Hey guys how should I identify a coaster in nerospeed? Is there a certain number of MAX PIE, MAX PIF, Jitter, and other values that needs to be reached for a dvd to be considered a coaster. Please advise.
Their is know absolute when it comes to this. The best method is to try and play the disc.
That aside, anything in the “red zone” is a pretty good indiciator of problems.
Here is a general set of guidlines (subjective–but most should agree) , A good inicator of a problem is PI higher than 280, PIE higher than 4 on a liteon (greater than 8 on benq 1620). If you get any PO’s, your in big trouble!!! With jitter, i look for less than 10% avg and less than 12% max. Also, run a transfer test and look for a smooth read.
they should make a program that runs the test and tells you exactly what’s what and if the results are good or bad. reading those tests is so confusing to me.
Then don’t look at them!!!
Burn your discs and put them in your standalone dvd player. If they work then consider them a good burn. If they don’t then consider it a bad burn.
I personally like scanning beter. You can have a burn that is marginal that will play (but there are no guarentees how long it will continue to play). You can even get marginal (but playable) burns often with princos. If you scan you can tell if it is marginal, good or exceptional.
what range should the total PIE and total PIF read?
what burner are you using for testing
What “should it read?”… Pi should be under 280 and pif depends an your drive and how it reports. Somewhere between 4 and 28 should be the limit (is it 28, 32 seems more logical). That is the point where statistaically, the disk has problems reading. A disk below this may be unreadable, and a disk above it may be readable. Thats just the grey area where stastically, fatal read problems occur (and those numbers are based on the standard I think).
There is a learning curve here and all of us have gotten stuck with some shit media. Expect a little of the same. Good media is not enough. You have to have a drive that likes the media and a firmware that suports it well. If you keep asking questions here and learn and read all that you can, you can way minamise coasters. There is no reason that you cannot be the same way that I am. Pi over 40 is a total shit burn. I have learned what media my drive likes, I have learned what is good media, and franklly, if it spikes up to 40, I am upset. I also hapen to have hundreds of disk that I know will not do that, because I have found what my drives like and bought shit loads of it. Find what your drive likes that you can get, and then buy more of it. The hard part is finding what your drive likes?
thanks for the detailed response ripit. I already know what the MAX PIE and PIF should be…but even though they are low doesnt the TOTAL PIE and PIF matter as well?
BTW…spryfly im using an nec3500 to burn and benq1620 to scan quality.
I have to agree with ripit. I was using Ritek/Ridata RicohJPN01 4x +R and was getting good KProbe Liteon results (total PI 12000, total PIF 1000), burned in my LG GSA-4163B. But when I got a “head’s up” from the bargin basement guys about Verbatims MCC003 8x +R, I decided to give them a try. BIG difference! Although total PI stayed about the same the total PIF droped down to the 50-150 range (with averages of 0.00). So both brands were good, but the machine really liked the MCC003’s.
All that said, you still can have a “coaster” even with great scans. I’ve had a few movie backups (good scans) with complex menus that play in the computer but not in my DVD player. So I sometimes have to reshrink and reburn and then it will work - go figure? I am now in the habit of first checking the scans with Kprobe and then if I’ve copied the entire disc (with menus etc.) I will pop it in my DVD player and just check the menus.
Yes and no. Obviouslly the lower the total pie/pif the beter but you can have a scan with very low totals that spikes up in one area and is therefore unreadable at that spot. Thats a coaster to me. The totals can give you an idea of how good the burn is overall but the peaks (the graphs) tell you if there are any problems areas. It’s very possible to have a burn that is very good through most of it with a spot or two that are really bad. Thats usally a firmware problem though some cheap media will have problems at the end of the burn.
This method works for me.
While that is a very good method, I don’t like it as an only method for two reasons. First, for instance, I want to transfer all my vhs to dvd and I do not want to have to watch every disk all the way through to check it. I also have lots of video on my computer that I want to burn and again, don’t want to have to watch every disk all the way through before I erase the files on my computer (trying to free up hard drive space).
The second reason is that playing it on a standalone player will not tell you if it is a marginal burn or an exceptional burn (thats why I don’t trust the user reports on videohelp.com). If it is marginal, it may play on your player but will it play in a year or will it play on a friends player (or another player if you get a new one for instance)? It also makes it hard to determine the best disks to use with your burner if you are new.
Personally, I think playing it in a standalone player is a very good test, when used in conjunction with scanning (thats what seems to suit my needs best anyway).
Just for the record…you do realize that I was being sarcastic when I originally said that?