the new liteon firmware are said to be scrambled in the flasher, but when flashed to the drive, will they stay scrambled or become normal?
so to unscramble them you need to flash a drive to use them, then backup the firmware with another tool…
Or does it need some hacking and reverse engineering to do it?
Hi mcbyte
Well if you flash the origianl firmware to your orginal drive(i.e. 832s VS08, not 812s@832sVS08) you can do it like that. But if you load the scrambled firmware to the drive you want to overclock, youll notice afterwards that your drive keeps blinking.
regards
i don’t want to unscramble it. i have only 812… but was wondering how did they (firmware hacker) made it.
so, if i put official 832 firmware on 812, will it start blinking directly after finish flashing, or on reboot? i will not do it anyway 
Scrambling has nothing at all to do with crossflashing really. The firmware is called scrambled because some parts of it are out of order. If you take the firmware from the flash tool without unscrambling it and flash it to your drive, then your drive won’t work (not even the blinking LED, maybe a solid green LED) because the firmware is all messed up.
The story behind this:
a) the normal way of flashing
You use an original flasher (.exe) to update your drive. If the flasher
detects an unsupported drive (e.g. when trying to flash an 832’s
firmware into an 812s), it will refuse flashing.
b) the cheaters’ way of flashing
You grab the official fw, run it through OmniPatcher and either
get a .bin file or a “more-user-friendly” .exe. Both can be used
to flash 812S@832S, for instance (EEPROM check has to be
disabled).
As the newer firmwares are packed/scrambled, OP doesn’t help here
and that way cross-flashing (“overclocking”) is prevented.
There are at least three methods how overclocking-capabilities can
be retained:
I) You manually unpack/unscramble the exe-flasher incl. the .bin.
This can be really hard work.
II) You know someone who owns a real 832S (NOT …S@832S!).
He can use the original flasher (as it’s intended for his drive…),
extract the fw and send you the .bin afterwards. This .bin can
be “injected” in a flasher (.exe), which then can be run through
OmniPatcher.
(That’s perhaps the way the CodeGods aka CodeGuys took.)
III) You know someone living in .au who’s capable of checksumming
your EEPROM so that the (packed/scrambled) flasher-tool thinks
you’re having an 832S (instead of the old-fashioned 812S). 
You then can continue with the 2nd part of II) and let your
imaginations flow freely…
(II) is incorrect…
III) is also partially incorrect. Fixing the checksum only means that you don’t have to modify the firmware to allow crossflashing. Having your EEPROM fixed is something that you would do after your drive already has been upgraded to the newer models’ firmware. It has no effect on whether or not the flash tool will recognize your drive as acceptable for flashing.
@code65536, dhc014:
When trying to use the official flasher to do the 812-2-832-trick I
always get the no-matched-drive-detected-warning (and the flasher
quits without doin’ anything).
So I can’t 1st update the firmware and 2nd correct the EEPROM,
because it has to be the other way round. 
What am I missing?
Think I got it right now. Now I have my LED blinking… 
Thx. again.
Download officicial flasher. FlashFix. Flash. Dump. OmniPatch. Reflash. There, no need to download an unscrambled flasher.