I Want To Burn Cd's At 1x Or 2x

I have a old Alpine Car CD player from 1993. I love the player because it has a classic look and does not look like most of the light shows most companys make today. Anyway, I had a older PC with 2 Plextor SCSI 4x drives and I could play any CD in my car even if I used cheap media. Now I am using a P4 with XP Pro and Easy Creator 8 and the slowest it will burn is 8x and almost every CD does not play in my car. I even bought a pack of Archival Gold (300 year disc) made of real gold that 25 cost around $35. Now they will play most of the time but only the first 75% of the CD. I have a Sony DRU-800A DVD burner and a Hi-Val Ide 5224 both are 52X and will go down to 8X with Nero and Roxio 8.
Someone told me that I will have to find old 4x media in order to make the drives burn that slow. In the program’s drop down menu I see the lower speeds but once the drive reads a 52x CD the times change to 8x as the lowest.
Do I have to find an old 2x or 4x burner? I am sure they are so old that they would give me more problems and might not work. Or do they make any programs that burn at 1x, 2x, 4X no matter how high the media can burn?

Love the forum - just joined today

Hi [B]peabody67gto[/B], welcome to CDFreaks! :slight_smile:

If you find the right media, you wouldn’t have to write at a slower speed than your CD burner can handle. I suggest you try and find some Taiyo Yuden CD-R media.

Modern drives are not optimized for writing slower than approx 8-12x on CD-R media, but the best drives will write with excellent quality at 8-16x on high quality media such as Taiyo Yuden.

It’s possible to buy a drive that can burn at 1x and 2x such as the Plextor PlexWriter Premium2, but that drive is several times more expensive than a regular CD or DVD burner.

I will try that media but this is the very expensive gold CD-R’s that cost me $40 for only 25. Could you please look at the summary on these and see if they are like the Taiyo before I try them.


Gold media can be good for archival, at least that’s the theory, but for a picky CD player using CD-R media with a golden reflective layer can actually be a disadvantage because they reflect less of the laser beam.

I suggest you try some other non-gold quality media such as e.g. Taiyo Yuden or Verbatim.

OK Thanks,
I found some Taiyo Yuden on Ebay for a good price. I am going to bid on them now. They have ones that are Silver and also a Silver/Blue Super Cyanine Dye. Which one should I try?
Also does the heat play any part in reading the CD-R? I live in New Orleans and when it is very hot my old Alpine will not read any CD-R but will always read a regular CD.

I don’t use eBay so I can’t help you there. If you’re in the US I would take a look at Rima.com which sell Taiyo Yuden CD-R media and is quite popular with our U.S. members here at CDFreaks. Many people don’t like the plain Silver Lacquer surface which attracts fingerprints and is the least protective surface, so perhaps you should go for one of the Inkjet Printable surfaces.

Heat can be a problem to any electronic equipment, including your CD player.

Over time heat and humidity will also shorten the lifespan of your recordable CDs and DVDs.

Hi Again,
If I use a label do I need to get the Inkjet Printable surface? You said the the plain Silver Lacquer surface which attracts fingerprints and is the least protective surface. Is protective surface on the data side not as protective as the inkjet media?
I have found these for $27 shipped. Are these the correct ones to try or should I get the inkjet to me safe?

My comments about the plain (silver lacquer) surface not being as protective as the other surfaces is based on other people’s reported experiences with TY CD-R media, and not based on my personal experience. I use Plextor branded and Verbatim branded Taiyo Yuden CD-R media instead.

Adding paper labels to CDs can be a very bad idea and there’s a thread dedicated to such problems with DVDs:

Sticky paper labels on DVD+/-R discs: beware!

The problem with paper labels on CDs is less severe than for DVDs, but I would still suggest that you don’t add paper labels to your CDs.


    • Moved to the Blank Media forum from the CD and DVD Burning Software forum * *

If/When you use higher speed media such as 40-52x, burn them at ‘middle’ speeds such as 16-32x as high speed CD-Rs + high speed burners usually get the best results at those speeds and usually burn worse at low speeds such as 4-8x.


My audio burns at 16x on Taiyo Yuden CD-R media from www.rima.com produce burns that have worked in any CD player in any car that I have tried-eh!

THANKS for all the info. I have ordered some from Rima and will let you know the results. I tested a bunch of CD’s I made with labels on them and was blow away with the errors. NO MORE LABELS FOR ME!
GO SAINTS :slight_smile:
I Live in New Orleans!

Looking forward to hearing from you again about how the TY CDs are working for you. Which ones did you end up buying?

I tested a bunch of CD’s I made with labels on them and was blow away with the errors. NO MORE LABELS FOR ME!
Another soul rescued from the evil claws of paper labels. :bigsmile:

I have used Verbatim “Digital Vinyl” in very picky car stereos. Until recently I could find the 16X disks at Microcenter, now it seems they only carry the 52X variety, which is fine but I prefer the older media.


52x verb vinyls are crappy pthalocyanine discs. The 16x ones would be the Metal Azo (blue) discs which are way better IMO.

@ Original Poster - Those gold ones you purchased are a load of rubbish. Whenever you see an unkown branded disc claiming its “high quality” or “A grade” or any rubbish like that, you can almost be certain the discs are complete rubbish.

Not completely true.
IT’s very media dependant and then it’s also the question what are you looking at.
It can be quite complicated.

I’m not so sure about that one. Compatability with metal azo disc’s was much better. But at this moment quite some of Metal AZO disc’s are degrading !
ALso these days the CMC pthalocyanine’s score better as the mitusbishi’s azo disc’s in accelerated aging tests.

Well just as I said it’s USUALLY the case.

One more question on my picky player. Is it better to burn using disc at once or track at once? Or for picly players this does not matter.
Should get my Tayio’s in Thursday and will let you know if they play in my Alpine.
I also forgot to say that the few CD’s that do play will play fine until they get about 60% done. On the last few tracks they will not play, or they skip like crazy. This is on a new burn. Is playing the last part of a CD-R harder to read then the beginning?

Always use [I]disc-at-once[/I] when available (some burners don’t have this feature). More compatible Aduio discs this way. :slight_smile:

Which is again untrue.

Let me say this in most cases lower speed means lower jitter.
Now if I would only base my opinion on jitter I could see slower is better.
What your doing is only looking at BLER which was measured by one device and is the BLER as reported by that drive.
Don’t focus on single parameters !! :cop:

Well dear [B]Dakhaas[/B] (hi :)), what you’re stating is not entirely true either.

With most burners, lowering the burning speeds lowers the jitter, yes, but only until a certain point.

For example, with my TY CDs in 4550, best jitter can be achieved @12X, 8X doesn’t improve it further.
In my Plextor CDR burner, best jitter can be achieved @16X, lowering the burning speed doesn’t improve it further.
In my 1650, no improvement at all from lowering the burning speed under 32X (but the Benq is not a great CDR burner for low jitter, anyway).

The same is not true for DVDR media, though, for these indeed the lower the burning speed the lower the jitter. I could achieve a constant 6.41% (as tested in Benq) by burning MCC 16X rated media @4X:bigsmile: