I have to repair a motherboard... and need a SATA connector

vbimport

#1

Not asking anyone here for one just a source to BUY a SATA connector.

I HAD a source and they are unfortunatly out of buisness

Basically I have an expansive motherboard where the connector shell for the first SATA channel physically pulled off the board.

If it had simply pulled off I’d just shove it back on and glue it in place
but ONE of the connector pins snapped off and pulled out with the connector shell.

I can unsolder the pins and extract them from the board
but the thought of doing it to a complete connector and
having it not melt during extraction…

Anyone know where to go for one?

Preferably an online source

Most importantly some place that won’t insist on selling me a thousand of them…


#2

How about this one?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/67800-8005/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtDa8bhoiaN7Pq4jfSokL61

or here (same part) http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0678008005/WM19103-ND/1499151

The Molex part number is 67800-8005 if you need to look it up at other sites. This is a vertical connector. Haven’t looked for a 90 degree connector for you, but if you need that, you can probably find one at one of these suppliers.


#3

Thank you, Perfect!

I did a quick google search before I posted the question and every place that came up either had a rediculous minumum order quantity or a minimum order Dollar amount OR wanted $9.95 EACH for the little bugger. (plus shipping)

Frankly I’ll order ten or 20 of them and consider it a lifetime supply.

If it wasn’t a MoBo that’d cost a painful ammount to replace I probably wouldn’t bother.

Of course if anyone knows where I can get a working ASUS IPIBL-TX MoBo
(aka HP GL8E “Burbank” Motherboard) for reasonable$… without giving my Visa/MC # to someone in CHINA…


#4

There is a refurbished one here if you don’t mind refurbished that is:

They are based in NY (my state actually) so at least you’re dealing with a real company where you can return it to if anything.


#5

[QUOTE=xtacydima;2658171]There is a refurbished one here if you don’t mind refurbished that is:

They are based in NY (my state actually) so at least you’re dealing with a real company where you can return it to if anything.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the thought, but the IPIBL-LB you link to is very different from the IPIBL-TX.

First off the -LB board is if I’m not mistaken a “BTX” pattern MoBo, and it has fewer expansion slots.

The TX is a full size ATX board and has it’s PCIx16 video card slot FOUR PCIx1 slots as well as two “old school” PCI slots.

There are a few dealers in Hong Kong that I’d be willing to take a chance on with a replacement -TX board.

Though I can get a functionally identical Gigabyte board, that
provides a PCI x16 2.0 video card slot and an onboard eSATA
for about $20 less, though that would require a complete re-install
Simply swapping in an identical board would only require a "reactivation"
of Windows, and possibly a New “Product code”/CoA

But if I’m careful I might track down one of the Gigabyte boards that takes DDR3 RAM… and for that I can buy 16GB (4 x 4gb) faster RAM for less than half what the current 8gb of DDR2-6400 cost.


#6

Rather than trying to replace the on board connector could you take a SATA cable, cut a connector off, strip the end and tack solder the wires to the MotherBoard?


#7

[QUOTE=olyteddy;2658476]Rather than trying to replace the on board connector could you take a SATA cable, cut a connector off, strip the end and tack solder the wires to the MotherBoard?[/QUOTE]

I could, but as it is SATA-1, I don’t want to.

I may be a bit out of practice, but I used to work for one of Intel’s
R&D divisions turning the dreams of engineers into reality.

I may not be the best in the world with a soldering iron, but
I doubt that you could fill a Greyhound bus with people who
are better than I am, so I’m not really afraid to fix the board.

If I mess up the repair I’m no worse off than I am now, I’ll still
have five working SATA channels. The point is that until the connector broke I had SIX

I have another secret weapon, I have a collection of teeny-weeny
drill bits, so I have no intention of trying to blow, suck or wick the
solder out of the holes, I don’t want to apply heat to that delicate
board for as long as I’d need to to use “conventional” methods of
removal.
I’ll heat the solder just enough to yank the pins then I’ll use
an 0.012" drill bit in a pin vise to cut the solder out of the 0.020" diameter holes.

I am and always have been “mechanically inclined”.

AD


#8

For those wanting really small drill bits I use a set of carburetor re-jeting bits.


#9

Could you show some before and after pics? I’m pretty curious to see how you fix this! I guess most people just buy a new board but this is much better! :bow::bow:


#10

[QUOTE=G_Ivan Awfulitch;2658580]For those wanting really small drill bits I use a set of carburetor re-jeting bits.[/QUOTE]You usually get a set of tiny drill bits when you buy a pin vice. Mine came with about 25 bits and they are really cheap.


#12

hey I know its an old post-going to try myself on hp xw8400 m/bd I snapped plastics of external socket and left pins bare…anys advice very gratefullly reeived (err novice-but keen)
best, tonny (Kent, UK)