’m new around here. First of all, sorry for my english, I’m spanish.

I just wanted to ask if “DVD Identifier” software (I use v 5.0.1) is reliable. I mean, if I identify a blank Verbtim DVD+R, and the program tells me it’s a “MCC 004”, then there is no chance that the DVD is false?? Or even if DVD Identifier says it’s a “MCC 004”, it can happen that this information isn’t true ??

and between “MCC 004” and “MCC 03RG20”, I have read that “MCC 004” is better, is that right??

thank you all!!

Yes, it sreliable.

But that doesnt guarantee that the media you have bought are genuine or have a stolen/faked DYE.

[QUOTE=chef;1974631]Yes, it sreliable.

But that doesnt guarantee that the media you have bought are genuine or have a stolen/faked DYE.[/QUOTE]

thanks!! and how could I know if the media I bought are genuine ??

Check the DVD blank subforum here, many people have posted valid hubcodes and barcodes. :wink:

[QUOTE=chef;1974936]Check the DVD blank subforum here, many people have posted valid hubcodes and barcodes. ;)[/QUOTE]

thank you for the answer. I guess you mean this forum when you say “DVD blank”, but I can’t find an answer to my problem there.

I have bought a spindle of 25 DVD+R Verbatim, and I don’t know if they are fake or not… first of all, the packaging is like this one:

[B]but it’s a 25 disk spindle[/B], and I can’t find a 25 disk spindle with this packaging in verbatim’s official site. do you know if this is a sign of fake media?

DVD Identifier says the DVDs are “MCC 004”. how could I know if these are fake media??

can anyone help me? thank you very much!!

Hi [B]diwit[/B], welcome to CDFreaks! :slight_smile:

All available evidence suggest that you have genuine Verbatim media.

I get better results with MCC004 than MCC03RG20 myself, but tastes differ.

[QUOTE=diwit;1975475]
DVD Identifier says the DVDs are “MCC 004”. how could I know if these are fake media??

can anyone help me? thank you very much!![/QUOTE]

I agree with Drage, but for absolute proof, you can also post the codes you see around the hub of the disc, as mentioned by chef (they may be a little difficult to see unless you hold the disc up to the light) :slight_smile:

I also like the MCC004 very much :wink:

[QUOTE=chef;1974631]But that doesnt guarantee that the media you have bought are genuine or have a stolen/faked DYE.[/QUOTE]It’s not the dye, it’s the media code that is usually faked. :rolleyes:
It is [B]highly improbable [/B]that the manufacturers selling discs with faked media code have [B]stolen the dye [/B]from the legitimate manufacturers. (I cannot exclude that the manufacturing process has been reverse engineered though, but this is far away from “stolen dye”.)

Discs with faked media codes have shown up a lot in the past, and large numbers of media with fake media codes (mostly TY fakes, made in Hong Kong or Macau) were sold under cheap brands.

Verbatim has only recently introduced a new packaging design and did not fully update their website yet, therefore I assume that your media is genuine.
To ensure the legitness of the disc, check the codes.

In the transparent hub of the disc:

  • Code either starts with PAP (Plus, Azo, 16x SpeedD) [CMC Taiwan]
  • or Code contains + [Prodisc Taiwan]
  • or Code contains +R [Moser Baer India]

In the darker inner hub of the disc:

  • Code looks like ZD…-DVR-T74D (may be hard to read; read from the back)

[QUOTE=kg_evilboy;1975939]It’s not the dye, it’s the media code that is usually faked. :rolleyes:
It is [B]highly improbable [/B]that the manufacturers selling discs with faked media code have [B]stolen the dye [/B]from the legitimate manufacturers.[/QUOTE]:iagree: The dye/mediacode common misconception has striked our friend [B]diwit[/B].

[B]diwit[/B], despite what many misguided individuals post on the net, the mediacode is not a code for ‘the dye’ :disagree:, it’s the code for the model of the disc.

Some disc models can actually have the very same dye and have a different mediacode.

hi, thanks for the answers, I think I’m beggining to understand all this…

so, the dye ID is the one I get with DVD Identifier, and the media code is the one written in the tranpsparent part of every disc, is that right??

then, the dye can be faked, so even though I get a “MCC 004” with DVD Identifier, this doesn’t mean that my media is genuine. I have to look at the media code of the disk to ensure.

I’m not at home and I don’t have the ‘new’ DVD+R disks here, so when I get home I’ll post the media codes here. But I have some ‘old’ verbatim DVD+R discs here (the ones sold before the new verbatim packaging), and their media code is:

MAP635JK21021598 2
ZD4079-DVR-J47CI

what can you tell me about these ones??

thank you very much again!!

No, the media code is what DVD Identifier gives you. The type of dye for Verbatim media is metal-stabilized AZO. Other dye types include cyanine and oxonol.

[QUOTE=diwit;1976921]so, the dye ID is the one I get with DVD Identifier, and the media code is the one written in the tranpsparent part of every disc, is that right??[/QUOTE]Wrong. The dye is the material that is used during the production process for the recording layer. Dyes that have been used for recording layers of different optical media are Azo, Cyanine, Oxonol, Phthalocyanine, Formazan…

The [B]media code[/B] is the ID that is detected by DVD Identifier and others (MCC 004 etc.)

The [B]codes [/B]that are written in the [B]transparent hub part[/B] are [B]internal [/B]hub codes that may vary from production plant to production plant. The codes may give you hints and valuable information about the production process.
For example, the first four chars of [I][B]MAP6[/B]35JK21021598 2[/I] (a serial that is used on discs produced in CMC Magnetics’ facilities) make clear that it is [B]M[/B]inus (DVD-R/dash), [B]A[/B]zo dye, [B]16x[/B] speed, building [B]6[/B] (other information is included too, such as date of production).
Therefore, this disc that you used is definitely not MCC 004, but MCC 03RG20 instead.

The codes that are written in the [B]opaque hub section[/B] are [B]stamper codes[/B].
[B]Z[/B][B]D[/B]4079-[B]DVR[/B]-[B]J[/B]47[B]C[/B]I is the stamper serial; it’s a Mitsubishi/Verbatim stamper that has been used here. It also contains the “16x DVD-R” information, however I do not exactly know how it is stored (the ZD, DVR, J and C are significant).

Yes, this can be confusing, especially since misinformation is widespread :frowning:

ok, now I think I have it clear.

but now, what should I look to ensure my media are genuine??
the MCC 004 ?? the MAP… ?? the ZD…-DVR-… ?? or which of these is more reliable??

and another thing… I’ve found in another forum the following information:

[I]Made in Taiwan = CMC or Prodisc
Made in India = Moser Baer
Made in Singapore = Mitsubishi Chemical corp
Made in Japan = Taiyo Yuden[/I]

and in this forum the following (by kg_evilboy):

[I]Stuff like 5363 509 -R E B 18601: MII by MBI.
Stuff like PAP…/MAP…/MAH…/PWD…: MIT by CMC.
Stuff having - or + in the middle: MIT by Prodisc.

Which ones are the preferred Verbatims?
CMC MIT Verbatims[/I]

I have a little confussion with my media, because they are MCC 004, and in the packaging says “Made in Taiwan”, so are they made by CMC?? then why are they MCC ?? could you explain me all this a little bit??

THANKS!!

@ diwit,
You might save yourself some time and do a bunch of searching and reading of the sticky info/threads in the Blank Media forums.

But as KG_EvilBoy said the MID (media code) is the basic type of disk which is made up from the [B]Dye and lots of other things[/B], and can be made at a number of [B]Plants[/B] and also [B]under License[/B] from that maker hence …Verbatim’s own disks are MCCxxxx, and are made at quite a few places, but IMO most of the MIT and MII media is very good, in other words I often say that I like MCCxxx media the best. No matter what factory made it, its basically all Verbatim. The same sort of thing goes for most MID’s I think.

The codes that are written in the transparent hub part are internal hub codes that may vary from production plant to production plant.

This is what I call the [B]BATCH [/B]number, and will lead to a single factory/batch of disks …not just a [B]range[/B] (DVD -R or 16x etc) of media like the MID.

Made in Taiwan = CMC or Prodisc
Made in India = Moser Baer
Made in Singapore = Mitsubishi Chemical corp

All media from any of these is MCC or Mitsubishi Chemical corp media and will have an MCCxxxx MID for the range of disk. I also thought that Singapore was MKM or Mitsubishi Kagaku Media.

MI Japan media is yet another thing, because its made by Taiyo Yuden for Verbatim it is [B]NOT [/B]MCCxxx media.

To save yourself time if you get Verbatim media, thats unopened in Verbatim packaging, 99+% of the time you will get good media, I have not heard of a fake media that also does the whole package ???
Am I correct in thinking this, regs ???

[quote=Lenny_Nero;1977363]… I have not heard of a fake media that also does the whole package ???[/quote] There have been counterfeit Verbatim DVD media reported on this forum. I think it was in Hungary and it was the old Verbatim packaging. There’s a thread about it somewhere.

EDIT: Here it is:

Help us to identify the source of fake Verbatims

[quote=diwit;1977273]and another thing… I’ve found in another forum the following information:

[I]Made in Taiwan = CMC or Prodisc[/I]
[I]Made in India = Moser Baer[/I]
[I]Made in Singapore = Mitsubishi Chemical corp[/I]
[I]Made in Japan = Taiyo Yuden[/I]
[/quote]That is correct.

and in this forum the following (by kg_evilboy):

[I]Stuff like 5363 509 -R E B 18601: MII by MBI.[/I]
[I]Stuff like PAP…/MAP…/MAH…/PWD…: MIT by CMC.[/I]
[I]Stuff having - or + in the middle: MIT by Prodisc.[/I]

Also correct.

[I]Which ones are the preferred Verbatims?[/I]
[I]CMC MIT Verbatims[/I]

Many people prefer the Verbatim 16x DVD media manufactured by CMC, but I’m not so sure that there’s a good reason to prefer one over the other.

Ouch.
It was a bit before my time here, so I have not seen the thread, but …could it be possible to still say what I did ?
…Verbatim media, thats unopened in Verbatim packaging, 99% of the time you will get good media…
But if you live in Hungary might be worth looking into it harder ?

I 'spose if you add that getting it from a good place/shop that has a reputation to look after is also a good idea, and not off of some market stall or out of the back of a van :slight_smile:

I feel a bit bad that I have always said the above to people that ask me for good media but dont want to get involved with the MID’s and Batch numbers thing.

@Drage looks like we missed each other while editing :slight_smile:

If anyone asks which media to get and they require a simple answer, Verbatim is the only answer I can give them.

There’s other good media and there’s also a risk of getting bad Verbatim media, but all things considered it’s the simplest and best choice for media you can buy in regular shops, unless you want to go into detail about + and - and speed rating and country of origin and cakebox types and fonts and media codes and hub codes and…

For more complex answers we have the CDFreaks Blank Media forum! :smiley:

[QUOTE=DrageMester;1977385]If anyone asks which media to get and they require a simple answer, Verbatim is the only answer I can give them.
[…]
For more complex answers we have the CDFreaks Blank Media forum! :D[/QUOTE]

Thanks, I have said “just get Verbatim”, to a lot of people over the years, that when I start on about …MID’s and dyes, just say, no, I just want a good media I dont care about that stuff :rolleyes:

I just had a bad feeling that for people overseas they might have problems with fakes because I did not know that the whole package had been done. I always thought that Verbatim were such a big Co. that they would go after someone that did that, with all guns blazing.

[QUOTE=diwit;1977273]but now, what should I look to ensure my media are genuine??
the MCC 004 ?? the MAP… ?? the ZD…-DVR-… ?? or which of these is more reliable??
[/QUOTE]

thank you guys, but you don’t have answered to this… what would be the order in which the codes should be looked? which of them is the most important, the one that most probably tells us it’s a genuine (or fake) media??

from all your answers, I understand that the first one that should be looked is the stamper code (ZD…-DVR-…), then the hub code (PAP…), and the less reliable should be the media code, cos it’s (the most) “easily” fakeable (?) ?? am I right??

thanks again!!