I am looking for a 3 sheep CD/DVD Burner



LG 4167B (DL13) retail.

my current DVD Burner as stated above won’t let me copy several games without using hacks/cracks/hiding of drives/software based emulation/ etc. etc.

is there a DVD Burner (Doesn’t have to be LG) that meats my needs that is 150$ or less?

my current task is getting playstation 1 games to work =\ but all i get is the dreaded red screen saying to insert a compatible disc (i have a ps2) :frowning: and yea i use the latest alcohol 120% and used the default psx profile.


The Asus 1814BLT is a three sheep burner that can be had rather cheaply. However, I don’t think that it’ll help you play PSX backups. To play them, you’ll either need to mod your PSX or get a swap disc, like Breaker Pro.


thanks. (i’ll take a squiz at it, and uh just a note that im in australia, so currency is AUD.)


can no longer edit post ^^" what is mount rainier? and what is CD+G? (55$ bucks for that dvd burner lol)


Mount Rainier is a relatively obscure format for rewritable optical media. In short, it has a system for error correction such that your data on RW discs remains readable for a longer time.

CD+G read/write means, if I recall correctly, that the drive can read and write the sub-channel data on CD’s. CD+G is most popularly used for karaoke CD’s. The lyrics are stored in the sub-channel.

Regardless, if your main objective here is to play backup Playstation games, look toward Swap Magic 3 and Breaker Pro.

edit: I see the Asus 1814BL/T on Newegg for $42.


ok, thank you.

ok, sub channel is also used for copy protection in PC games and other stuff, just didnt know that CD+G stands for reading sub channel data. (my current drive can’t read sub channel data =\ )

that is one of my objectives, i have others like just a general good copier/reader for general gaming and movie’s (i use dvd shrink for dvd movies.)

i don’t buy from online shops, i buy from a local retailer or direct from a distributor.

does reading at a slower speed increase the chance of a successful copy or does it just reduce the chance of a coaster? there is a difference :wink:


Why’s that? I bought my PX-760A and LH-20A1H from Newegg, and I’ve had no issues whatsoever thus far. FYI, the 1814BL (PATA version) can be had on Newegg for $31.


whats better? PATA, SATA 2 or IDE (well i know IDE is worser then SATA 2)


is this burner a 3 sheep burner?

edit: im reading the review now :slight_smile:

you know he “cyclic redundency error”? i got that for one of my baldur’s gate II cd’s during install, i had to copy the CD under windows 98 on my other PC then transfer the files across (i had to burn all to a single DVD or have all in a single location on the hard drive in order to install =\ )


Well, PATA is IDE. There’s really no difference in real-world performance between the two interfaces at the moment.
I stick with IDE/PATA because I’ve already made the mistake of assuming that my SATA ports can run an ODD. I used to have a Samsung S183L, but my SATA controller couldn’t handle it; it was designed back when only hard disks ran on SATA. So, unless you’re absolutely certain that your SATA ports can run optical disc drives, I’d go with PATA. PATA is just fine for the time being, provided that you can put up with ribbon cable, master/slave configurations, and have an available channel.

Don’t buy Sony drives. They’re re-badges of other drives with a 100% markup and slower firmware updates. I think the DRU-830A is a Samsung S182, which is a two sheep burner.


my motherboard is a ASUS P5LD2 Standard… yea, i know i can find out my self, BUT i don’t knowwhere to look to find out such things.

i noticed this.

ok then :wink:


ASUS DRW-1814BLT ? (you didnt include the DRW- part, so is that what you suggest?


That’s the one. :iagree:


This thread has virtually to do with LG writers and doesn’t belong in this thread. Moving it to the general Optical Drive section where you should be able to get better responses.


ah, ok thank you :slight_smile: